How to make a wall hanging 'slot'?...

[drillbit]

Not sure if that is the correct term.

I've made a shelf with two wooden brackets. I want to make a hole in the back of each bracket so I can 'hang' it on a screw in the wall - like this...

I don't really want to use a plastic insert like this - just wanted to do it directly in the wood. Is there a technique? I've bodged something rough before by drilling a larger hole at an angle, and then using a smaller drillbit to 'rout' out the smaller section. But I have access to a router now, and I'm hoping there may be a better method...

Many thanks..

 

[MickCheese]

I think there is a router bit especially for this.

Is it trend?

Will look and find the link.

Mick

 

[RogerP]

Keyhole router bit

 

[MickCheese]

And here is one from Trend

http://www.trend-uk.com/en/UK/product/35_0X1_4TC/4/118/keyhole_slotter.html

Mick

 

[Argus]

.

As an alternative to the expensive router bit, (plus the dust and racket), you can get a brass mirror plate version of the palstic collar thing you showed that screws flat onto the back of whatever you are hanging.
http://www.screwmaster.co.uk/keyhole-mi ... -105-p.asp

Basically it features the keyhole slot that you need. Available in various sizes in pairs for a few quid.

You will need to mark it up, drill two shallow flat bottomed holes side by side the diameter of the larger part of the keyhole slot deep enough to accomodate the screw head and chisel then together free hand to make an oval slot.
Screw the plate over the top and hang it on the wall................

I use these to hang wall clock cabinets - all very secure.

.

 

[Stormer1940]

or you can get metal alternatives to plastic ones. You would however still need to have a recess for the screw.....

http://comptools.co.uk/store/hettich-ke ... 35512.html

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Yes, escutcheons for euro locks are handy.

 

[drillbit]

Perfect - thanks all for the replies.

I like the idea of that router bit, but at £30 I can't really justify it for the usage it would get...shame.

So I think I know the name for what I am searching for now....keyhole escutcheon?

Thanks all..

 

[petermillard]

So I think I know the name for what I am searching for now....keyhole escutcheon?

Or 'Keyhole Plate' - Isaac Lord also do them e.g.here; metal plate has to be stronger too, surely??

 

[The Bear]

The wealdon cutter is about £12, not sure why you need to pay £30.

Mark

 

[Steve Maskery]

It is quite possible to do this without spending a penny, although I confess it wasn't me who has actually done this.
I remember my dad having a wooden plasterer's* float where the handle was held on by two screws in slots. The slots were cut directly into the wood.
IIRC, and we are going back to my childhood here, he drilled a blind hole for the head of the screw, and a couple of smaller holes for the shank of the screw. He then sharpened up a countersink screw and just worked it back and forth until it cut its own undercut channel. I bet you could chuck it in a cordless drill.
Be sure to use a screw that has a plain shank. A traditional woodscrew would do, but a modern pozi would have the thread going right up to the head and I think that might do too much damage.
As I said, I've not done it, but I know it is possible.

*That is to say, a plasterer's float made of wood, rather than a float for a wooden plasterer...

 

[Hitch]

I seem to recall somewhere that does round versions of those plates, simply drill a hole with a forstner bit and screw on. Or two holes if the plate need be flush.

I have in the past made my own heavy duty ones at work, simply punched out of sheet for bigger jobs.

Then, I bought a keyhole router bit, and made a simple jig.
Only need do about 50 slots and its paid for with the saving of buying hardware.
It works very well in hardwoods, and looks very neat too.

 

[Jacob]

It is quite possible to do this without pending a penny, although I confess it wasn't me who has actually done this.
I remember my dad having a wooden plasterer's float where the handle was held on by two screws in slots. The slots were cut directly into the wood.
IIRC, and we are going back to my childhood here, He drilled a blind hole for the head of the screw, and a couple of smaller holes for the shank of the screw. He then sharpened up a countersink screw and just worked it back and forth until it cut its own undercut channel. I bet you could chuck it in a cordless drill.
Be sure to use a screw that has a plain shank. A traditional woodscrew wold do, but a modern posi would have the thread going right up to the head and I think that might do too much damage.
As I said, I've not done it, but I know it is possible.

This "slotted screw fixing" was a common method for joining boards. As Steve describes above, a big hole for the head and a small one for the shank. Join them up with a small chisel to get the keyhole shape. Work the screw head to make a slot. If you then want a tight permanent fix you tighten the screw half a turn and then hammer it home. Just about impossible to separate.
Works well on board edges with a slotted screw every 10" or so. Would work well for a hanging screw. You only get one shot at it if the screw is too tight - will bend and be impossible to reverse.

Shown here - scroll down to figs 365, 366

 

[drillbit]

@Mark you are right. The first link didn't work for me, so I only saw the 30quid version. But there are many cheaper - Axminster have one under a tenner.

@Steve & Jacob- I like the sound of that approach a lot. I'm going to try it as soon as I can (on some waste wood first might be wise I think...) .

 

[woodbloke]

This is how it's done, you don't need anything except a drill and router bit...or a chisel the right width will do:
1. Drill a hole slightly bigger than the head of the screw (countersunk) about 7mm deep
2. Above this hole, rout/chisel a slot (about 12mm long) which is 6mm deep and equal to the width of the shank of the screw being used
3. Take a sample of the screw and insert it into a block of hardwood so the screw head is exactly 6mm above the surface
4. Now upend the block with the screwhead in the hole and hit the block with hammer... as the block moves up the slot, the countersunk screw head will now cut a channel into the sides of the slot, 6mm deep.
5. Remove the block and screw
6. When the wall is drilled the screwhead needs to be exactly 6mm out from the wall...the unit will then drop directly onto the screws and just needs to be tapped into place and as it does so, it will locate onto the grooves cut with the block.

Simples - Rob

 

[Mike Wingate]

I bought my router bit from MLCS.