Lurem Spindle Moulder

[toolsntat]

Anyone else on here own one of these?
Cheers
Andy

 

[dickm]

Not got the standalone SM, but there is a spindle on my combination machine, which dates I guess from the late 60s; its a C300, not the later and more common C310B.
Don't know much about it other than what is obvious from looking and have never used it, as a MOF177 in table has so far done all that's needed in that area.

 

[toolsntat]

Thanks Dick, hope you are well.
Yes the stand alone is the one I'm talking about.
As it is I have the 210B machine and the spindle on that does a lovely job.
As for the other I realised I made enquiries before and found this thread
lurem-junior-spindle-moulder-t36979.html?hilit=%20Lurem
And the manual for the t30n is here
http://lurem.gandi.ws/notices
Would still like to find another owner though.
Cheers
Andy

 

[Misterdog]

Anyone else on here own one of these?

Me.
I have a Lurem T45 three phase.
Very nice machine actually, I bought it as part of a job lot though had never heard of Lurem before. It ended up being my favourite. The Multico tenoner being second.

I'll add some photos later.

 

[Doug B]

MrEd formally of this parish owns one, I’m working for him tomorrow if there’s a question you want asking Andy?

 

[Kidneycutter]

I've got a single phase one don't know the model.

 

[Misterdog]

Did Lurem also make buses ?

No replies for 3 years then they all turn up.

 

[toolsntat]

Misterdog , (Mr Ed) and Kidneycutter thanks for the replies.
The key thing I'm after is a clear understanding of how your motor and pulley assembly is configured.
On my machine the motor and shaft is to all intent removable and leaves the pulley in place.
The motor shaft has a key and keyway which drops out when removed. Someone did put a small grubscrew in it but it snapped.
There is a threaded hole up the shaft but nothing there to hold the key.
An instruction manual or definitive notes/pictures would help me get this little beauty working again.
Cheers Andy

 

[Misterdog]

Woodruff key required, though there are loads of different sizes.
The screw - fix may have chewed up the slot, though this can be fixed with a file.
If the key is loose a blob of grease will hold it in place until the pulley is on.

Metric Woodruff Key Assorted Keys Set Size Range 2mm to 3mm Din 6888 Freepost | eBay

I have a manual for the T 45 though it is as useful as a modern Haynes manual.

I'll post a pic.

This is mine, is yours similar. If so I have a drawing from the manual.
Is it the motor pulley or the shaft pulley that is the problem ?

 

[toolsntat]

Woodruff key required, though there are loads of different sizes.
The screw - fix may have chewed up the slot, though this can be fixed with a file.
If the key is loose a blob of grease will hold it in place until the pulley is on.

Metric Woodruff Key Assorted Keys Set Size Range 2mm to 3mm Din 6888 Freepost | eBay

I have a manual for the T 45 though it is as useful as a modern Haynes manual.

I'll post a pic.

This is mine, is yours similar. If so I have a drawing from the manual.
Is it the motor pulley or the shaft pulley that is the problem ?

Thanks, alas yes, definitely a smaller one.
The way you describe keeping the key in position fails in this instance as it is designed to lift out (and I guess used on another machine) and leaves the pulley behind.
Tis the motor pulley.
Cheers Andy

 

[Misterdog]

Can you get any images ?

 

[toolsntat]

Can you get any images ?

OK let's see....

 

[Myfordman]

"pedant alert"! That set up needs a parallel key not a woodruff key. the latter are the half moon style

 

[toolsntat]

"pedant alert"! That set up needs a parallel key not a woodruff key. the latter are the half moon style

Thanks for clarification Bob.
In my theory of using this the parallel key needs to stay captive on the shaft.
But how? Its obvious a bolt has been used end on but unless it has some locking it has the ability to drop out.
I should add that the pulley is free floating and not clamped to the shaft.
Cheers Andy

 

[Myfordman]

Thanks for clarification Bob.
In my theory of using this the parallel key needs to stay captive on the shaft.
But how? Its obvious a bolt has been used end on but unless it has some locking it has the ability to drop out.
I should add that the pulley is free floating and not clamped to the shaft.
Cheers Andy

Keys should be a "honeymoon" fit as any play will allow the key and keyways to fret and wear. I've either seen a grubscrew use to secure or a large washer and bolt threaded into the end of the shaft. Way back keys were wedged and had a tang to help remove them when needed.

For a floating scheme i'd possible loctite the key into the motor shaft and devise a way to limit the travel of the sliding pulley in both directions so that virtually no part of the key can be exposed in use. The last thing you want is a key flying out in use.

 

[toolsntat]

Just bringing this up again to see if anyone might be able to help please.
Cheers, Andy

 

[toolsntat]

I'm still trying to find the answer to how I can stop the key dropping out of the keyway of this assembly ?
I believe this was a system of various stand alone Lurem machines that would share the same motor.
By operating the two cam locking levers the motor and switchgear lifts away leaving the pulley hooked up with the drive belt.
This is a different arrangement to what is shown in the later manuals.
Be great to see another spindle moulder or one of the other stand alone machines using the same arrangement.
Cheers, Andy

 

[toolsntat]

Just highlighting this again in case you are able to help.
Cheers, Andy

 

[Leosmad]

I have both the junior band saw and the planer thicknesser, which the drive pully wheel has just broken. What idiot designed this in plastic
I refurbished the planer, but never got around to the bandsaw though it does work fine. Planer is ok but thicknesser is out of action just when I need it lol.
Got it cheap as capacitor had gone and seller didn’t know why it wasn’t working.
Not sure what the chuck on the side that took the tip of my finger off yesterday is for though?
A clever idea, swapping the motor etc
[email protected]

 

[toolsntat]

I have both the junior band saw and the planer thicknesser, which the drive pully wheel has just broken. What silly person designed this in plastic
I refurbished the planer, but never got around to the bandsaw though it does work fine. Planer is ok but thicknesser is out of action just when I need it lol.
Got it cheap as capacitor had gone and seller didn’t know why it wasn’t working.
Not sure what the chuck on the side that took the tip of my finger off yesterday is for though?
A clever idea, swapping the motor etc
[email protected]

Thank you for bringing this up.
So from the sound of it you have the one motor multiple machine set up.
If this is the case might I please trouble you for some details of the motor to machine connection in particular the motor shaft assembly.
Sorry to hear about your finger incident.
Cheers, Andy