Joining and fixing natural wood worktops

[ike]

I touched on this a while ago but as my kitchen is taking a very long time (lots of structural renovation), I wanted to ask again for any advice on fitting the worktop.

I think I should anchor the worktop near the wall edge and use the slotted bracket at the front edge. Movement won't then compromise a silicone seal to the wall tiles. Please tell me if thats the wrong approach.

On the corner joints I'm a little uncertain. If both runs are fixed on the back edge, the max. movement will be at the front corner. What is the best way to accomodate this movement on the joint? Will the clamp bolts still allow differential movement and should they be just nipped up, and what is the best sealant to use to accomodate the movement.

I'm planning to bring the worktops into the house and unwrap a couple of weeks before fitting. Is that long enough for them to acclimatise?

I want to be sure I get the installation right as I noticed walnut worktop in some kitchen showrooms that has end grain splitting on the corner joints. Not the timber itself, but the lamins coming apart.

Ike

 

[Pecker]

I've just fitted 3 oakwortops. the instructions that came with them were very clear to use stretcher plates (brackets) with slots running across the grain and fix back and front edges the same. Personally in the corner at the front I drilled a hole in the top of the unit that was considerably oversize then put a washer over the screwhead to allow for movement in any direction there.

2weeks is about ideal for conditioning the tops, providing all "wet trades" including painting has been finished beforehand.

I dont know what wood you are using but don't forget to oil it well first (at least 3 coats) and if using a dishwasher/washing machine underneath it, to use a vapour barrier paper between the two.
As for which jointing compound, I wasn't sure either but decided on good old PVA in the end.

woody

 

[ike]

Hi Woody,

It's walnut block. Thanks for the tip on front edge fixing - a good one.

cheers,

Ike

 

[chippy1970]

I dont know if I would have used PVA on the joints. On solid wood tops I have done I use either the proper coloured joint compound or a small amount of silicone.

What you have to worry about is what NORM always goes on about on the Yankee workshop "a cross grain situation" If you are doing say a 90 degree corner then obviously you will have cross grain so I suppose really you should not glue the entire joint, just in a couple of spots.

 

[Andy Pullen]

I would silicon along the length of the joint to make it watertight and silicon will 'give' a little. you only have to put enough clear silicon on along the top edge of the joint to keep moisture out

 

[Karl]

Ike

I would think that 2 weeks would be enough time for the worktops to acclimatise to their new living conditions.

Rather than stretcher plates, I like to use the other method mentioned by Pecker - large holes with a washer over the screw head to allow for movement. Don't go fixing them too tight though - you want to allow the wood to move :lol:

At the butt joints, I use a thin bead of silicon, and just at the top and front edge - just enough to prevent any water ingress.

If you're having a belfast style sink, don't forget to run a drip channel on the underside of the cutout.

HTH.

Cheers

Karl

 

[Shadowfax]

Most of the instructions I have seen all say only store worktops if you have to.
Basically they say fit them after a day or two in the proper environment.
Two weeks might not be necessary.

Cheers
SF

 

[ike]

Andy, Karl,

Thanks. I understand now that 'low modulus' silicone is the most flexible variety and I shall look for some of that. So is it essential to glue some sort of vapour barrier (foil) underneath a W/M or T/D? Doesn't the oil seal it well enough?


Also the worktops will butt up to a range cooker. Should I stick heat-reflective tape across the end grain either side of the hob? Screwfix do 40mm wide rolls of it.

cheers,

Ike

 

[Andy Pullen]

For the small amount of solid worktops that I have done, they usually come with fitting instructions and it is most advisable to follow these to the letter because if anything does go awry the manufacturer will have a good excuse to not compensate you if you do otherwise. Sealing well is most of the battle cos if the moisture content remains the same you will get little movement. Oversized holes with washers was recommended by the manufacturer as was self adhesive plastic sheet above machines that belch out steam. Poundland sell rolls of this SA plastic, guess how much it is?
Cheers.