[caution: this post is longer and far more boring than any human can reasonably stand. But I didn't want to waste it so I've posted it anyway. Feel free to ignore it, but not the safety stuff!]
Bluntly, I wouldn't waste any more time on that table.
I started with a bought B+Q table and router, which was dreadful, but graduated to a cupboard shelf (melamine faced chipboard), bolted onto a cheap workmate-style portable workbench (replacing the wooden jaws). The router was clamped on the back, and the cutter simply pushed through to the surface (whilst it was running, obviously). Now I have a commercially made table, but I emphasise:
it allows me to do things more easily, but it's not more accurate than my cupboard shelf version.
A fence is a piece of straight 2x2 or 2x4 clamped to the table edges. If you want it split, you just cut a notch in it and use something sacrificial on the front - MDF or possibly hardboard. Adjustment with shims at either end, as there's a 2:1 scaling if the layout is symmetrical, so you can be remarkably precise.
Cost: practically nothing; results: as good as with something very posh.
The things you need to get used to are SAFETY, cutter and work-feed speeds, depth of cut in each pass, and how to set cutter height, etc. There are some very good books around (look for ones by US writer Bill Hylton for a start), also videos (I'm a fan of Steve Maskery's
Workshop Essentials and
Marc Spagnuolo. There are many others too).
Find plenty of
scrap material to practice with, and *always* allow for extra stock on a project, because you'll need it to set up the cut you need to make. Even if you have 'dial-in' distances for height and fence, you'll probably still need to 'creep-up' on the finish you want.
Separately-adjustable split fences are overrated, IMHO. If you're using the table as a planer, you need one, but set up is tricky, and hand planing is quicker and easier by the time you've messed about doing it (believe me: I used to do it before I got my own planer/thicknesser). You can't remove much stock at a time either, as a router and cutter can't handle the loads imposed, and anyway sticking a bit of melamine on the outfeed side, or even just a bit of ice-cream tub plastic, does just as well.
The only two other reasons for having one are zero-clearance for fine finishes (either mouldings or jointing cutters), or better dust extraction. In both cases you can achieve this with a flat slab fence with a notch in the middle (and a box on the back for DX).
Personally, I'd
just get the thing working first:
Setup Tools: a reliable straightedge and 2" or 3" and 6" engineer's squares (get the BS-929 marked ones, not those Chinese ones that just claim to be - mine are Fischer).
Shim the insert plate with 80g paper until it's dead flat with the top, and
check the flatness of both with a known-good straightedge. Adjust until the heavy back of one of the squares passes across the join between plate and table without catching in either direction. Check with a long straight cutter that the
spindle is perpendicular to the table (you'd be surprised how many people don't do this and wonder why they get rubbish results). Shim the router base edges underneath if necessary. If you don't like paper, use kitchen foil folded over - it doesn't compress as much.
The better you can get the above results, the better your table will work. It's more important than a decent fence, by a long way.
Starter block (AKA the "lead-on pin"): If you're routing with a bearing-guided cutter, you don't need a fence at all, theoretically, BUT you NEED a first pivot point to start the cut safely. Otherwise you get kickback. Commercial router plates always come with drop-in metal pins for this purpose, but you can achieve the same thing simply by screwing a wooden block to the top of the table near the cutter
slightly in front and to the right of it. 2-3" away is about right - no further, and closer makes for difficulties. Pivot the workpiece around this block as you start the cut. Once the face is running on the cutter's bearing, it's reasonably safe from kickback, but you still need to keep a firm grip.
I swap to pulling on the outfeed side early on, so there's nothing awkward about feeding the work. If you feel uncomfortable about pulling the workpiece otherwise unsupported, you can put a second block on the outfeed side, but make sure it's behind the straight line between the starter block and the cutter, otherwise the work will catch when the end gets to it. You can also use the end of a piece of 2x2 to do this (clamped hard down at the back of the table) - cheap and simple. Make sure, though, that no lead-on blocks can move in use.
