Metabo BAS 318 - 1st Bandsaw

[JM83]

Hi folks, new member here. Stumbled across this forum when looking for reviews for bandsaws. Looks like a great place for info and advice so thought id sign up. 1st of all sorry if this is in the wrong section as Ive already bought the saw, so not really buying advice im after (for the moment at least).

I wanted something that could rip 6” boards, mill logs, try some bookmatching and turn scrap wood into material for small projects - so basically use it for anything and everything. I would have loved the Sabre 300/350 but way out of my price range ATM. A good offer came up on the Metabo BAS 318 at the weekend so I decided it was worth a punt to get me started and if everything goes well I will upgrade down the line.

I took delivery today and got the saw built fairly quick, the instructions werent the best but was pretty straight forward. I set the bearings and checked the tension etc expecting to have a battle on my hands getting the saw to cut straight but it was cutting way above my expectations in no time. I made a temporary sled for cross cutting some birch logs and it worked a treat (this was just out of scrap will make something better when I decide on a final design)

Overall Ive been very impressed considering the cost, but there are some bits that aren’t so great, like the guard mechanism seems clunky and cheap when raising or lowering the guard.

Some of the guides were a bit awkward to get set, and hard to get even with the guard in different positions.

The mitre guide doesnt look up to much but doubt i would use it much anyway.

The biggest issue though is the bed is high in the middle and about 2 or 3mm lower at either end. I cant find any other reports of this but from the picture can anyone recommend a solution, or should I be looking to have the bed exchanged? I know a bandsaw at this price point is entry level so I was prepared for some imperfection, but not sure what tolerances are deemed acceptable for the likes of that.

One last thing, if anyone can recommend what blades would be good for this bandsaw - I messaged Tuffsaws yesterday but not heard back yet, but from what ive read on here they seem to be highly recommended, so happy to go with them just not sure what would be suitable for this machine.


Picture not the best and the manky old level is I had to hand for trying to show the bed issue…

Would appreciate any input, and also if there are any worthwhile upgrades to think about.

Cheers folks.

 

[BradyS]

Hi folks, new member here. Stumbled across this forum when looking for reviews for bandsaws. Looks like a great place for info and advice so thought id sign up. 1st of all sorry if this is in the wrong section as Ive already bought the saw, so not really buying advice im after (for the moment at least).

I wanted something that could rip 6” boards, mill logs, try some bookmatching and turn scrap wood into material for small projects - so basically use it for anything and everything. I would have loved the Sabre 300/350 but way out of my price range ATM. A good offer came up on the Metabo BAS 318 at the weekend so I decided it was worth a punt to get me started and if everything goes well I will upgrade down the line.

I took delivery today and got the saw built fairly quick, the instructions werent the best but was pretty straight forward. I set the bearings and checked the tension etc expecting to have a battle on my hands getting the saw to cut straight but it was cutting way above my expectations in no time. I made a temporary sled for cross cutting some birch logs and it worked a treat (this was just out of scrap will make something better when I decide on a final design)

Overall Ive been very impressed considering the cost, but there are some bits that aren’t so great, like the guard mechanism seems clunky and cheap when raising or lowering the guard.

Some of the guides were a bit awkward to get set, and hard to get even with the guard in different positions.

The mitre guide doesnt look up to much but doubt i would use it much anyway.

The biggest issue though is the bed is high in the middle and about 2 or 3mm lower at either end. I cant find any other reports of this but from the picture can anyone recommend a solution, or should I be looking to have the bed exchanged? I know a bandsaw at this price point is entry level so I was prepared for some imperfection, but not sure what tolerances are deemed acceptable for the likes of that.

One last thing, if anyone can recommend what blades would be good for this bandsaw - I messaged Tuffsaws yesterday but not heard back yet, but from what ive read on here they seem to be highly recommended, so happy to go with them just not sure what would be suitable for this machine.


Picture not the best and the manky old level is I had to hand for trying to show the bed issue…
View attachment 145991


Would appreciate any input, and also if there are any worthwhile upgrades to think about.

Cheers folks.

Hi there. You probably got your reply from TuffSaws by now. They offer 2 blades they recommend for resawing, namely 5/8" x 3tpi Sabrecut and 1/2" x 3tpi M42 Bi-Metal. I just bought the bi-metal one and I would strongly recommend that for any hardwood resawing.

Further, you should call the customer support from where you bought the machine and get a table replacement. You paid for a defect-free machine and that is what you should get.

I too have a question: cand you give me some details on the adjustments you made to cut straight? And the amount of tension. It is my first average sized bandsaw as well and so far I didn't manage to get a perfect straigth cut. I get thinner cuts at the beginning and end of the boards. And I don't think it's operator error because no matter what I do, at one point or the other the blade touches either one of the bearings and I get lots of friction. If I put too much space between blade and bearings, that would defeat the purpose. I'm a little confused by the adjustments required by this particular machine and I'd appreciate advice from somebody who actually has this bandsaw and uses it.

Thank you

 

[Cordy]

JM83@
Hi, I have the same bandsaw, made a 'temporary' sled about 4 years ago -- still going strong,
it's quite easy to make circle jig too !!

The blades we tend to buy for being reliable and decent value are
Axi and Tuffs

 

[galleywood]

I have the BAS 316 - this is my method to get a straight cut (i.e parallel to the fence).

1. Align the fence to the mitre slot - this is so that :-
a. You will be able to use the mitre slot for square cross cuts.
b. The mitre slot becomes a fixed reference if the fence gets bumped/moved.

2. Adjust the tracking to achieve a parallel cut - a steel rule and strong small magnet can be used to align, the part of the blade that is behing the cutting teeth, to the face of the fence. You could purchase a 'bandsaw buddy' for this.
You may need to slacken the table fixing bolts to be able to rotate the table slightly to achieve this.

Try this and let me know if you need any pics.

 

[BradyS]

I have the BAS 316 - this is my method to get a straight cut (i.e parallel to the fence).

1. Align the fence to the mitre slot - this is so that :-
a. You will be able to use the mitre slot for square cross cuts.
b. The mitre slot becomes a fixed reference if the fence gets bumped/moved.

2. Adjust the tracking to achieve a parallel cut - a steel rule and strong small magnet can be used to align, the part of the blade that is behing the cutting teeth, to the face of the fence. You could purchase a 'bandsaw buddy' for this.
You may need to slacken the table fixing bolts to be able to rotate the table slightly to achieve this.

Try this and let me know if you need any pics.

While doing the tracking and attempting to align the blade to the fence, I noticed that the fence jumps out of alignment after securing it in position. After tightening its lever it moves a few degrees sideways. Do you know if it can be adjusted or should I find a replacement?

 

[galleywood]

I no longer have the standard fence - I changed it for a home made one following Steve Maskery's design.
I incorporated his 'micro adjustment' system too.
Both have prooved to be very good.

 

[BradyS]

I no longer have the standard fence - I changed it for a home made one following Steve Maskery's design.
I incorporated his 'micro adjustment' system too.
Both have prooved to be very good.

Thanks a lot for the info, didn't know about his design. I'll buy his Workshop Essentials Volume 4 to get the plans and try it myself.

 

[BradyS]

NEWSFLASH: I found out that the fence of the Metabo BAS 318 (and, therefore, probably of the BAS 261 and Makita LB1200F) CAN be adjusted. I can make a new thread in this regard if any of you need this info, just pm me please.