I checked out some videos from the a different place placeon sharpening saws ,just wondering do you do it in a different way,also do you need different size files for different size saws,how long do the files last,thanks
How you sharpen saws
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xy mosian
Established Member
Strangely I sharpened my trusty Spear and Jackson 14" brass backed saw just yesterday.
My own take on it, bearing in mind this saw is sharpened for rip cutting along the grain.
The corner of the file does most of the work, get one with its sides about twice the tooth depth, that way you get to use all the corners. When I file I don't use a long stroke, get a double ended file. My local tool shop provided a 'Saw sharpening file', I'll bet he doesn't sell many but it's just the job. Use a felt tip marker to mark the teeth before you start, that way you'll not end up wondering where you got to if broken off. Clamp the blade, by whatever means quite near to the teeth, this will reduce vibrations which will not only let your file live longer but will be easier on your ears. Try and arrange to hold the saw at elbow height, it's easier on your back. For me, this is essential these days, some sort of magnification is needed, I use a magnifier with built in lamp. Count the number of strokes of the file so that each tooth gets the same treatment. When setting the saw don't set a tooth 'back on itself' that is in the opposite direction to its present direction, they break off. How long does a file last? I cannot answer that question, I have three and use the one with reasonable bite.
As a matter of interest once set up I did, an unhurried sharp and set in about 30-40 minutes. Then I checked the saw, "Is it cutting straight?", and lightly stoned one side of the blade. Job done.
xy
My own take on it, bearing in mind this saw is sharpened for rip cutting along the grain.
The corner of the file does most of the work, get one with its sides about twice the tooth depth, that way you get to use all the corners. When I file I don't use a long stroke, get a double ended file. My local tool shop provided a 'Saw sharpening file', I'll bet he doesn't sell many but it's just the job. Use a felt tip marker to mark the teeth before you start, that way you'll not end up wondering where you got to if broken off. Clamp the blade, by whatever means quite near to the teeth, this will reduce vibrations which will not only let your file live longer but will be easier on your ears. Try and arrange to hold the saw at elbow height, it's easier on your back. For me, this is essential these days, some sort of magnification is needed, I use a magnifier with built in lamp. Count the number of strokes of the file so that each tooth gets the same treatment. When setting the saw don't set a tooth 'back on itself' that is in the opposite direction to its present direction, they break off. How long does a file last? I cannot answer that question, I have three and use the one with reasonable bite.
As a matter of interest once set up I did, an unhurried sharp and set in about 30-40 minutes. Then I checked the saw, "Is it cutting straight?", and lightly stoned one side of the blade. Job done.
xy
Alf
Established Member
Hi,
the best piece about saw sharpening I read in the last year is this blog entry from Andrew Lunn, whose sharpening skills are highly valued by Popular Woodworking Magazine:
http://eccentrictoolworks.com/2010/06/1 ... ams-razor/
In short: Andrew tells not to sharpen every other tooth than turn arround and sharpen eyery other tooth, but to sharpen all teeth in line. I did this all the time for rip cut saws and doing it for crosscut saws since I read the blog entry.
Allways found a little guilty not to do as Taran teaches but it worked fine for me. And for some professionell saw maker and saw sharpener answering to Andrew's blog entry:
Leif Hanson, Ed Paik, Marv Werner. That probably means a few thousand saws filed the easy way.
Cheers
Pedder
the best piece about saw sharpening I read in the last year is this blog entry from Andrew Lunn, whose sharpening skills are highly valued by Popular Woodworking Magazine:
http://eccentrictoolworks.com/2010/06/1 ... ams-razor/
In short: Andrew tells not to sharpen every other tooth than turn arround and sharpen eyery other tooth, but to sharpen all teeth in line. I did this all the time for rip cut saws and doing it for crosscut saws since I read the blog entry.
Allways found a little guilty not to do as Taran teaches but it worked fine for me. And for some professionell saw maker and saw sharpener answering to Andrew's blog entry:
Leif Hanson, Ed Paik, Marv Werner. That probably means a few thousand saws filed the easy way.
Cheers
Pedder
Alf
Established Member
Oh, I'm not saying Pete Taran's is the be-all and end-all (Although it worked as a damn good starting place for me, so I have a fondness for it), but it does give a clear idea of file sizes.
I've done all the teeth from one side quite a few times - and felt guilty about it - so it's rather nice to find out there's all this closet one-sided saw filing going on. Thanks for the link.
I've done all the teeth from one side quite a few times - and felt guilty about it - so it's rather nice to find out there's all this closet one-sided saw filing going on. Thanks for the link.
bugbear
Established Member
pedder":qlfqoek1 said:
Rip teeth - hell, yeah, and retooth/reshape too.
Dealing with fleam would seem to involve a fairly radical change in hand position, and possibly body posture, for each tooth.
But given the people that appear to vouch for its merit, I'll give it a go.
BugBear
Hi Paul,
I would give it a try. The advantage is, you don't hav to deal with cows and calves, and you pull (or push) the fille to the toothbrest all the time.
I need a sheet of paper with the fleam lines on both sides of the saw, though.
If one want to file progressive rake, filing all teeth from one side is probably the only way to do.
Cheers
Pedder
I would give it a try. The advantage is, you don't hav to deal with cows and calves, and you pull (or push) the fille to the toothbrest all the time.
I need a sheet of paper with the fleam lines on both sides of the saw, though.
If one want to file progressive rake, filing all teeth from one side is probably the only way to do.
Cheers
Pedder
Jeff Gorman
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You might like to try a look at
http://tinyurl.com/35no6kj
The close-up drawings of the teeth might help you to know what to look for as you work.
Jeff
[email protected]
http://tinyurl.com/35no6kj
The close-up drawings of the teeth might help you to know what to look for as you work.
Jeff
[email protected]
bugbear
Established Member
Jeff Gorman":3rehj7dm said:
This page by Friedrich Kollenrott (first shown me by pedder) has some of the best drawings and photographs of teeth before/during/after sharpening I've seen.
http://www.woodworking.de/schaerfprojek ... rfen1.html
Sadly, the text is only useful if you understand German, which I don't.
BugBear
bugbear":3ih05ct4 said:
Hi Paul,
Did you try google translator? It'd gotten extremly better over the last two years. If Friedrich would have written a little easier German, it would work perfectly.
But than, Friedrich wrote this because there was no german vintagesaws.
Cheers Pedder
bugbear
Established Member
pedder":1snoapy9 said:
I started to make an English transcription(checks file date - Jan 2008!), based on google + babelfish, but gave up.
I know; but I think this is a case of the pupil excelling the master.
The only objection to it as a tutorial for a beginner is that the wealth of detail might be intimidating.
BugBear
