Looking for a good UK plunge/table router

UKworkshop.co.uk

Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

phario

Member
Joined
30 Oct 2022
Messages
5
Reaction score
1
Location
Near Bristol
The standard recommendation for routers around the internet is the Bosch 1617EVS with 2.25hp. Unfortunately, this does not seem available in the UK (and I couldn’t find any that were of a similar model).

I’m looking to use the router for cabinetry. I am limited on space but hope it can be used table mounted most of the time but used freehand the rest of the time.

I’m an amateur getting into DIY cabinetry for our house. So for instance I'm looking at doing nice edges and also things like tenons for shaker-style doors.

Price range is probably sub £350 and preferably around £250, though I can exceed if there are great reasons to.

I’ve heard that Triton is a good brand. The [TRA001] is about £315 but people complain it is too heavy for free hand use. The weaker [TJOF001] is less than £130 but I have concerns it is too weak for a table-mounted usage.
 
I have the Triton MOF001 which is right in the middle between the two you linked. You have to buy the 1/2 inch collet seperately, but it's a really nice router. I use it primarily in a table, but when I've needed it handheld it feels a sensible size. Seems to have plenty of power but I've not tried anything big like a panel raising bit on it yet.
 
I have the Triton MOF001 which is right in the middle between the two you linked. You have to buy the 1/2 inch collet seperately, but it's a really nice router. I use it primarily in a table, but when I've needed it handheld it feels a sensible size. Seems to have plenty of power but I've not tried anything big like a panel raising bit on it yet.
Hi!

Thanks!

I ended up getting that same model on your recommendation. Would you have time for two questions?

Can you let me know if your plunge mechanism is not completely smooth? Mine sort of requires a second push about halfway down the spring. I removed the spring and it’s completely smooth which makes me think it’s normal behaviour on a plunge router just due to long springs.

Also can you let me know what kind of table you use and the setup?
 
Can you let me know if your plunge mechanism is not completely smooth? Mine sort of requires a second push about halfway down the spring. I removed the spring and it’s completely smooth which makes me think it’s normal behaviour on a plunge router just due to long springs.
Before installing my MOF001 into a table I used it hand held for a few years (with the spring installed) and do not believe I had experienced what you described.
Try lubricating router columns with dry ptfe spray.
My other triton (TRA001 bought second hand) did have very stiff plunging originally, but dry ptfe spray fixed it.

on a second thought - maybe I never noticed that "half way" issue with MOF001 because I always used its rotating knob to change depth and never changed height with rack and pinion disengaged. Either way - dry PTFE spray would still be my recommendation as a maintenance precaution - these Tritons are notorious for broken plastic gear in the height change mechanism.
 
I’m looking to use the router for cabinetry. I am limited on space but hope it can be used table mounted most of the time but used freehand the rest of the time.
Not the easiest way, often better just to stick a big old Triton router in the table and forget it then get a better router for handheld use, the old Dewalt 625 with a pair of fences meets most needs. You say space is an issue, it is for many of us so rather than a dedicated router table have you thought of having the router in the top of a workbench. The Triton is Ok and I am still using the TRA001 in Jessem Prestige lift but you might just be starting out on an expensive journey of itteration because unless you are 100% happy then you will upgrade over time as needs change. My biggest issues with the Triton were the inbuilt lift mechanism and the undertable knob needed to get to a rough height, people recomend only using the above table winder for final adjustment because it has plastic gears and does not like being overworked. My Triton is also now heavily modified and fitted with a muscle chuck so the inbuilt shaft locking mechanism has been removed to give maximum height in the table. In hindsight I ran up the wrong path, totally overlooked spindle moulders and taken in by all the blurb about router tables, if you want to see an example of what can be achieved then do a search for @MikeK 's router table build and this is where you could end up, much cheaper to just do it once rather than go through several stages of expense getting there. For me building a new table I would now be looking at Jessem / Incra lifts with just a motor like the AUK 2400 watt version and forget the old idea of using a plunge router, much better I believe to have the router clamped round the waist than hanging by it's nose.
 
