Linear join on an oak worktop?

[sploo]

I'm in the planning stages for a new kitchen, and facing a number of design challenges. I've previously used IKEA's solid oak (strip) worktop (http://www.ikea.com/gb/en/products/kitc ... -40301888/) and successfully got nice 90 degree joints (the total worktop was a 'U' shape).

Unfortunately, this new kitchen would require a linear run of worktop that's longer than the largest length available from IKEA (over 3m, and the longest is 2.46m).

I could get the ends of two lengths perfectly flat and use the standard worktop connectors to butt join them in a line, but I have a feeling that's not going to look good on day one, and likely worse as the boards move (and get muck in the joint). I assume it's just a bad idea and should be dropped immediately?

 

[Phil Pascoe]

I have read on worktop suppliers sites that you should not use a mitre with solid wood tops, but butt joint them with mason's mitre.

 

[RossJarvis]

Are you cutting in a hob or sink at any point on this? I would think, if at all possible you could cut out "finger joints" and maybe best around a "cut out" for the smallest area to be done. If the "strips" are of uniform width, it may just be do-able but need a fair amount of effort.

 

[sploo]

Are you cutting in a hob or sink at any point on this? I would think, if at all possible you could cut out "finger joints" and maybe best around a "cut out" for the smallest area to be done. If the "strips" are of uniform width, it may just be do-able but need a fair amount of effort.

There would be two lengths, both >2.46m, one will have a sink and one will have a hob.

I guess it might be possible to join two boards in the middle of the cut outs - likely with a Domino to connect each thin strip. The joint would have to be essentially perfect though - otherwise it'd stick out like a sore thumb.

I am looking at some third party suppliers of boards (for custom lengths); though there's obviously logistical complexities with that too.

 

[LynnJ]

Far better all round to source a longer length.

I recently purchased a 4m length of solid oak (strip) worktop for £200 inc. delivery from here:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/390214356609

Appearance and quality seem very good but I can't vouch for the longevity as it has only been installed for 2 weeks.

 

[petermillard]

Joining along a straight length is best avoided if possible, and you don't want to do it either side of a cut-out - it's already the weakest part of the run, don't make it weaker by putting a join in! Also a join either side of say a sink would make it far more prone to water ingress. 4m lengths are standard - buy elsewhere.

I've bought from these guys before - http://www.woodworktops.com - with good results.

HTH Pete

 

[Chrispy]

If you really want to go with the shorter worktops, I can join them for you with a feature dovetail / Jigsaw like joint, I did post a photo of one I did recently.

 

[stuartpaul]

I wouldn't try and join in those circumstances.

I've used http://www.worktop-express.co.uk/ several times and had positive experiences. You might find them cheaper as well!

 

[NazNomad]

If you can't hide a joint, make a feature of it.

Contrasting butteflies maybe? A 'jigsaw puzzle' joint? Something unusual.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

^^^^ that's what Chrispy's referring to. Someone'll probably link it in a minute.
http://www.worktop-express.co.uk/media/ ... _guide.pdf
Contains good info. (and backs up my comment on mason's mitres) and gives many 4mtr options for example.
I assume in the OP you were referring to full width mitres, not mason's.

 

[Chrispy]

Here it is.
when-it-just-isn-t-long-enough-t101030.html

 

[worn thumbs]

If you haven't bought the worktop yet it has to be a better idea to buy the cheaper 3m length from the link given above.If you were in the position of already having the shorter worktops and having to make a join,the butt join with connectors (with or without biscuits) wouldn't be my choice.I would cut a comb joint with each segment the width of the individual elements of the worktop and having degreased the newly exposed surfaces,I would join the sections while weighted down on a flat surface with a very good glue-like an epoxy.

 

[sploo]

Very good info - many thanks all! That's at least two references to worktop suppliers that will do the kind of sizes I need (including a shorter/wider section for a breakfast bar) - all at very acceptable prices.

Chrispy - love your joint idea on the thread you've linked. I take it you made templates from MDF and used a router with a guide bush? It occurs to me that it would work well if there were several such joins in the one kitchen; basically make a feature of it.

My only concern would be whether there would be differences in the movement of the staves on the two pieces (as they'll inevitably have different densities and grains). That said, unless you were really unlucky, it may well average out across the whole width, and each strip is pretty thin.

 

[sploo]

If you haven't bought the worktop yet it has to be a better idea to buy the cheaper 3m length from the link given above.If you were in the position of already having the shorter worktops and having to make a join,the butt join with connectors (with or without biscuits) wouldn't be my choice.I would cut a comb joint with each segment the width of the individual elements of the worktop and having degreased the newly exposed surfaces,I would join the sections while weighted down on a flat surface with a very good glue-like an epoxy.

Only saw your post after my reply above - fortunately I don't have any worktops yet, so getting the longer lengths from one of the above suppliers is looking like a good idea.

When I did the last kitchen the lengths that had the sink and hob cut outs weren't that big. This time they'll be long, so I'm worried about them breaking. It occurs to me that I could probably fit the worktops (i.e. the mitre) then put them on the cabinets with some thin shims underneath, and maybe cut the hob and sink holes in-situ; perhaps doing a majority of the cutting with circular saw, and finishing with a handsaw (much less wood turned into dust than with a router). The shims could then be removed to drop the worktops down. That way I'd never have to lift and move the worktops when they have the cut outs.

 

[Chrispy]

Sorry Sploo I should have made clear, I would cnc it.

 

[sploo]

Sorry Sploo I should have made clear, I would cnc it.

Difficult with a long length of worktop + small CNC machine. I have one, but the max width for stock is 615mm. I'd probably CNC an MDF template, then take the template to the worktop and use a router with a template bushing or bearing guided router bit.