MFT...DIY or buy??

[Stevebod]

Hi all, thinking about making an MF Table. Been doing a lot og googling and noted some people have had a go at making their own either with or without fancy jigs. I like the idea of a jig, but not much point in forking out £200 odd quid for a jig that will cost more than buying a top, (will not be heavy use so not expecting to have to re-make one every so often).

Just wondering if anybody here had made on, and what your experience has been regarding accuracy etc?

NB It will be mainly used for helping with assembly work rather than accurate track saw cutting as I have a mitre saw for that sort of thing..

Many thanks for any replies...

 

[Molynoox]

I don't see how a mitre saw can replace a track saw but anyway that's not your question so we can ignore that
I looked into this quite a bit and always planned on buying all the shiny gear to make my own. Then I saw the cost of the ready made CNC MFT tops and realised it makes more sense to just buy a ready made one. Could probably buy 4 or 5 tops before it became more expensive than the UJK parf shiny stuff. I'm a big fan of the UJK stuff, bit it's not the sensible choice I don't think. Unless you are making a lot of tops ... Or you just like shiny stuff like I do.

Martin

 

[Chief Sawdust Maker]

I brought a Parf 2 from Axminster around 18 months ago I am on my second top with it soon to be onto my third, its my main bench and gets used 7 days a week.
The Parf 2 is super accurate if you follow the instructions and take your time I have used mine for some alternative spacings to fit certain jobs
I also use it a lot to make small jigs and clamping aids. I also use it to make small almost throw away bench tops if I am working on site small piece of old ply or mdf few holes with The Parf and you have a useful track saw station or a means to produce square frames.
It it got stolen or damaged I would replace like for like straight away

 

[cinema_likeable0a]

For light use where you likely won’t need to replace it that often it makes more sense to just buy it ready-made.

CNC Design (link: Replacement Perforated Festool Type MFT /3-LP Top) will sell you one for £38 at the standard Festool size.

I just had a full 8x4 sheet done at my local friendly cnc shop.

 

[pe2dave]

A cost comparison should help make up your mind, as others say, modified by usage.
I bought two tops (occasional 8x4 cuts) and they'll see me out.

 

[pgrbff]

I would buy a top but here in Italy I can only find Festool, so I have had to buy a jig.

 

[rogxwhit]

I think you've answered your own question really. As long as you're happy with the standard top dimensions. I made mine with a bought-in top & a wooden frame with folding legs.

Using a jig may come into its own if you want non-standard top dimensions. I prefer those that use a router over those that use a drill.

For me their forte is work-holding with a variety of clamping methods whilst using power tools for routing, sanding and cutting domino slots. Assembly too if it fits the bill. What the common design is no good for is trad work where you may need a vice, chop mortices (thump thump) and do hand planing.

 

[pe2dave]

I think you've answered your own question really. As long as you're happy with the standard top dimensions. I made mine with a bought-in top & a wooden frame with folding legs.

Using a jig may come into its own if you want non-standard top dimensions. I prefer those that use a router over those that use a drill.

For me their forte is work-holding with a variety of clamping methods whilst using power tools for routing, sanding and cutting domino slots. Assembly too if it fits the bill. What the common design is no good for is trad work where you may need a vice, chop mortices (thump thump) and do hand planing.

I'd even challenge the 'non standard dimension' argument? It could still be cost effective to cut down or join two or more sheets, if care is taken with hole spacing? Glue and biscuits or (even cruder methods), unless it's going to be moved around a lot?

 

[Stevebod]

Hi all and many thanks for the advice...looks like purchasing a basic MFT top is the way to go for me...and no danger of doing any hand planing!!

 

[rogxwhit]

no danger of doing any hand planing!!

Shame on you!! ;-)

 

[Spectric]

I like the idea of a jig, but not much point in forking out £200 odd quid for a jig that will cost more than buying a top, (will not be heavy use so not expecting to have to re-make one every so often).

It is better if you can make your own because they do get damaged but also because you can also add aprons to a workbench as well and you may also find other uses. There are several methods out there but a new one from @petermillard is not far from landing which will use a router and also look at his video's where he compares the current offerings. There has also been a lot of discussion on these forums on this subject, I have used the Parf 2 and RS jig and in my opinion the router is the way to go. The Parf jig is great but I don't think drilling is the best way to go, yes it works but I find clamping the drilling jig gives better results.

 

[Recky33]

£38.00 is not going to break the bank, go and buy one and use it for a few months, find out what you can and can't do with it, if works out well you just saved a lot of wonga, biggest problem is you are going to want to buy a tracksaw to go with it and your mitre saw will only ever get used for angle cuts

 

[Stevebod]

..already have a track saw.....well an Aldi version of one anyway....

 

[Recky33]

..already have a track saw.....well an Aldi version of one anyway....

Well, go get a nice new blade for it and enjoy your self

 

[Spectric]

biggest problem is you are going to want to buy a tracksaw to go with it and your mitre saw will only ever get used for angle cuts

I still use my mitre saw on a regular basis, the tracksaw is only used for sheet goods and not heavier timber and if I could only have one then it would be the mitre saw.