jointing help please

[sunnybob]

I've screwed up (NOT for the first time!) and made a sculpted piece of wood far too long.
Dont have the wood or the inclination to start again so I have to cut a piece out the middle and join the two ends back together.
This piece is about 5 ft long, but is only 80 mm x 22 mm.
In the past I would have just cut it and screwed another piece of wood underneath but I am trying to improve my work, so am looking for a way of making this appear (almost) seamless.
The wood is swedish pine, so its soft.
I dont have a biscuit or domino tool available. I do have a router table.

Is it strong enough to put a spline across the pieces?

All suggestions welcome, as long as you keep in mind my pitiful skills level.

 

[Nelsun]

What about a few dowels? You could make a template for the holes with a piece of scrap to get the spacing consistent on both pieces to be joined. You could get fancy and screw/glue on an end piece to form a T shape (to use the top of the T as a fence to reference from). I shall now dazzle you with my plain text artistry to illustrate my thinking:

=T=

Amazing, I know!

 

[bugbear]

This piece is about 5 ft long, but is only 80 mm x 22 mm.

So much for all the Imperial vs Metric threads!! :lol:

BugBear

 

[Ttrees]

Why not use a hand plane?

 

[CHJ]

Is the wood to be finish painted, or is the joint going to be visible?

If painted I'd be tempted to put the two halves back to back and mark for a couple of saw cut spline slots to take some thin ply. (Make sure they are square across both halves, from the same face)

 

[sunnybob]

This piece is about 5 ft long, but is only 80 mm x 22 mm.

So much for all the Imperial vs Metric threads!! :lol:

BugBear

i know, I know. over 60 years thinking in imperial, the last four measuring in metric. What can I say?

TTrees...
These pieces need to be butt jointed, cant overlap Plane achieves nothing untill I have the two pieces matched to each other. I was thinking a spline that I could do with the router table, but I dont think its going to be strong enough over such a short span.


I just might have to revert to plan A and double up the thickness and screw and glue. Oh well, it wont be the first time.

 

[sunnybob]

Chas, overlapping posts.. I'm not sure a spline will be strong enough.

 

[Ttrees]

I failed to understand what you wish to achieve
Care to post a piccy?
Tom

 

[CHJ]

If you have enough length to remove then a lap joint is a possibility (Glue and Screw) but your original scarf joint thought (the longer the better) would surely be adequate with modern adhesives.

 

[sunnybob]

I looked and looked, and then I acted.
I made a 60 mm lap joint (so the over lap area is 60 mm x 75 mm), and then just to add a sparkle, put 4 x 6 mm dowels through it. Most of the stress will be along the wide edge, so the dowels will stop the joint from twisting (I hope)
Quite artistic for me.

 

[WellsWood]

Glad you got this sorted, but I still don't really understand what went on here. If the piece was too long, why all the agony about removing a section from the middle? Surely just chop some off one end - I'm confused.

 

[sunnybob]

Its the upper rear bar of an adirondak love seat. 1.25 metrers long, with two distinct curves cut into it at a 30 degree angle.
Somehow I managed to make the middle flat area 150 mm too long. The only options were carving the thing all over again (not gonna happen), or chopping and splicing the middle back together again.

I was worried because this section takes the weight of both people leaning back.
Its now all glued, and sanded flush, and is barely noticable.
If it starts to move once we are sitting in it, I shall just have to put an under brace across it.

 

[WellsWood]

Right, got it now.