In hindsight I ran up the wrong path, totally overlooked spindle moulders and taken in by all the blurb about router tables, if you want to see an example of what can be achieved then do a search for @MikeK 's router table build and this is where you could end up, much cheaper to just do it once rather than go through several stages of expense getting there. For me building a new table I would now be looking at Jessem / Incra lifts with just a motor like the AUK 2400 watt version and forget the old idea of using a plunge router, much better I believe to have the router clamped round the waist than hanging by it's nose.

I will create a thread here, but in the interim, here is my router table build thread on the Festool Owners Group:

https://www.festoolownersgroup.com/member-projects/router-table-63522/
As with Roy's experience, my journey was expensive and took much more time that was necessary. However, in my defense, I live in an area that is mostly a hobbyist vacuum with few, if any, English speaking colleagues to visit and share experiences. In the past two years, the router table I made has met every task I've thrown at it and not once have I thought "I wish I had a spindle moulder for this job"...not once...yet.

Last summer, I helped a friend make 14 raised panel doors and 9 or 10 matching drawer fronts from cherry stock for his kitchen cabinet facelift. In exchange for my help and the use of my shop, he gave me the Freud 3-piece cabinet door set. The rail and stile cutters, and three-inch raised panel cutter, worked great in the AUKTools 2400W motor and Incra lift.

We made the rail and stile cuts in one pass, but made two passes on the raised panel cutter. A spindle moulder would have easy handled the panels with one pass, but we had plenty of time for two passes. If I was going to make hundreds of raised panel doors, lots of intricate trim work, I would definitely buy a small spindle moulder and appropriate cutters, but for now my router table meets my requirements.

There's nothing wrong with building your own router table, but do your research first before buying anything. If someone had told me this three years ago, I would have saved a lot of money and time.

Here's a project thread by @weirdbeardmt from the Channel Islands. He built his router table for the Triton TRA001 and UJK router plate.

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/threads/my-homemade-router-table.126434/
 
Here's a video where Dennis compares the AEG motor in an Incra Mast-R-Lift II and the Triton TRA001 in an Incra plate. This was nearly identical to my final choice. One of his Dutch viewers bought my unused Triton router and Incra plate.

 
I think this is one of those journeys where you need to look at the destination before setting off, all to easy to follow the blurb and marketing to spend on a setup that you later upgrade and maybe do this several times, knowing what can be done and setting your objective at the right point just saves money. I think your point about spindles is spot on, a router can do most of the spindles task but just takes more passes and more time, the only thing it really does sound great for is that you can make custom cutters and it can handle greater thicknesses of wood where I find the max on a table is about 70 - 75 mm with a trim cutter.
 
Here is a photo of the Freud 3.5-inch 99-520 panel cutter in the table. This is the largest cutter I can fit and still have the ability to change the cutter height with part of the cutter below the table surface. I would not have been able to use this if I couldn't slow the spindle speed to its lowest setting of about 10,000 RPM, which is about the upper limit of most spindle moulders.

Freud-Panel-Cutter-a.jpg
 
I rarely use it as a plunge router in all honesty, it's just not something I often have a need for. Using the rack and pinion adjuster it's totally smooth for handheld or table use. I'll have a play with plunging it in a couple of days when I'm home and get back to you.

