Making your own tools

[NazNomad]

Not much really, I'm from Essex. I just live here. :-D

 

[Sawdust=manglitter]

Ah... my bad Naz!! Haha (Didnt spot your signature )

 

[Sawdust=manglitter]

6mm isn't very thick for a bowl scraper. The last one I bought was 1 1/2" x 3/8". It was quite expensive but you get very little vibration with it.

Yeah, i do actually have a smaller one already which is 6mm thick and i dont find it too bad (its only a 9" max bowl diamer capacity on my lathe) so thought it was worth a try for a tenner compared to buying one for £70-odd.

 

[graduate_owner]

Hey there Naz,
Tregaron is only 20 miles fom us here in Caio, although I will admit we are just about due south from you so I expect I am indeed a southerner by comparison. As it happens, Carmel is also about 20 miles almost due south from us.

K

 

[WoodMangler]

Tregaron is only 20 miles fom us here in Caio, although I will admit we are just about due south from you so I expect I am indeed a southerner by comparison. As it happens, Carmel is also about 20 miles almost due south from us.

It's a small world -Tregaron is only about 6 miles east of me..

 

[Sawdust=manglitter]

You can save a lot of time grinding down to this shape by cutting off what you don't need using an angle grinder with a thin metal cutting disc. Assuming you have an angle grinder

I did think about doing that, but i was concerned that it would heat up too much and mess with the heat treatment of the steel?

 

[NazNomad]

Finally got my 3mm tap and finished this ...

25½'' overall, 14'' sticking out of the handle.

10mm carbide cutter from Fleabay seller 733gtfly, who was very patient and helpful despite my stupid questions about the screw sizes.

I find it's a bit aggressive unless I turn it to about 45 degrees, but that is most likely down to my own inexperience.

All in all, I'm a happy bunny.

p.s., I left that bowl a bit thick due to the almighty crack in it ... Don't need to lose another window yet. :-D

 

[NazNomad]

.. and I knocked this up too.

 

[Claymore]

pardon my ignorance Naz but is it for sharpening? also why do the chisels need to be so long? is it for better leverage while turning big stuff?

 

[Robbo3]

pardon my ignorance Naz but is it for sharpening? also why do the chisels need to be so long? is it for better leverage while turning big stuff?

Yes, it's a gouge sharpening jig. If we put a gouge on a flat rest, tilted to the correct angle, & rolled the gouge from side to side we would get a conventional, straight across grind similar to that on a spindle roughing gouge. To grind the wings, the handle has to be swung in an arc as the gouge is rolled - & that is what the jig does.

The reason for the long carbide tool is because the further the tool protrudes over the tool rest, the greater the (potential) force on the cutter. The length serves as a counter the leverage as you said.

@Naz
Looks like you used Marius Hornberger's plans for the jig.

What diameter bar did you use for the carbide tool? It looks to be about 13mm. If I were going to have the full length hanging over the toolrest I think I would want it to be at least 16mm or 19mm thick - as shown in the photo that I posted earlier in this thread.

 

[NazNomad]

Yep, they were the plans from Marius, and it works perfectly.

I honestly have no idea what size bar I used, it was just a piece I salvaged from something.

I'll never use it deeper than about 6'', I just wanted to make it to see if I could.

I just realised I need to put an 'index' dot on the handle for when I can't see the cutter head angle.

 

[duncanh]

You can save a lot of time grinding down to this shape by cutting off what you don't need using an angle grinder with a thin metal cutting disc. Assuming you have an angle grinder

I did think about doing that, but i was concerned that it would heat up too much and mess with the heat treatment of the steel?

It's never affected any of the cutting tips I've done it for. If you're worried about heat then cut for a short period and then let it cool. Apparently HSS can be heated to a red glow without any ill effect so if that's all you get then keep cutting. Even with regular breaks using a thin cutting wheel I think it'll be faster than grinding all the material away. The cutting wheel must be thin though - I think mine about around 1mm

 

[chipmunk]

Dremel cut-off wheels are even thinner and so cut HSS cooler.

If you buy your HSS as metal lathe tooling it is a lot cheaper and often you can get more exotic HSS with Cobalt at 5% (M35) or even 8% (M42) which is better IMHO for scrapers than plain old M2.

To cut off a short piece you just have to cut a shallow groove and then snap off the piece of HSS (eye protection + vice + hammer).

HTH
Jon

 

[woodpig]

Finally got my 3mm tap and finished this ...


25½'' overall, 14'' sticking out of the handle.

10mm carbide cutter from Fleabay seller 733gtfly, who was very patient and helpful despite my stupid questions about the screw sizes.

I find it's a bit aggressive unless I turn it to about 45 degrees, but that is most likely down to my own inexperience.

All in all, I'm a happy bunny.

p.s., I left that bowl a bit thick due to the almighty crack in it ... Don't need to lose another window yet. :-D

Nice job, the bowl turned out well too.

Surprised you needed a 3mm screw as I've been using 4mm screws on my 10mm insert tools. No surprise about the 45° angle, they tend to dig in otherwise. The last 10mm tool I made had a 45° angle built in.

 

[NazNomad]

Surprised you needed a 3mm screw as I've been using 4mm screws on my 10mm insert tools.

The seller makes and sells complete tools. He supplies (and uses) 4mm screws with a 12mm bit and 3mm screws with a 10mm bit, he said from his experience the 3mm fit better. I bowed to his experience. I can always increase to 4mm if need be.

 

[steadyeddie]

I've a set of hollowing tools from George Watkins (fromthetree) and I have to say they are quite easy to get on with once you get used to them.

Dave

 

[woodpig]

The seller makes and sells complete tools. He supplies (and uses) 4mm screws with a 12mm bit and 3mm screws with a 10mm bit, he said from his experience the 3mm fit better. I bowed to his experience. I can always increase to 4mm if need be.

Ah, I know why. He probably uses Pozidrive screws which have fairly large heads. I use Torx screws whenever possible, like the ones they use on metal work inserts.

 

[NazNomad]

Yes, they are Pozidrive screws.

 

[katellwood]

Done this today,









going to change the hold down screw when I find a nice piece of brass but until then the wing nut and locking nut will do. works perfectly though

 

[CHJ]

Always another level of satisfaction when you have constructed your own bit of kit, it balances the books a little on previous kit purchases, allows the setting of your own variations of a theme and best of all provides another level of justified smugness when using it.