Making wardrobe doors

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Gt4

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Hi all, I have a question about the best, or most practical, way of making wardrobe doors. They will measure 2400 x 500 each so will be pretty big. I've already made the carcass out of 18mm thick mdf (the regular stuff not moisture resistant) and am struggling a bit with the best way to make the doors.

Initially I just planned to get some 12mm mdf, and then glue some edging strips around, to give 24mm thickness around the edges. But then I read that the best method would be to cut separate stiles out of 24mm Mr mdf, cut a channel down the edges and then drop a 6mm panel into this groove. Thing is, to cut this groove I'd need a router table wouldn't I? Is there another way to do it without buying a router table? I do have a router, but don't have the room for a table. Are there any alternatives?

Cheers
 
If you've got a router, you've got a fence for it, right? I would use that and just run the groove down the MDF. If you don't have a fence you could always screw a piece of wood to your router to make one.
 
I would use trade mdf if it was 25mm it's a bit lighter. I'd also use 9mm panels and rout the end of the rails as well. This will allow you to join them using loose tenons cut from the 9mm mdf(you could use 6mm tbf)
25mm mrmdf isn't that common but 25mm trade is available from.....b andpoo
 
Cheers for the replies. Steve that looks perfect, I'll get one of those asap.

Johnny - if I go down th3 regular mdf route, do you think I could get away with gliding two 12mm panels together to get 24mm thickness? I have a few spare sheets
 
I've built up big mouldings sticking 25mm mdf together. I used titebond cold veneer glue and plenty of clamps.
 
Doesn't sound like you are going to do this but be very wary about using 12mm mdf and planting timber on to create a mock panel effect as the unequal forces will cause the door bow along that length.
 
Peter Millard has some excellent videos on making MDF panel doors on his YouTube channel. He uses a similar slotter to the one Steve suggests (in a router table setup), but I think it's a Wealden one.

You can also use some biscuit jointers for the same task - it's a 4mm cutter, so two passes are necessary, and (on my Makita) you need to remove the gripper strip (so the stock can slide), and alter the depth setting. The cut quality is good though, and obviously you can do the same thing on a tablesaw, but it will take more passes and the blade is unguarded.

Having recently switched to MRMDF (Medite), I wouldn't go back to using ordinary MDF: the finish quality is so much better.
 
I've had good results using 18mm MDF frame and 6mm panels for a couple of kitchen doors I've made. I've got 4 sets of inbuilt cupboards that have the original shonky thin ply covered doors to re-do and I'll definitely be doing them in the same way.
 
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