Making side hung barn doors - any advice?

[focusonwood]

Hi All,

As part of my on-going workshop build (converting single garage into a workable workshop), I need to replace the rotten side hung doors.

I was contemplating doing it myself once I've built up some woodworking skills, but I'm concerned that the drafty and rotten state of the existing doors are a security risk and mean that the workshop isn't particularly sealed from the elements.

So, I spoke to a garage door company and wooden doors are $$$$, but metal doors probably aren't good at keeping out the elements...although I could insulate them.

Now I'm wondering if I could make some side hung barn doors myself...it would be a challenge as the projects I've completed so far (bench and firewood store) have involved functional pocket hole joinery rather than anything challenging.

Now I think I've found a local cedar supplier, and I could probably make a door using tenons for the frame and t&g panelling, but I would prefer to follow some kind of plan.

Does anyone have any advice, or know of any plans that I could take a look at online?

I'll try to create a rough sketch of when I've got in mind tonight.

Cheers,

Graham.

 

[RobinBHM]

The easiest and strongest doors for barns are a through mortise and tenoned construction, with notched in braces and then clad the whole of the outside face in T&G. A Plywood face on the inside, would make it really stiff and strong.

The best hinges are heavy duty reversible hinges.

Decide on the hinges first, then set out the top and bottom rails accordingly. I usually set the bottom rail up a bit from the bottom of the stile, and the top rail down a bit from the top of the door stiles. It make the joints stronger and allows the hinges to be mounted onto the rails, but be set at the correct height. The T&G needs to be at the height of the stiles, ie run past the top and bottom rails.

I always think it looks horrible when hinges are right at the top and bottom.

Dont forget that these hinges need a quite thick frame as the cups are about 65-7-mm wide from memory.

Hinges 2/3rds the width of the door leaf, although look a bit big, will help with supporting the door long term.

 

[Sailormantom]

Also consider putting windows at eye level. Helps with spotting delivery drivers when its too cold to keep the doors open.
When I made doors for a similar garage at my previous house I made one about ⅓ width and the other ⅔ width as it made access easier (And I could stack stuff against the inside of the larger door without it falling out every time I wanted to get in or out - space for keeping stuff is always at a premium in a small garage!)

Cheers, Tom

 

[AJB Temple]

Pay attention to the weight. I have made and hung barn doors for actual barns. Big doors can be surprisingly heavy so make sure that whatever structure you are hanging them off can take the weight if the ones you are making are beefier than what is there now. If you are keen on security it might be worth building some metal framing into your design either in a core or on the inside. This will also help with rigidity and sag elimination.

 

[focusonwood]

Thanks for the advice...I actually think I might give it a go.

I was a bit concerned with weight, but the existing doors are pretty solid and as they're rotten in places they're probably carrying a fair bit of water weight.

The design mentioned by Robin was what I was thinking about after looking at plans and doors online. Although I was trying to think of a way that the structure could be seen from the outside so that I can admire my handiwork, but perhaps I should focus on function over form!

Regarding wood options...redwood or pine is easier to get and cheaper, but after a bit of research I'm thinking that cedar would be a better option.

 

[RobinBHM]

Softwood would probably be fine for stiles and rails of the doors, western red cedar could be used for the cladding.

Cedar is a bit soft for door construction, probably douglas fir, siberian larch, iroko would be a better option and similar in price to cedar.

 

[dzj]

If $$$$ is an issue, then perhaps the metal insulated doors might not be a bad idea.
(Good advice above about the wooden ones.)

 

[graduate_owner]

If you are looking to save money then perhaps a metal door would be the way to go. If you can get a second hand one then you really could save. If you can't get the exact size then get one too small and use your woodworking skills to build up a suitable sub frame. I managed to buy a double width door, about 15 ft wide, for £35 from eBay, I couldn't believe it when I had it for first bid. You could always build wooden barn doors later on as time / finances / skills etc allow.

Do make sure though that you don't rely on the basic garage door lock because they don't offer much security. If you have a separate entrance then it's easy to padlock the door to a bracket bolted to the floor, otherwise get one of those security locks that fit on the outside - a bit of a pain every time you need to open the door but I've read a few posts here about members' workshops being raided.

K

 

[mindthatwhatouch]

The easiest and strongest doors for barns are a through mortise and tenoned construction, with notched in braces and then clad the whole of the outside face in T&G. A Plywood face on the inside, would make it really stiff and strong.

The best hinges are heavy duty reversible hinges.

Decide on the hinges first, then set out the top and bottom rails accordingly. I usually set the bottom rail up a bit from the bottom of the stile, and the top rail down a bit from the top of the door stiles. It make the joints stronger and allows the hinges to be mounted onto the rails, but be set at the correct height. The T&G needs to be at the height of the stiles, ie run past the top and bottom rails.

I always think it looks horrible when hinges are right at the top and bottom.

Dont forget that these hinges need a quite thick frame as the cups are about 65-7-mm wide from memory.

Hinges 2/3rds the width of the door leaf, although look a bit big, will help with supporting the door long term.

That's good advice, otherwise you will get it wrong, like I just have and now trying to find a work around. Still live and learn. If you can cut a tenon and a mortise give it a go.
Newbie door making, bottom of page 5 https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/yep-it-s-another-workshop-design-questions-t84326.html though i went for ply panels rather cladding.
Good luck