Finally
the fence. Get a decent length of 2x2 or 2x3, well seasoned and planed square; cut a notch for the cutter, and clamp it to the table at the ends, ideally using soft jaw clamps - a bit of 'give' in the clamps stops them moving it as you tighten down. I have a range of clamps, plastic and metal, but invariably end up using these as first preference (sold by Axminster, Rutlands, and probably others too):
Check it's square and true when clamped down hard, plane to fix this if it isn't (hint: write on it which is the true face and top!).
You need
backing blocks too, and
shims. These don't need to be perfectly square, but it helps. 2x2x3" is about right, and two more clamps. These blocks are clamped behind the fence, one at each end. You slip shims between the blocks (which don't move), and the fence (which does). Shims: lots of ideas on the forum recently. I use playing cards, old business cards, and plastic 'window wedges' (commonly used by window fitters for aligning UPVC frames when fitting, good as they come colour-coded in mm increments).
Process of use of the fence: Set up your maximum depth of cut with the fence backed against the blocks (slide fence and blocks around until it's right). Clamp the blocks down hard and put shims in place (you usually only need to do this on one end - pivoting on t'other end is fine!), to move the fence out to the first cut depth you'll take. Make the first pass, remove some shims, re-clamp the fence, repeat. As long as you remember how many shims you use, it's quickly repeatable and very fast to do.
Hope that helps. I strongly recommend you get some good books. Also look at the Ron Fox stuff on Wealden Tools web site (
http://www.wealdentool.eu/hints_and_tips.html).
Safety (again): At the very least, find out what's safe practice and what isn't. Router cutters take no prisoners: injury = amputation. There's no possibility of a severed something being sewn back afterwards.
Get into safe HABITS. For example, I have my NVR switch mounted on the front of the table and, although it fully isolates the router, I ALWAYS remove the router's plug (so I can see the pins) before making anything more complex than height adjustments (on mine that's done from above the table and well away from the cutter so it's safe). I'm a coward: the switch is excellent, BUT it's still electromechanical and thus not 100%reliable.
Be aware of
climb-cutting too (moving the workpiece WITH the cutter blade's movement, instead of against it). You can do this by accident, especially when grooving or dadoing, and a simple setup can suddenly turn quite nasty on you (kickback!). There are times when you want to do this, in a VERY carefully controlled way, to get a good finish, but generally it's dangerous and to be avoided. Don't ever, EVER operate with the workpiece between the cutter and the fence*. It's seriously dangerous and best case will wreck the stock, worst case can wreck you. Fence-cutter-work is good, and the work always moves right-to-left when the fence is furthest away from you.
I'm old and a bit thick: I write on my jigs and fences things like, "DO NOT GO THIS WAY!" or arrows showing the cutter movement (labelling the arrows too!). It's one more protection against that terrible moment of carelessness, or, in my case, stupidity.
The books and various videos web sites etc. will all explain about
push sticks (disposable substitutes for human fingers!), and
finger boards (wooden 'fingers' that look like a hair comb, and apply even pressure to workpieces as they slide past the cutter), and even Shaw guards (similar idea to fingerboards, but industrially-rated). They're all about safe working. You can always ignore safety practice, at your own calculated risk if you UNDERSTAND what you're doing, but if you don't understand the issues in the first place you're a danger to yourself - not good.
Sermon over.
Summary: a really good result from a router table doesn't mean an expensive setup. It means
accurate setup: flatness, smoothness, squareness (fence and spindle), and the ability to move the fence and cutter in small increments - simpler to do than you might think. Posh adjusters, etc. in a skilled worker's hands make the job faster, but he won't get
better results than me with my wedges and clamps!
But you've got a shiny new router table! What a depressing old fart I am...
Seriously, go for accuracy, don't worry about complexity and expense, and you'll be encouraged by the results you begin to get.
E.
*grooving/dadoing a slot
looks like you're doing this, but you're really not, if you're doing it correctly.
Thanks for all the useful hints and tips, 
