tuongtrante1
New member
Anyone have the track saw?
Lidl tools coming up.
- Thread starter Monkey Mark
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Bodgers
Established Member
Which ones?Alexfn":274mqp7f said:
I am not saying they are anything like the mainstream models (Bosch, Makita, Dewalt) or even Festool or Mafel).
I was saying this is a set of identical saws:
Grizzly T25552
Parkside (Lidl)
Taurus (Aldi)
Scheppach PL55
Woodstar Divar 55
Fox W1835
These are all identical in every way.
Which ones?
I am not saying they are anything like the mainstream models (Bosch, Makita, Dewalt) or even Festool or Mafel).
I was saying this is a set of identical saws:
Grizzly T25552
Parkside (Lidl)
Taurus (Aldi)
Scheppach PL55
Woodstar Divar 55
Fox W1835
These are all identical in every way.[/quote]
have you compared them side by side because i can guarantee they are not, from the way the blade is changed to the lack of a riving knife down to the rails it runs on the parkside is different, add to that the blade casing and the general shape of the machine the parkside is anything but identical, i own a parkside and a scheppach.. i think you are right about the rest of the bunch being the same but not the parkside
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ThKPk1tNUaA
if you watch that video you will see how different the parkside is, note the red flip up lever for blade change similar to the festool thats not on any of the saws you mentioned
I am not saying they are anything like the mainstream models (Bosch, Makita, Dewalt) or even Festool or Mafel).
I was saying this is a set of identical saws:
Grizzly T25552
Parkside (Lidl)
Taurus (Aldi)
Scheppach PL55
Woodstar Divar 55
Fox W1835
These are all identical in every way.[/quote]
have you compared them side by side because i can guarantee they are not, from the way the blade is changed to the lack of a riving knife down to the rails it runs on the parkside is different, add to that the blade casing and the general shape of the machine the parkside is anything but identical, i own a parkside and a scheppach.. i think you are right about the rest of the bunch being the same but not the parkside
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ThKPk1tNUaA
if you watch that video you will see how different the parkside is, note the red flip up lever for blade change similar to the festool thats not on any of the saws you mentioned
Bodgers
Established Member
[
Interesting. It is possible that the Parkside is the same as the Kawasaki and Triton by the look of it...
Sent from my MI 3W using Tapatalk
Interesting. It is possible that the Parkside is the same as the Kawasaki and Triton by the look of it...
Sent from my MI 3W using Tapatalk
Bodgers":13pzok7n said:
ive never seen the Kawasaki and google isnt pulling it up for me,, however the parkside is most definitely not the same as the triton either, the triton has some very different features like the scribe cut,, i will tell you what does look to be the same as the triton,, the titan that screwfix sell,, compare those they look the same, have the same scribe feature and both use the same style of track with the anti tipping lip on it, similar to the track makita use
so far the lidl one is an unknown, seems fairly unique in its build, great that it runs on the festool track, but a shame its gone up by £10 this year
Bodgers
Established Member
Bodgers":3hmwzjsc said:
you are right the kawasaki does look similar,could be the same machine
The Scribe cut is a setting that the triton and the titan saws have (quite possibly the kawasaki also) it locks the blade at 2.5mm and you do the first pass with that to stop chip out. those two are the only ones i know that have it and the way its activated is identical
http://www.screwfix.com/p/titan-ttb673c ... 240v/9257j
http://www.screwfix.com/p/triton-tts140 ... 240v/2902k
misterfish
Established Member
What about the impact driver has anyone got one or used one - it seems to be cheap but with a decent amount of torque?
Misterfish
Misterfish
memzey
Established Member
I think the Makita also has the scribe cut feature. I could be wrong but I think they were the first to have that on a plunge saw.
Graham Orm
Established Member
The Beaufix stuff is worth a look. The thinners is excellent.
memzey
Established Member
The Makita track saw definitely has the scribe function. I looked at buying one ages ago (when they first came out) but couldn't justify the price over a standard circular saw. Bought a cordless one instead and using it against a straight edge does all I need - mind you I don't do site work and I do have a bandsaw and a dimension saw.
iNewbie
Established Member
Wuffles":r4f0hm9z said:
Makita call it a Quick Stop button - page 7:
http://icmsmakita.eu/cms/custom/uk/user ... 0_J228.pdf
Within its limits it's fine. Not immensely powerful, but will tighten up wheel nuts on the car when putting on/taking off winter tyres, to the point where it only needs around one turn with torque wrench to get it right.misterfish":fha0tlyo said:
Been using mine intermittently for a year or so, and it's still not had its first charge.
Eric The Viking
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Quick (depth) stop feature? It isn't a "button" though, it's a sliding peg with a rubber lump on the end.
Two thoughts about this:
#1: It might be a translation error, but
#2: The saw is British made, so it shouldn't be.
Recently I has mainly been faffing about re-decking a decent tower scaffold, with 12mm, non-slip MFC plywood. For that, the scoring cut option (whatever it's called) was excellent. So good, in fact, that the slippery side was left with an almost razor edge.
I agree it's odd, but it does work very nicely. I wasn't using a new blade and the rubber strips on the rails are a bit "care worn", too. I was expecting a lot more chipping and pleasantly surprised that it didn't happen.
On the kickback thing, I've had it happen once or twice, but I was using the saw in a really stupid way at the time. Cutting man-made board I've never had any problem, except once with really cheap chipboard flooring (and being stupid at the same time). I allowed the saw to be a really sloppy fit on the rail (letting the adjusters slacken off a lot), and operating it in a physically awkward way in a space where I couldn't get body and arms into the right position (cutting flooring in the loft).
I don't know what the Mafell is like (apart from being gert posh'n'all, and obviously being very well made), but I've found I need to pay attention to the rail-gripping sliders - they need to be set just so, so that the saw runs freely but with no obvious slack. Get that right and the Makita is a delight to use.
The problem is the rails in my case: I've got three and there's about 4 years difference in manufacture. The die (for extruding the rail) was obviously been replaced betweentimes. The 3m rail is not quite dimensionally the same as the original two 1.4m ones. So I have to reset the saw's adjuster knobs when I swap between them.
It means I can't join all three rails together, either. The two 1.4m rails work fairly well, but the saw will stop at any joint between the 3m and 1.4m ones. You can clearly see the misalignement when you try to join them up - it's about 1/2mm.
You also have to be careful with the kerf and saw plate thickness of third party blades. I had some nasty, really long rip cuts to do before Christmas, so bought a cheap Axminster blade on that basis. It worked, but I won't use a rail saw for that job again (man-made board is fine, for resin-loaded old pine - use the bandsaw!), Most importantly, the Axminster saw plate was way too thin, so although the Axminster kerf was nominally narrower than the usual blades (1.7mm rather than 2.2mm), it still cut into the rubber strip slightly. Grrr!
The blade thing is a nuisance. I don't mind paying for quality blades, but I'd also like to be able to use "disposable" ones on suspect stock (there can be chunky metal inclusions in chipboard nowadays because so much is recycled). Nobody seems to sell cheap blades that will fit rail saws properly (plate thickness, overall diameter, bore and kerf).
Otherwise it's definitely one of the best and most useful power tools I've bought, and good value. I very much like both the build quality and design features of the Makita. With hoover-type DX fitted it leaves almost no mess at all for most cuts. The 3m rail was also good value, depite the joining issue.
E.
PS: note the different blade sizes: Festool TS55 is 160mm diameter, but the Makita is calibrated for 165mm - it's enough difference to be a nuisance!
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