Looking after my table saw

[martlewis]

Hey all,

Any suggestions what to use toget rid of the grease off my new table saw and make it nice and clean and shiny? :lol:

Also what should I be using to protect the surface from rust? Wax has been mentioned somewhere on these forums. Is there anything I'm likely to find whilst HID is dragging me round the supermarket tomorrow?

 

[Philly]

WD40 and some rags!
Then a coat of paste wax.
Cheers
Philly

 

[Scrit]

WD40 and some rags!

Not a fan of WD40 as it appears to contain something which oxidises bright zinc plating.... I'd use good old fashioned (and cheap) paraffin, or whire spirits.

The best wax I know of is Liberon Lubo

Scrit

 

[martlewis]

Will have to be white spirit cos i've not got any wd40 :shock:

Any suggestions where I can get the wax from? I was hoping somebody would say they get theirs from morrisons or similar as I'm shopping later today

 

[engineer one]

yes definately not wd40. better the white spirits, and then maybe some of the motorcycle products for chain etc. initially a car wax without silicon would do for the table, and then maybe one of the spray oils for inside.

paul :wink:

 

[Mike.C]

Can't help you with anything from the shops today, but IMHO the best long term protection is Liberon's Lubricating wax from Axminster or anywhere else that sells Liberon products.

While on this subject, what do you guys use on the rise n fall/tilt mechanisms inside the table saw? I thought you would have to use grease but I now see Paul says to use one of the spray oils. I am talking about the screw type rod, or what ever you call them, which the rise n fall/tilt runs on.

Have fun with your new toy.

Cheers

Mike

 

[Noel]

Forget about WD40. Thinners, white spiit is the proper stuff. Clean it with the sovent soaked rag etc, wash down with solvent again and then put on 2 or 3 coats of paste wax. Alot of people use Liberon etc, personally I think it's too volitile and much prefer ordinary wax. Leave a good friction free surface as well as protecting the surface from the atmosphere. Wax about once a month.
For the gears and pinions etc I use dry lube or dry grease / graphite applied with a tooth brush.

 

[pidgeonpost]

If you're manic about chain maintenance, you could do worse than to use on of the lubricants sold for motorcycle chains - I used to use Linklyfe on my trusty Norton. This is a graphite grease which is semi-solid off the shelf.

From memory, the routine is:

1. remove chain and clean thoroughly in your favourite solvent. Tie about a foot of string through one of the links.

2. wait until wife is out, then heat the grease gently and carefully on the cooker (beware! It is flammable!), and when liquid lower the chain in and agitate it about for a few minutes with a stick or screwdriver.

3. hoik it out using the string and hang up the chain to cool and dry before re-installing.

4. clean up, you know what will happen if you don't!

 

[Mike.C]

Noel,

Alot of people use Liberon etc, personally I think it's too volitile and much prefer ordinary wax.

I'm surprised Noel, because as you say many of us use the stuff and have done for a number of years. You probably don't remember but I have used it since the thread (around 2003) where we spoke about my purchase of the Jet 54A.
I use it on all my machines cast iron or not, but you have now got me thinking about one of them bursting into flames. Is it really that volatile?

Cheers

Mike

 

[syntec4]

I use this on my Bandsaw.

http://www.robinsonsfoundry.co.uk/shop/ ... 65_1L.html

It's very good. It dries clear. Its designed to stop parts of you're bike rotting in salty conditions. If you go to a bike shop it should be £5.99, and it will last ages. I am still on my first bottle which I've had since Nov '05. Thats using it on the bike and the saw.

Lee.

 

[engineer one]

checking some of the stuff i have bought in the past for other things,
Holts used to do a pro range of things like ptfe and solid greases without silicone, and also a spray degreaser. wonder whether others have tried same?? also plus gas do a dismantling spray which is a de-greaser.

as far as i know the only real problem with these degreasing products is that many require water to remove, and you worry about it getting into the electrics, somaybe white spirit is the way to go, my only worry would be the residue.

paul :wink:

 

[Noel]

There's little residual left after using white spirit and in any case will be under a few coats of wax.

Hi Mike, it's only a personal preference ref the Liberon stuff. I know most waxes have solvents but this stuff had waaay too many and I didn't find it that easy to apply. Much prefer Briwax or other paste wax.

Pidgeon, not a good idea to clean chains in solvent. Good chance that the oil in the roller bearings will get washed out. I've used parafin wax using the heating method you describe and it offers very good protection.

 

[seaco]

I don't use anything special just Briwax as I use this a fair bit works fine...

 

[martlewis]

When you say paste wax, all I can find is wood polish paste wax. What's the right stuff to use for cast iron?

 

[Philly]

Mart
Thats the stuff, good old wood wax.
Wipe it on, buff it off. It prevents rust and gives a nice slick surface.
Hope this helps
Philly

 

[martlewis]

Now I assume we're talking clear wax? Have found a couple of places doing things like mahogany paste wax!

 

[Noel]

Clear is best.

 

[Mike.C]

Hi Noel,

Thanks for that.

Can you or anyone else recommend a dry lube or dry grease to use on the gears, pinions etc. Also do you use it on all the mechanical parts underneath the table saw?

Cheers

Mike

 

[seaco]

Hi Mike

I use Trends dry lube and I've found it quite good and yes I use it on all mechanical parts but mainly on anything where metal to metal meet...

 

[Lord Nibbo]

Well I have tried everything/anything going but I still go back to using Liberon Lubricating wax, there must be a reason why I keep using it! :wink: