Kitchen Worktops

[woodman]

Anyone got any experience or advise as to cutting kitchen worktops at 45* angle ?
Would you recommend using a tapered jig bearing in mind the top is 6 ft long x 2ft wide.
Would prefer to use to use table/bench saw for best results.
Any thoughts much appreciated :!:

 

[Shultzy]

I would use a circular saw along a guide batten, cutting from the underside, then use a bearing guided cutter to finish off to the line.

 

[jasonB]

By 45deg angl edo you mean two tops meeting in a 90deg corner or 45deg corner, in both cases W/T jig & router (masons mitre)

If you mean you want the worktop to run over and then down the side of say an island then tablesaw and sliding carrage. Good circ saw and guiderail may also do.

Best to get a tube of Colourfil to be on the safe side.

Jason

 

[woodman]

Have thought of that but usually find that on long cuts like that the cut is never perfectly straight.
I need to get it right first time as I am joining 2 parts into a corner and don`t have any room for error apart from the cost of replacing the tops if I get it wrong.

 

[woodman]

By 45deg angl edo you mean two tops meeting in a 90deg corner or 45deg corner, in both cases W/T jig & router.

If you mean you want the worktop to run over and then down the side of say an island then tablesaw and sliding carrage. Good circ saw and guiderail may also do.

Best to get a tube of Colourfil to be on the safe side.

Jason

What is a W/T jig? excuse my ignorance!

 

[woodman]

Both parts are 45* into a corner one is 8ft long the other 6ft. Thankfully the corner is true at 90*

 

[jasonB]

Its what every good kitchen fitter uses :wink:

Watch the two "combi jig" videos

It is not usual to do a full corner to corner mitre, a masons mitre is used for postformed laminate tops

Jason

 

[woodman]

Wow, what you can do with the right toys! Wish I had one but as this is a one off job it does not warrent the expense.

I have a router and the cutters would this be a better finish than a circular saw?

 

[jasonB]

100 times better finish, you can also do the bolt holes with it.

They can be hired from most hire shops or you can get cheap MDF ones which may be OK for a one off.

Jason

 

[woodman]

Thanks for your advise and help.
Will see if I can hire a jig locally as I have all the rest of the stuff, not sure why but I find working with router is more accurate than a circular saw.
Even have some joining pegs which I bought in case I ever needed them, so here goes....................

 

[Argee]

If you do hire a jig (recommended), you might find a page I did a while ago helps. It's here if you get the time.

Ray.

 

[skipdiver]

I do these all the time and you need a good quality jig,Trend,Freud or similar.You definitely need a good router bit.I use Freud ones and they are £20 quid each.Only good for one kitchen fitting job.You also need a powerful router and need to make several passes to get a good finish.Ignore any of these and the outcome will be patchy.You only need colourfil if the the results aren't brilliant as it hides a bad cut.I use a good quality waterproof PVA to join mine.There is a methodology to doing them involving having the boards the right way up for the male and female cuts.There is a kitchen fitters forum on the screwfix site that has regular posts on this subject.I would read up as much as i can if i were you,it's easy to get it wrong.

 

[skipdiver]

Ray posted as i did.His page looks comprehensive.

 

[pren]

Ray: That's an excellent tutorial, sir! =D> Clear, concise and silly person proof!

I had been contemplating the dark art of worktop fitting a while back and had looked at various jigs. For some bizarre reason, I was under the impression that the guide pins had to be drilled into the worktop. I found this odd, as you would then be left with apparently random holes in the surface #-o

Lucky I never tried it .....

I think your page will find it's way into my favorites box.

Cheers.
Bryn.