My router table is a pretty basic cobbled together thingy, basically the router is screwed to a piece of 6mm ply which is itself rebated into an 18mm ply top. No fancy doodads and thingymabobs for precision adjustments, I'm perfectly happy adjusting the fence by eye, doing a test cut and then nudging the fence one way or another.
I would quite like an adjustable opening on the fence for better support on certain cuts, so I see myself making a new fence in the future. But I enjoy tinkering on that sort of thing so I'd never consider it time wasted, even if I did end up with a posh jessem or similar one day 😂
 
Before installing my MOF001 into a table I used it hand held for a few years (with the spring installed) and do not believe I had experienced what you described.
Try lubricating router columns with dry ptfe spray.
My other triton (TRA001 bought second hand) did have very stiff plunging originally, but dry ptfe spray fixed it.

on a second thought - maybe I never noticed that "half way" issue with MOF001 because I always used its rotating knob to change depth and never changed height with rack and pinion disengaged. Either way - dry PTFE spray would still be my recommendation as a maintenance precaution - these Tritons are notorious for broken plastic gear in the height change mechanism.

I rarely use it as a plunge router in all honesty, it's just not something I often have a need for. Using the rack and pinion adjuster it's totally smooth for handheld or table use. I'll have a play with plunging it in a couple of days when I'm home and get back to you.

My router table is a pretty basic cobbled together thingy, basically the router is screwed to a piece of 6mm ply which is itself rebated into an 18mm ply top. No fancy doodads and thingymabobs for precision adjustments, I'm perfectly happy adjusting the fence by eye, doing a test cut and then nudging the fence one way or another.
I would quite like an adjustable opening on the fence for better support on certain cuts, so I see myself making a new fence in the future. But I enjoy tinkering on that sort of thing so I'd never consider it time wasted, even if I did end up with a posh jessem or similar one day 😂

I realised why the plunge mechanism is wonky (on the MOF001). It's to do with the asymmetric rack and pinion system. Basically, if I push down almost entirely with my right hand (the side of the spring), it goes down smoothly. If I push down entirely with my left hand, it is entirely stuck.

When pushing down with both hands, I definitely have to push more with the right. Or I have to push at a specific 'angle'.

I am curious if others have noticed this. I am not sure if this is defect of my particular router or if it's just the consequence of the asymmetric design. Looking at other plunge routers, some of the ones I've seen use two springs on either side...not one.
 
Going back to @ Phario's original post and query. The point about the end destination, i.e. what you want/need to be able to do, and as important, what your budget/affordability is is very valid. This will ultimately drive the decision making process.
I would advise to taking your time and hence avoid if you can the issues mentioned by members here about stages of expense and upgrades which may be wasteful. You indicted that your budget was circa £250-£350 for the router. Do you have a budget in mind for the router table/workbench, router insert/lift etc? this may influence your decision.
In my case I have been pondering what I should do wrt to my router set up for a good few months, and been attentive to the advice and thoughts given on this forum. There are some very experienced members to listen too. My destination is fairly clear in that I am building and equipping my retirement workshop (the stops on the way and the final destination do keep changing a little LOL). I already own a Trend T7 hand held plunge and Makita trim router. Having a router table in my workshop was a definite. Using the aforementioned certainly helped me understand the limitations in respect to what you can and cant do but I would say you could probably do more than you think. In the end I have just purchased the Incra Mast R Lift II with AUK 2400w fixed base router, prompted by Peter Sefton's @ WWW flash sale and recent discussions. This was definitely above my budget but I am lucky to be able to afford it if not entirely justify it. I will be incorporating this into one of the modular work benches that I will be building (using my hand held routers). The one thing I think I do know is the I shall continue to use my existing routers along with my new router set up so no real unnecessary expenditure and all part of my learning journey.
On a separate note, the video by Dennis posted by Spectric provided some additional insights on workbench build. I have been going down the PS Paoson modular mobile workbench design route. There are similarities. However there are some interesting ideas shown by Dennis which I will definitely be considering. I am intrigued/curious about Micro Jig dovetail system. Watch out for my post Dovetail or T-slot?
Jackie
 
