Lead saw back.

[Fat ferret]

Got a wee 10" spear and Jackson tenon saw one of the later ones. It was blunt but hadn't been sharpened before, 3 strokes to each gullet and it cut a treat. The thin steel back didn't give much weight so I added a piece of lead flashing which I folded round the spine. Cuts very well now, best I've ever had. But now the lead spine draws on work pieces it touches.

Any ideas to stop this? I suppose I could varnish the spine if no one has a better idea.

 

[AndyT]

A strip of gaffer tape would be in the same can-do style, I think.

 

[Cheshirechappie]

Or replace the lead with something equally heavy, but non-marking. Depleted uranium, perhaps?

Hmmm. Maybe the gaffer tape might be the best bet....

 

[Vann]

Any ideas to stop this? I suppose I could varnish the spine if no one has a better idea.

I was going to suggest gold paint - then you could pretend it's a brass back (or gold back :shock: ).

Cheers, Vann.

 

[sdjp]

Or replace the lead with something equally heavy, but non-marking. Depleted uranium, perhaps?

Depleted Uranium (and, for that matter, non-depleted uranium too) is hard, thus you wouldn't be able to bend it over the back. You could cut a slot in it, with a mill - but you'd have to do it under inert atmosphere, as it's pyrophorric (burst sinto flames with the heat of machining). Mind you, the hardness is one of the reasons it would be non-marking in that application. Plutonium and neptunium also have similar, er, issues.

Iridium, Osmium or Tungsten would be good options there. If, you know, you happen to have a bar in your back pocket… (Those three are also denser than Uranium too).

Or: paint, tape or varnish the lead. That's probably what I'd do - it seems very slightly less effort! (Shellac in my case, as that;s what I've got to hand, and I'm pretty sure it'd stick well).

 

[TobyC]

Thin brass sheet over the lead, maybe?

 

[Fat ferret]

Thanks everyone, I've went for patinated brass effect parcel tape.

 

[AndyT]

Thanks everyone, I've went for patinated brass effect parcel tape.

Nice!

 

[Trafalgar]

One is tempted in a moment (bizarre detour) like this to make a gift of a decent brass-backed saw.

Here's to hoping this was all tongue-in-cheek.

 

[Fat ferret]

Does get a bit strange sometimes . I'm one of the "if it cuts wood lets go cut some wood" brigade which is why I have a plane with a welded sole and now a tenon saw with added lead for extra heft. Whereas some are in the "my chisel back must also serve as a shaving mirror" brigade. Wouldn't do if we were all the same.

Said saw works a treat, I cut 36 housings for a big built in book case I'm building at the moment this afternoon. It's one with the later blocky red beech handle which I think you can still buy new but iit's the "work horse" s and j brand.

 

[bugbear]

Got a wee 10" spear and Jackson tenon saw one of the later ones. It was blunt but hadn't been sharpened before, 3 strokes to each gullet and it cut a treat. The thin steel back didn't give much weight so I added a piece of lead flashing which I folded round the spine. Cuts very well now, best I've ever had. But now the lead spine draws on work pieces it touches.

Any ideas to stop this? I suppose I could varnish the spine if no one has a better idea.

This is a very interesting report; despite the simplicity of the method it is a perfectly controlled experiment in to the effect of weight/mass in the spine of a saw, all other things being constant.

Thank you.

Bugbear

 

[bugbear]

It's one with the later blocky red beech handle which I think you can still buy new

As long as a poor handle has excess material, rasping can be beneficially applied. Rounding arrises
has a particularly good effort/reward ratio.

BugBear

 

[Trafalgar]

Whereas some are in the "my chisel back must also serve as a shaving mirror" brigade. Wouldn't do if we were all the same.

I've always wondered how one is able to prevent a chisel back from taking on a polish over time (and it actually takes very little time). Normal backing off polishes the flat face. They become quite bright and quite flat. It's inevitable isn't it? One would have to do contortions and go way out of their way to prevent this it would seem. Of course, it would be absurd to do so.

My chisels have certainly not become less polished or less flat (or cut less well) over the years. Appears to be the case 100% of the time tool steel repeatedly meets a fine abrasive kept in reasonably flat condition. Yet, there is the crowd that scoffs at bright steel. I've never been able to reconcile it. It's like disbelieving the sun will rise in the East each morning. Have fun trying to stop it from happening.

The only other alternative that could explain it is too many chisels vs. too little woodworking but you don't seem to be that sort of fellow.

 

[Fat ferret]

The weight definitely makes a difference, dunno why but it does. The handle is comfortable enough but totally agree that some of the reworked ones look ten times better than the original.

9 chisels and work as a joiner around half the time. The backs never get mirror shiny but I only use the double sided Norton oil stone for sharpening which leaves a fairly matt surface, still plenty sharp enough to do the job if the job is getting it sharp enough to keep working with the tool.