MDF fixing suggestions for assembly of unit.

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wwade

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In the past, I have constructed all of my projects out of softwood pine. I'm now looking to make a floor to ceiling cupboard with sliding doors for the small bedroom out of MDF.

As I don't have any workspace at my house, the unit will be constructed in my mum's Garage where I do all my other projects. When complete it will be transported to my house flatpack, where I will finally assemble it.

My question is around fixings. I thought about using threaded inserts to join the boards, but I don't think they would work with MDF. I was wondering what other fixings you could suggest.
 

AndyT

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Have a look at member Peter Millard on YouTube. He builds MDF units and installs them at customer sites. He's also made a lot of good detailed videos showing exactly how he gets round your problem and many others.
 

toolsntat

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If truly floor to ceiling have you considered how to get it into position in the room.
The diagonals of the unit will be greater than the height of the ceiling.
Cheers Andy
 

wwade

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toolsntat":6g704wy3 said:
If truly floor to ceiling have you considered how to get it into position in the room.
The diagonals of the unit will be greater than the height of the ceiling.
Cheers Andy
Good point, I didn't even think of that. Probably better to take 50 - 100mm off the top and then add some decoration to cover the gap.
 

wwade

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AndyT":1ktdvfbj said:
Have a look at member Peter Millard on YouTube. He builds MDF units and installs them at customer sites. He's also made a lot of good detailed videos showing exactly how he gets round your problem and many others.
Thank you for the tips, will take a look.
 

TheTiddles

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Cross dowels work well (but are ugly)
Barrel bolts can join flats together.
Housing joints with screws to pull them in tight work lovely, if you can hide the screws that’s great.
All those things are cheap from Screwfix etc...
A bit of planning around design makes all the difference in these jobs. You want to dry assemble then move it and just scribe to fit when you’re there, not start redesigning and adjusting
Aidan
 

Nelsun

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Don't forget the dirty little pocket screw. Nobody likes them but they work well, are quick and easy and can be hidden away in a lot of cases.
 

wwade

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Decided to go down the softwood pine route and ditch the idea of using MDF. It's going to take a lot more time making the panels, but that's what I know and enjoy.

I will be left with a piece of furniture that will last for years.

I'm not a master furniture maker, but this was my last project. Made some terrible mistakes in the past, but you learn more on every piece you make. That reminds me, I need a cable tidy

 

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Steve Maskery

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Pocket screws are a good way of building big cabinets that have to be transported flatpack. I've recently finished a (freestanding) wardrobe. None of the screws are visible. The video of it is here:
[youtube]4nhhskKKPB4[/youtube]
 

wwade

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Doug71":3qktl8xc said:
wwade":3qktl8xc said:
Made some terrible mistakes in the past
You might want to check out some videos on how to fit flush hinges :wink:
I tried, but I made such a bloody mess of it lol. In the end I just wanted to get the project finished, that was the solution.
 

wwade

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Steve Maskery":372ruc4m said:
Pocket screws are a good way of building big cabinets that have to be transported flatpack. I've recently finished a (freestanding) wardrobe. None of the screws are visible. The video of it is here:
[youtube]4nhhskKKPB4[/youtube]
I watched the video and got some great tips, so thank you. Never considered doing pocket screws before, but I might give that a go. Like you point out, it doesn't matter if you are not going to see the hole.

I also like the solution when drilling holes for the shelfs pins. In the past I have measured, a jig like this will save so much time.
 
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