Going back to @ Phario's original post and query. The point about the end destination, i.e. what you want/need to be able to do, and as important, what your budget/affordability is is very valid. This will ultimately drive the decision making process.
I would advise to taking your time and hence avoid if you can the issues mentioned by members here about stages of expense and upgrades which may be wasteful. You indicted that your budget was circa £250-£350 for the router. Do you have a budget in mind for the router table/workbench, router insert/lift etc? this may influence your decision.
In my case I have been pondering what I should do wrt to my router set up for a good few months, and been attentive to the advice and thoughts given on this forum. There are some very experienced members to listen too. My destination is fairly clear in that I am building and equipping my retirement workshop (the stops on the way and the final destination do keep changing a little LOL). I already own a Trend T7 hand held plunge and Makita trim router. Having a router table in my workshop was a definite. Using the aforementioned certainly helped me understand the limitations in respect to what you can and cant do but I would say you could probably do more than you think. In the end I have just purchased the Incra Mast R Lift II with AUK 2400w fixed base router, prompted by Peter Sefton's @ WWW flash sale and recent discussions. This was definitely above my budget but I am lucky to be able to afford it if not entirely justify it. I will be incorporating this into one of the modular work benches that I will be building (using my hand held routers). The one thing I think I do know is the I shall continue to use my existing routers along with my new router set up so no real unnecessary expenditure and all part of my learning journey.
On a separate note, the video by Dennis posted by Spectric provided some additional insights on workbench build. I have been going down the PS Paoson modular mobile workbench design route. There are similarities. However there are some interesting ideas shown by Dennis which I will definitely be considering. I am intrigued/curious about Micro Jig dovetail system. Watch out for my post Dovetail or T-slot?
Jackie

Hi Jackie,

Thank you for your sage advice. I’ll have a look. I’ve been pondering returning the MOF001 in favour of a used Dewalt 625.

While I get what people are advising, it’s a bit difficult when the majority of advice is essentially coming from the direction of people who have had years or decades of knowing exactly what they want. The amount of information I’m getting is significant and it’s almost impossible to take everyone’s advice on board.

To ask a beginning amateur what their endgame is is like asking a 6th grader what their career is going to be.

In terms of my own situation, my living situation will probably change by the time the router dies. By then I might have space, a workshop, and much more experience on my hands.
 
In the end I have just purchased the Incra Mast R Lift II with AUK 2400w fixed base router,
Once you get to the top you can go no further so money well spent and a lifetime solution in my opinion. Now you need the fence and the rest, again I like the idea of the removable Incra positioner as used by Dennis but another option is the fixing plate from Benchdogs, Incra
and again either use the 10minute workshop discount code or wait for one of their sales.
 
@phario. I think that your thoughts at this stage in your journey of getting a used router such as the Dewalt 625 would be as good a place to start as any. For probably circa £100 you could get a decent enough machine to get you going and well inside budget. My Trend T7 2100w, 1/2 inch router is classed as heavy duty. It is not sophisticated in any way but it has done what I have needed well enough and handled things such as routing worktops and so on with no problem. Can be had new on Amazon for £110. As I mentioned, you can do a lot with a hand held router using guides and fixtures, there is loads of stuff on YouTube of course and it becomes part of the journey in learning what you can do.

@Spectric, thanks. I am certain the money will be well worth it and glad I made the decision. Not surprisingly Fences are on my list and I have been appraising options. Lots to choose from, from basic to sophisticated (and very expensive). I have no doubt the Incra LS Positioner/Fence system is exceptionally well engineered and versatile. I think I may start at a more basic level and use that to work out what I may need down the line. I may even start by just making my own fence system.
Jackie
 
A triton router in a table is an absolute pain, every time you want to change bit the interlock on the switch comes on and you have to get on your hands and knees to unlock it, many many better router out there for a table, I ended up with a Hitachi 1/2" Router and a UJK lift, not more knee problems and much more powerful, for free hand use I bought a Draper expert, the clear base and three LED lights made it so pleasurable I bought another, both now set up for a Leigh dovetail jig, at the last count I had six Routers, yes I am a tool tart.
 
Back
Top