I have made shavings!

[billiards]

Finally got my lathe, after the first one went missing in the post! Yes, hard to believe I know. :lol:

Couple of quick questions if I may:

What are the signs that you are turning your wood at the correct speed? Or maybe the question would be better asked the other way around.

And, should the drive centres four contact points be sharp? The reason I ask, is that a piece of wood I was turning, stopped revolving during a small cut, and the drive centre just bored a small hole. (I have just re-read this question, and it may not make any sense )

When I have spent a bit more time on it, I will write a review of the lathe. It certainly has its good AND bad points. :shock:

BTW, I have read through the Keith Rowley book a couple of times, and unless I am blind, I cannot find the answers to my above questions in it. If they are in there, then I humbly apologise.

 

[Bodrighy]

What are the signs that you are turning your wood at the correct speed? Or maybe the question would be better asked the other way around.
.

As a rule of thumb, the bigger the piece of wood, the slower the speed, this will change with experience. Also if you are working off centre, where the wood is not centred up and the lathe seems to vibrate, slow down. Personally I find that the faster you go the easier it is to turn the wood but that's just me. Working at a speed that you feel safe at is the mmost important factor.

And, should the drive centres four contact points be sharp? The reason I ask, is that a piece of wood I was turning, stopped revolving during a small cut, and the drive centre just bored a small hole. (I have just re-read this question, and it may not make any sense )
.

Yes they should. It could be that you haven't tightened up the tailstock enough. Also some woods are rock hard and the drive centre doesn't easily peetrat. Before putting it on the lathe, either drill a little hole in the centre or knock it in with a hammer, not too hard. Don't do this on the lathe, you can ruin your bearings

Others will be along with their advice. Most of them more knowledgable than me so if they disagree, go along with what they say

Pete

 

[greybeard]

'The correct speed' question is almost as emotive as 'what's the best way to sharpen?'!!

But here's my usual rule of thumbs FWIW.

Always spin the work completely by hand before switching on - sounds obvious, but easy to forget or assume that it'll be ok. Ha!!
It's also a way of double-checking that you've taken up the slack with the tailstock!

If it's an obviously unbalanced lump start with the lowest possible speed and stand well clear when you switch it on. Approach with extreme caution and take very small 'nibbles'. Stop frequently to check progress until it begins to approach a roundish shape.

If it's a small log sort of shape that is nominally round, with nothing sticking out (like bits of branch!), anything between 500 and 1,000 is probably ok - start at the low end - your own experience will quickly give you the feel for the 'best' speed.

If it's a nice piece of kiln-dried square cross-section you're about to shave to a cylinder the same applies - i.e. start at up to 1,000.

Don't worry too much about the speed, there's no hard and fast rule. Your own experience will very quickly teach you the speed(s) you feel comfortable with. Just be cautious for the first few times - and don't ever forget to spin the work manually before switching the lathe on!

Vibration is bad!! If it's a really unbalanced piece it'll sound and possibly feel like it's trying to rip the lathe off its bench/mounts. Stop the lathe immediately and try to cut off the more obviously unbalanced bits.
This is one of those experiences that it's seldom necessary to experience more than once - a good example of Darwinian principles in action!

Pete's got the right of it - you need to feel safe whatever the speed tuns out to be.

 

[CHJ]

And, should the drive centres four contact points be sharp? The reason I ask, is that a piece of wood I was turning, stopped revolving during a small cut, and the drive centre just bored a small hole. ....BTW, I have read through the Keith Rowley book a couple of times, and unless I am blind, I cannot find the answers to my above questions in it.

Page 55-56 shows centering the piece and making sure drive centre is firmly imprinted into the end of the wood.

Re-read Law1 page 45-46.

:lol:

 

[jaymar]

I turned a handle on a piece of old oak to use as a mallet to drive the four prongs into the oiece you are going to turn. If you use a hammer you will soon find that the taper on the drive has been damaged. It is also important to re-tighten the tail stock as you turn often, especially with softer wood

 

[TEP]

Hi Billiards.

What is probably happening is you are cutting too heavy while the timber is still uneven. If you can imagine all the shocks of the tool hitting the wood being transmitted to the drive center it is bound to come loose. Once you get a bit more practice in you will automatically reach out and tighten the tail center to compensate.

While the blank is unbalanced/uneven cut very lightly (less shock) as it comes into balance/smooth you can increase the cut size.

The answer of course is practice, Practice, and more PRACTICE.

Good luck, stick with it and it won't be long when you are turning like the rest of us.

PS; if you ever make a table lamp you can use the boring technique of the drive center slipping to bore the hole in the base of the lamp where the cable turns. :lol:

 

[Paul.J]

Hello Billiards.
Think it's all been said.
It will all come together one day. :roll:
Be interested in your comments on the lathe as i was going to get that one.
Paul.J.

 

[billiards]

It is also important to re-tighten the tail stock as you turn often, especially with softer wood

Once you get a bit more practice in you will automatically reach out and tighten the tail center to compensate.

Thanks guys. These comments make good sense in retrospect.

Be interested in your comments on the lathe as i was going to get that one.

I was going to wait until I had used it for awhile, however, it may be better to do a 'first impresssions' review, and then add to it as issues arise (Or not )