I think I'm going to need a chainsaw...

[PAC]

After sawing a few logs with a bow saw, I can now see the advantages of a chainsaw. My father has a couple of them but I've never tried to use one. The logs I get from my tree surgeon friend are about 2-3 feet long and up to about 12-14" thick (hassle for a bow saw). I'm considering a small Stihl MS 170 saw with a 14" bar, for about £140. Obviously, I'll need to budget for the safety gear too.

My question is... is it a bad idea to be trying to cut such short lengths of logs (I'm thinking safety here) and is there a preferred method for securing these short lengths, whilst cutting?

 

[Paul.J]

Paul.
Have look at This method.

 

[sooty]

I have 2 chainsaws both with 16inch bars one is petrol the other electric if I am cutting logs in my garden I use the electric chainsaw much quieter and more neighbour friendly and I dont have to wear ear muffs.

For holding the logs I use a piece of 6in x 2in x 2ft long I screw a piece of 2in x2in to the underside so I can clamp it in my workmate then screw 2 pieces of scrap sacraficial wood to the sides of the 6 x 2 to form a trough then lay the logs in the trough for cutting this holds logs up to 10in very well.
I have another one using 4in x 2in for smaller logs i.e. up to 6in round
I have found this method very stable.

Phil

 

[PAC]

Thanks guys, that's helped a lot.

 

[dickm]

Agree with using an electric saw if you have neighbours. There's some pretty good ones on the market now, from what I can see. Mine's a 110v Macullough 16" bought from the US - probably runs 50/60 of the speed that it should, but works fine and should be slightly safer than 250V.
For holding, the usual thing is a saw horse - three pairs of wooden Xs, just far enough apart to get the saw between at least one pair of them. Can either cut with the log projecting over the end, or between the Xs.
You can buy metal sawhorses, with proper hold-down devices, but no idea how good they are and they'd be a bit unforgiving to the chain. Best to regard the wooden horse as expendable.
And whatever you do, don't forget the safety gear.

 

[Dean]

My neighbour loves the sound of my chainsaw, she joins in and bangs the fence in perfect time, bless her.

As Dickm says, get your self decent horse to cut on, build it to suit your comfort, you don't want to be stretching at silly angles with a chainsaw, make sure you get a file the matches the pitch of your chain,
files are a doddle to use, it only takes a couple of minuites before every use, even if its just a tickle, your problems will start if you neglect the chain, it's a hard enough job to do without the extra grief caused by a blunt chain, and don't let the noise panick you into rushing the job, relax but never let your mind wonder and tell anyone near not to distract you while the chainsaw is running, have fun Pac :lol:

 

[dickm]

files are a doddle to use, it only takes a couple of minuites before every use, even if its just a tickle, your problems will start if you neglect the chain, it's a hard enough job to do without the extra grief caused by a blunt chain,

Yes, a sharp chain is essential. But I must have had the wrong files or the wrong technique, 'cos I've never found using them a doddle .
Have taken the lazy way out with a 12v sharpener. Well, it was only 20p from a carboot sale

 

[Dean]

files are a doddle to use, it only takes a couple of minuites before every use, even if its just a tickle, your problems will start if you neglect the chain, it's a hard enough job to do without the extra grief caused by a blunt chain,

Yes, a sharp chain is essential. But I must have had the wrong files or the wrong technique, 'cos I've never found using them a doddle .
Have taken the lazy way out with a 12v sharpener. Well, it was only 20p from a carboot sale

I get the files from a local place that only sells and repairs chainsaws, strimmers,lawn mowers and that kind of stuff, I always ask for the right file when I buy a new chain, I think the last file I bought was £3.00 unhandled, it's no good asking for one at B&Q, they'll just give you a lampshade, a square file or a blank look :lol:

 

[Anonymous]

Just curious Dean, do you use it freehand or with an Oregon style guide?

 

[Dean]

Just curious Dean, do you use it freehand or with an Oregon style guide?

Hi Graham, always freehand mate, I don't know any other way .

A few years back I asked a mate who's a tree surgen for one of his old chains because the chains I had been buying at the time didn't last 5 minuites At the time I thought they were disposable :lol: :lol:

Anyway, when he'd finished laughing and pipping the riss out out of me he explained a bit about chains and sharpening. I was never shown how to do it though, it just seems like comon sense if you look at the teeth on a chain, I can't see how to get it wrong if you have the right file.
I've been cutting 22" walnut down the grane with no trouble.

 

[Anonymous]

If it works and is safe it has to be a good'n :wink:

 

[Dean]

Here's some pics Graham, not to good though but It's the closest my little camera will go :roll:

Ignore the blocks and clamp,I just follow the original bevel on the inside with steady light forward strokes on the file, I do all the one side then do the other side, see it's a doddle

Here's some walnaut I cut with my chainsaw last week, fairly straight cuts ready for the bandsaw

and some more, there's more around the corner, and in the next shed, and in the workshop

 

[Anonymous]

Thanks for the pix Dean... simple and effective!

 

[dickm]

Thanks for the pix Dean... simple and effective!

... but I'm still not going to be weaned off my Oregon battery powered sharpener

 

[sooty]

Dean Wrote

Here's some walnaut I cut with my chainsaw last week, fairly straight cuts ready for the bandsaw

How on earth do you cut so straight with a chainsaw?
Do you use a jig of some kind?

Phil

 

[big soft moose]

Dean Wrote

Here's some walnaut I cut with my chainsaw last week, fairly straight cuts ready for the bandsaw

How on earth do you cut so straight with a chainsaw?
Do you use a jig of some kind?

Phil

with a sharp chain on a powerful saw it is fairly easy to rip down the grain (particularly on green wood) - I just draw a chalk line and do it by eye.

the key is frequent sharpening with a dremel attachment to keep the chain razor sharp and a chopping block with a V cut it it to hold the log steady.

 

[Dean]

Dean Wrote

Here's some walnaut I cut with my chainsaw last week, fairly straight cuts ready for the bandsaw

How on earth do you cut so straight with a chainsaw?
Do you use a jig of some kind?

Phil

If I have large pieces to cut like the walnut I mark it all the way round then score 2-3 inches into the wood first, then I just carry on at a nice steady pace.

 

[sooty]

Thanks for the tip I will have to try that the next time I use my chainsaw

Phil

 

[big soft moose]

Paul

Ive got a chainsaw (several infact) and safety gear etc so when i come up to lancaster in a couple of weeks I'd be happy to bring one and go over the basics with you and/or convert some of your wood for you.

Pete

 

[PAC]

Paul

Ive got a chainsaw (several infact) and safety gear etc so when i come up to lancaster in a couple of weeks I'd be happy to bring one and go over the basics with you and/or convert some of your wood for you.

Pete

Cheers, Pete, that sounds like a great idea.