Jewellery box mk3.

[devonwoody]

Attempting to get in a couple more boxes before I shut down this year.

Do you recall I posted this photograph of a jewellery box I purchased from a charity shop, going to have a go at a similar design but needs to be taller, the hanging of chains in r/h cupboard is not tall enough after a trial run, (with my necklaces )

Selected these three blocks of timber, some ash, oak and another unknown species.

Chose the red piece and prepared these four boards, nice grain but what timber do you reckon it is (another gift from a neighbour who used to do turning)

Awaiting a small router to work the joints, a deviation from my normal routine, no mitres this time.

 

[devonwoody]

Back to Mk.3, (been messing around with that new router, and working on some routines) anyway prepared the four pieces for the base with mitred corners and set up a dry run as per picture.

Using some lacewood (London Plane) for the base because I do not think that utile will complete the job.

Only a short session today, I reckon we had around 2" of rain and did not fancy getting wet on the trips to the shed.

 

[devonwoody]

more progress, but it is surprising how much work is needed to the base.

Cut mortises on sides of base using the new T4 and my old router jig.

another dry run, round over moulding to front and sides, dado for back panel, and preparation for centre crossbar.

gluing up the base frame (same way as I do those tissue boxes with masking tape to hold in place)

Base frame glued but will need some attention to moulding at back ends, mortises to clean up, rebate for a baseboard, then centre bar to be fitted and some decoration to bottom edge. I said the base was complicated!

The verticals for the box have been worked on as well, half tenons to top and bottoms, done on the tablesaw with sled.

 

[devonwoody]

Still working on the box but rain is keeping me indoors and keeping me out of the damp.

The base has had some modification, the two outside mortises were too long so I have had to plug, see arrows. I am applying a new woodworking rule I learnt the other day, do not inspect my work under 5 ft. otherwise you're out. :roll: (learnt from a router video I watched the other day) Moulding put to top of cabinet piece but not yet worked on its underside yet.

The project is going to slow down, I need to construct the door for the box and it is rather involved. The styles and bearers are inverted at ends, the timber is only around 9mm thick and I am going to do some trial runs on some scrap wood to see if I can duplicate. Any suggestions and advice welcome?

 

[devonwoody]

Quite a bit of progress the past two days, got the top mortises cut to the correct positions as per picture below, I had to go to extreme measures to guide the new T4 router to keep to the correct track, (guide rails either side of face plate was one) and eventually returned to the Triton router and table to complete.

Did another dry run and fitted the parts so far worked on, base, top, upright partitions back panel and door frame.

Drawers are next item to take into consideration at the moment.

 

[monkeybiter]

That's looking good so far DW

 

[Baldhead]

Keep the WIP pics coming DW, this project I really like.

BH

 

[devonwoody]

Pleased that some like the wip on this one.

Had a good day, would you believe it took 90 minutes to get these six dadoes cut, the time was mainly spent setting up the router and putting boards in correct position plus the marking up. Had to use the Triton router to get the accuracy I needed.

Close up.

Did a dry run and fitted the shelves.

Then did that dreaded glue up, took around 35 minutes and things did not look too square.

(Put the square on a few minutes ago and things are going to be OK.)

 

[devonwoody]

Took this photograph this morning because I was keen to know the outcome of the glue up and if I finished with a square and vertical box, pleased to show that my concerns were not justified.

Apologise re the picture quality, (I did have to do a great amount of photoshop manipulation to colour to get a photo.)

I will insert floor & top plates to inside of carcass to ensure some better gluing later.

 

[marcros]

are you not impressed with the t4 then DW?

 

[devonwoody]

are you not impressed with the t4 then DW?

NO.

Under discussion with Axi and Trend at the present time.

 

[devonwoody]

A better photograph of the cabinet still under construction, (door unhinged and waiting further development at present)

Drawer fronts have been prepared but did not put moulding to short edge, I just did not feel comfortable at the router table with such small pieces at the edge, no guard was possible, the longer edge went under the cutter guard OK.

There are four of these boxes and this picture displays a dry run (no base to eachbox yet), I must have cut a least 50 times at the table saw sled holding these pieces and my thumbs ache this morning with the rheumatism. They measure around 100mm x 85mm and 5mm thick. (no dovetails :lol: )

Must try and get the construction work done over the next two days before that winter arrives as forecast.

 

[Mcluma]

A bit more complex then usuall, but definately worth while

 

[Baldhead]

Hi DW

The drawer fronts, are you leaving them square edged or will you try to put an edge on by hand?

Still following and looking forward to the next instalment.

Baldhead

 

[devonwoody]

Hi DW

The drawer fronts, are you leaving them square edged or will you try to put an edge on by hand?

Still following and looking forward to the next instalment.

Baldhead

aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaah, I will see what they look like when the drawers are glued up. I could just apply a round over with the pieces laying flat on the table, its if I had to cut vertically that frightens me.

 

[ColeyS1]

Really enjoyed reading your wip so far- the jewellery box looks great btw !

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 4

 

[monkeybiter]

Re. the drawer fronts, you could use a larger piece of ply/mdf with battens encompassing and restraining the drawer fronts, i.e. a holder to enable safe manipulation at the router table...

In fact if the drawer fronts are going to be fixed to the drawer box with the back face unseen you could even screw through the larger sacrificial piece into the rear/hidden face of the drawer front.

 

[devonwoody]

The drawer fronts are only 5mm thick, I did try one at the router table and its edge broke away and I don't have anymore spare timber if it happens again.

 

[devonwoody]

Glued up the four boxes, nothing special just rebated corners, glued with titebond and dabs of super glue, one needed a bandage :wink:

Fitted the utile fronts, glued and a temporary screw.

First fit, (that's what I call it)

Not having a moulding at the outside edges of boxes is not detracting its finish for me, I will have to dye the lighter woods at drawer positions, they do flash, and further work is needed to maintain alignment.

I am considering putting a layer of glue Titebond to the lower running edges of each box also another layer on the dividing boards letting this dry, then reinserting the boxes with wax on those glued areas. Do you think this would work? (making a sliding surface?)

 

[devonwoody]

Prepared these mouldings from a larger lump of the timber, got them down to around 6mm x 3mm overall. Used the router table, bandsaw, tablesaw and then the block plane..
The are to be used to hold glass in to door frame, hopefully. Getting glass tomorrow.