how

[cowboy682]

hi all
how is this done? l know how the writing is done, but is the wood bent first or what need to make some thing like this just to try it any idea`s???

found another picture of the bowed name

 

[martinka]

Where's the image from? It might be possible to follow it up.
I like the way the lower case letters don't touch the base.

Martin.

 

[cowboy682]

Hi Martin
the only place l know of is npt model club, it`s on a cd that l have got thats all l know

 

[stevebuk]

Boil or soak after cutting wood then hold in place until dry..

 

[kkartz1]

Cut the timber as usual so you are left with a `U` shaped wood template and then cut the internals as usual. Bear in mind that you do not have a lot of wood in surface contact with the base plate so go very very easy.

 

[martinka]

Cut the timber as usual so you are left with a `U` shaped wood template and then cut the internals as usual. Bear in mind that you do not have a lot of wood in surface contact with the base plate so go very very easy.

That was my first thought, but you can see from the angle of the edges of the letters that it wasn't cut that way. My second thought was Steve's way, but not knowing much (nothing actually) about how wet wood behaves, I didn't know whether it would eventually regain its original shape. I can think of a way to do it with a jig on the table so that you are cutting with the top half of the blade, though I don't know how easy/difficult it would be in practice.

Martin.

 

[cowboy682]

thanks Steve
l think that must be the way to go, never thought of that,
how`s the new saw? have you mastered it yet?

 

[Chippygeoff]

I go along with Steve. I did boat building for many years and quite often we would steam timbers in a pipe of water and then they would bend very easily to the contour of the boat. It does not work with all types of timber. If I were to make that sign today I would make a former, like a wooden template and then bend the name to the template with clamps.

 

[cowboy682]

Hi Geoff
which wood would you use l was thinking a soft wood like pine about 3/4 to 1 ich

 

[Chippygeoff]

I have never steamed pine but being a soft wood I would imagine it would be okay, the thicker the timber the longer it needs steaming but again, I can give no time for this but would say half an hour in the steamer should be about right. Be nice to see how you get on.

 

[scrimper]

I started life as a boat-building apprentice but due to the fact that I had to travel to Oxford on the train and the fare cost more than my wages I did not do it for long!
We used to steam wood too I remember; not sure now cos it's a long time ago but I think it was some sort of mahogany. I know that Ash steams and bends very well, I don't think that pine/spruce does but I suppose it's always worth a try.

Wood is strange stuff I once soaked a piece of spruce then compressed it to half it's depth to fit through a small mortice, I left it for several days and it regained about 90% of it's previous size. (in case you are wondering, it was a puzzle piece) .

 

[powertools]

Sorry to be the odd one out but I don't think that you could bend it after cutting it out due to the different thickness in the various sections.

 

[scrimper]

Sorry to be the odd one out but I don't think that you could bend it after cutting it out due to the different thickness in the various sections.

I think you are correct, it would be very difficult especially with the 'floating' letters, only way of bending after cutting would be to clamp wood either side of the cut piece and steam and bend the whole lot.

 

[Spindle]

Hi

Looking at the grain pattern the wood has been cut in a curve before scrolling the detail, I'm fairly sure no bending has taken place.

Regards Mick

 

[stevebuk]

thanks Steve
l think that must be the way to go, never thought of that,
how`s the new saw? have you mastered it yet?

hi graham,
yes i have got to grips with the saw now, just a few teething problems i needed to clarify , the sawing wasn't a problem, it was other bits..
I quite like the hegner, its a lot smaller than my delta, table is really small and only aluminium too, and the speed isn't as fast but i am getting on ok with it, i have put one of my delta's in a cupboard for a later day..

Thanks for asking..

 

[martinka]

Steve, I don't know if the table on yours is the same as mine was, but machining marks were visible all over the table. This is probably not something you want to do to a new saw anyway, but I spent some time on mine with wet and dry and got rid of the marks. It made a big difference to the feel of the table. Having said that, the polished and waxed plywood top I made for it feels even better.

Martin.

 

[stevebuk]

i looked at your top martin and i was impressed by it thinking i would like to make one for mine, how easy is it to change blades with the bigger table?

 

[JimiJimi]

I'm not sure if the curve is too deep, but could all the lettering have been cut out first and then the curve cut afterwards on both sides, using something other than a scroll saw? Not sure how this could have been done accurately though.

 

[cowboy682]

this is what they say on Steve Good`s forum

Cut it first. Put the cutting into a pan of water and boil it for about 5 or 10 minutes. Basically forcing the air out of the pores and letting the water in. Take it out of the water with tongs and go to the shop, wrap the wood around a 3# coffee can or something even larger diameter CAREFULLY and either wrap tape or a very large rubber band around the wood forcing it into a curve. Holding it in the curve around the can, let it dry for a day or two (at least overnight) so that the water gets out and air gets back in, and release the tape or rubber band and it will hold a curve. It may spring out to a larger radius but, it will be close. Maybe one of the wifes sauce pans or something larger would be better than a coffee can.
There are areas that look prone to cracking but the softer the wood (think pine) the easier it will be to make it curve.
Hope that helps.

 

[martinka]

i looked at your top martin and i was impressed by it thinking i would like to make one for mine, how easy is it to change blades with the bigger table?

Steve, the only difference is that I have to lift and slide the top back a couple of inches so that I can insert the blade clamp into the holder at the side of the table. It adds all of 2 seconds to the time.

Martin.