I just won this

[Pvt_Ryan]

Was it a good deal?
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... 500wt_1156

Ryan

 

[mtt.tr]

hahaha Errrm yer i would be more than happy to pay £16 for that as it looks mint and damn you for taking the bargains lol

 

[AndyT]

I think it has plastic handles, which puts it into 1970s or later - but that does not necessarily mean that it won't perform very nicely - mine does!

 

[Pvt_Ryan]

I was raging... I was watching a 1940s (or perhaps earlier) one today it didnt sell but the missus had me out shopping so i missed the chance to bid.

 

[big soft moose]

I was raging... I was watching a 1940s (or perhaps earlier) one today it didnt sell but the missus had me out shopping so i missed the chance to bid.

should have used a sniper like goofbay or justsnipe

but hey plenty more bargains out there

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Stanley-Bailey-No ... 35ace09c4e

 

[Pvt_Ryan]

what other plane should I get to start me off?

I was looking at a no 5 & 7

 

[jimi43]

what other plane should I get to start me off?

I was looking at a no 5 & 7

The one I used most as a "jack" is the No. 4 1/2 simply because it is heavier and I like the extra weight. I also use my No.5 a lot and my No.7

Other than that...I think I have fallen in love with my Spiers 8)

Jim

 

[Pvt_Ryan]

I have seen your spiers and i want it.. smashing job on the restore

 

[mtt.tr]

Im personally after a 4 1/2 as they have a wider blade

 

[jimi43]

Im personally after a 4 1/2 as they have a wider blade

Spot on!

I often wonder why the cardinals sold more than the halves...the halves are invariably better than their smaller cousins.

The No.4 1/2 is ideal in that it is as handy as the No.4 but with the whoomph of the No.5

Same with the No. 5 1/2

I would go with the halves every time.

Jim

 

[Pvt_Ryan]

So am I better off getting a 51/2 instead of a 5?

I wasnt really aware of the differences on than what I have read (4=smoothing, 5=jack. etc)

 

[jimi43]

So am I better off getting a 51/2 instead of a 5?

I wasnt really aware of the differences on than what I have read (4=smoothing, 5=jack. etc)

That's my view but really it is down to using them and seeing what is right for you and what you use them for.

This little baby was a cheap bootfair restoration jobbie:

It didn't start out that way but restoration jobs mean you get to understand the tool in a way no other process gives you....

Few quid the whole lot and you can practice for next to nothing

Jim

 

[warrenr]

Hi Ryan,

You have to start somewhere and e-bay is why I began to acquire my bench planes and you can get hooked. I learnt to look for neglected rather than shiny looking models which are often newish and of dubious quality. I have found much better quality planes at auctions and at a local car boot sale which has a regular old tool seller. You can see what you are buying; planes bought on e-bay are generally OK but sometimes are broken (handles badly damaged, soles cracked, frogs broken).

Look for older Record and Stanley planes. Look at the length of blade left, damage to the mouth, check the flatness of the sole with a good straight edge. Older and better planes tend to be heavier so it is good to be able to compare; avoid plastic handles. There are plenty of threads on this site and guides on dating Record and Stanley planes on the internet.

Over twenty pounds including pp is expensive. I would buy a No 5 or 5 1/2 plus a No. 7 next but expect to pay more for the 7. I prefer the 5 1/2 to the 5.

This looks a good option for the No.7 but it will probably go for about 40.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... ESINDXX:IT

All the best
Richard

 

[Pvt_Ryan]

The No 4 just arrived can anyone help date it please?

looking at http://homepage.mac.com/galoot_9/ascii_ ... chart.html

I think it is a type 19 (1948-61)
or perhaps 8-9 (though I doubt it)
I don't know the answer to the raise ring question

The handles are wooden. see pics below:

I can just about make out a 3 on the left and the right an "IX" below the IX it looks like "oC" but I can't quite make it out.

I am assuming this is part of the original plane but as it's removable I don't know for sure.

 

[warrenr]

Hi Ryan

Couple of useful sites for dating stanley planes:
http://www.hansbrunnertools.gil.com.au/ ... ey%202.htm

and
http://homepage.mac.com/galoot_9/ascii_ ... chart.html

Richard

 

[Pvt_Ryan]

Damn i edited it a few times I think you posted in the middle of that..

Please can you read the top part of my last post again.

 

[Vann]

The Stanley plane dating sites that I'm aware of really only work for USA made Stanleys.

Yours has a plated steel depth-adjuster wheel and yoke, with aluminium nuts on the wooden handles. It's the same as my first one which I bought brand new in 1973. A few years earlier and the wheel and nuts would be brass. Ditto a few years later, but the lateral adjuster would be folded from a single piece of steel.

You also appear to have a bonus piece of wire wrapped around the yoke.

HTH.

Cheers, Vann.

 

[Pvt_Ryan]

Unfortunately I ran out of high grade paper at 1200grit while sharpening so I have to await the delivery of my 1500+ grits to finish the blade though a quick test showed it at least cuts now.

Looks like the handle has split near the base. I think I either need to buy a new one or make one.. No cash for the former and no cash or enough skill for the latter.. damn..

If anyone has instructions on how to make one I would be grateful also if they can recommend what wood to use, I am thinking I'll keep this plane for life so if I find so spare cash in the near future I would be willing to get decent wood for the parts.

Stripped the handles to clean them up

while stripping I found this on the handle under the finish looks like "Smith" and I think there is a letter "I" before it but I cant be sure.

 

[MIGNAL]

Try gluing the handle, after all what is there to lose?

 

[Pvt_Ryan]

true... I think i'll give that a whirl. worst case is I break it getting the glue in, best case is I get a few extra uses out of the plane before the handle goes.