Well, Good morning everyone! My morning that is...I see Chris being that he is two hours ahead of me has already popped in and answered the technical things--the hard questions!
My oldest and I thank you all for such kind words! Makes working each day very rewarding.
Paul, like Chris said, the nominal specs called for this thin. Even a rise to .028" or preferably .030" [at the max] would make for a fairly robust saw. The good news is I can swap out the blade if it ever happens.
I kept the saws for an extra week and used them very, very heavily. Much of that was in Oak cutting tenon cheeks. If the saw plate gets hot--which it can--the toothline will become elongated. Keeping the saw waxed keeps it running fairly well without this effect.
fwiw, all my small joinery saws are from .018" to .020". My early carcass and tenon saws range from .022" to .028" and one mid-19th one which currently has 3 3/4" usable depth is .025". Later 19th/early 20th cent. ones I have of about 4" usable depth are normalized at .030". Seems the industry as represented by my meager collection found that to be a happy thickness.
As for the 2-bolts. One thing which can help strengthen the design is to ensure that the bolt holes are well drilled through the cheeks and steel so there is no slop. As well, the saw plate abuts inside the kerf for at least 90% of the height of the handle. Makes for a firm connection between the two. After that it is simply keeping the saw nuts snug as the wood changes over time.
Hi Simon--not enough :wink: Link is in my profile.
Andy--no makers mark. Not yet. I have gone back and forth on a method. I think I have made a decision and am waiting for a test run of impressing some medallions.
Well, I have had but one cup of coffee.
Take care, my continued thanks to each one for all the kind words.
Mike
