kinks in handsaws?

[condeesteso]

Every so often I buy a few cheap handsaws. One recent arrival is this one, but it has slight kinks in it. I have taken best pic I can manage, they are slight:

Question is, is there a reliable technique to remove the kinks?

Here's the saw, nothing too special steel back... just a nice size and weight, handle is good. It could make a decent user I think.

Help appreciated, as always

 

[Bod]

Grip the toe of the blade, upright close to the back in a metalwork vise, then tap the end of the back towards the handle, sharply!
The idea is to stretch the blade, pulling the bend out.

Sharpen and try. A small curve may have little or no practical effect on the saw working.

Bod

 

[condeesteso]

Thanks Bod, I follow (I think ). Feels logical as in use over years the edge is in compression when cutting... or maybe just badly used or stored. Anyway it isn't too badly kinked so well worth a tune. Needs sharpen & set etc, handle nice and tight.
I shall give it a go.

 

[Sheffield Tony]

I seem to recall being taught to hold the saw by the handle in the usual orientation, and strike the back at the toe and heel to force the blade deeper into the back at the ends, thus causing the back to pull the cutting edge into tension. Which seems to be in a similar vein. It seemed to work for me on a Roberts and Lee dovetail saw recently.

 

[swagman]

http://paulsellers.com/2014/02/working-class-action/

 

[Cheshirechappie]

Bad Axe have a page on their website which pretty much agrees with what Sheffield Tony was saying above - http://www.badaxetoolworks.com/retension-a-backsaw.php - which method (if it works) avoids the need to dismantle the saw completely.

 

[condeesteso]

A few ideas here. I'm reluctant to remove plate from back (just yet anyway) as I have never done that and not sure I could get it back nice and tight. I'll start with the simpler options, Sheffield's sounds logical too and simple to try. If I can improve it just a bit it will need a sharpen and test - I suspect the small curves in it may not upset it too much. It owes me about a tenner so I don't want to spend too long on it!
That Badaxe article is really good cheshire, straight talking stuff, I like that =D>

 

[Billy Flitch]

Douglas sorting slight curves in a back saw is really no big thing. Place the plate in a metal workers vice and with a block of wood say 2 1/2" wide that has a nice square shoulder on it place it under the back and with a lump hammer start to tap it up at one end then the other it will come away I`ve never had one that was so fast it wouldn't come away.
With the back off sight down the blade and bend it away from any curve until your happy with it.

Sight down the back its self and test it with a straightedge if any deviation put it on the bench place the wood on the back and tap with the hammer till your happy with it. To finish it off put the blade back in the vice hold the back above the blade and with the wood on top of the back gently tap it back on, first one end then work your way along it.
If the back is slightly out of position then place the wood on the end and give a tap.
When you are happy with every thing turn the saw over and rap the back on the bench making sure it comes squarely down on the bench then that's it. That takes me about 5, to10 mins it may take a bit longer if its the first time that you will be doing it but really its no big deal. Have fun .

 

[condeesteso]

Thanks Billy, you make it sound easy. I'll assume I need to remove the handle - the screws have never been disturbed and are nicely settled, but I can give it a go. Once plate is out I may do all the setting etc then too. It'll be a good saw to try this on as it has great potential but not much use as it is.

 

[Billy Flitch]

Douglas you can remove the handle when you want to, but you don't have to, its the back you are removing to correct the plate.