How Should I Do This Procedure On The Table Saw?

[pollys13]

I bought an Axminster taper jig which can be used on the band saw and the table saw. See attached screenshots.
I'm using the taper jig to cut 9 degree wedges to make up a jig for the thicknesser to have a crack at making window cills, using this method, at first.
I intend to use the chop saw to make trench cuts in the base of the jig for the wedges that I will screw and glue in place.
I'm posting on the forum, as I want to be sure I'm using the taper jig correctly and safely.
I have a short fence on the table saw to avoid kickback. In Axminsters photo of the taper jig, they have it riding on the long fence?
Also any advice on using the taper jig on the band saw?
Cheers.

 

[Noel]

Firstly, find a bin and throw that taper jig in it. Don't mean to be too harsh but it is rubbish, too light weight, too flimsy and the fastening wingnut and arc are, in my view, unreliable, difficult to use and unsafe.
Make your own, ply or solid timber, quick and simple or a more complex example.
Regarding your fence, the jig needs a long and solid surface to bear against so the longer the fence the better.

Quick and simple- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FOVhDBE2kIk
Bit more developed: http://www.finewoodworking.com/2006/10/ ... pering-jig

 

[tomatwark]

I have to agree with Noel.

That jig does look down right dangerous, do as Noel says and make one.

 

[Steve Maskery]

+1

 

[Doug B]

Another here that agrees with Noel but on the bright side Axminster has a good returns policy

 

[Peter Sefton]

I would cut the 9 degrees taper on the bandsaw and cut it along the length of a piece of timber by tilting the bed, not individual wedges across the 9 degrees slope.

We covered all this on the first two days of the wood machining course with several samples of window making, what a shame you only came for the third day

Cheers Peter

 

[pollys13]

OK thanks people.
Back it goes to Axminster

 

[RobinBHM]

The jig I made for a 9 degree cill bevel on a thicknesser was made from a solid piece of sapele.

To make it I bevelled piece of timber about 50 x 25 and screwed it to the underside of the sapele board, then ran it through the thicknesser until the board had a full 9 degree bevel across the face. Working out the size of the strip of timber is done by drawing it out full size, or you can work it out using trigonometry.

On the first cut or so through the thicknesser there is a tendency for the board to want to rise up due to the feed rollers, but once a flat is formed the rest is straghtforward.

(plenty of triangle solvers on the internet including some app for smart phones, ie android 'right angled triangle solver')

There's more than one way to skin a cat in this game

 

[pollys13]

There's more than one way to skin a cat in this game.
OK thanks Robin

 

[Steve Maskery]

I think that that FWW jig is pretty good. What he doesn't mention, however, is that once you have cut one taper, in order to do the opposite face you have to shim the workpiece out to compensate for the taper that has already been cut. Either shim or reposition the block.

 

[Noel]

Another thing that I disliked with Alu jig was, especially with thinner pieces, was how close the handle was to the blade on occasion. Whereas with a shopmade jig you can keep hands well away from the blade.

I think that that FWW jig is pretty good. What he doesn't mention, however, is that once you have cut one taper, in order to do the opposite face you have to shim the workpiece out to compensate for the taper that has already been cut. Either shim or reposition the block.

Was thinking that man Steve is blind or something, it's in the **** video...
But I posted the wrong FWW link. : ( Sorry for calling you whatever I called you in my head...)
Here is the one, which covers Steve's point about doing a further taper cut:

http://www.finewoodworking.com/2012/09/ ... and-faster

 

[ColeyS1]

If you need a repeatable 9 degree wedge, just draw it out on a scrap of mdf (like I did when I made the sash wedges.

Don't worry about cutting a too straight a line- providing the front and back points of the jig are in contact in the wedge material (I went ott demonstrating it) then you'll be fine.
Flip the wedge material over and cut again.

You could add a handle if you wanted to be extra safe.

Coley

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

 

[pollys13]

Coley to the rescue again, thanks mate

 

[pollys13]

I would cut the 9 degrees taper on the bandsaw and cut it along the length of a piece of timber by tilting the bed, not individual wedges across the 9 degrees slope.

We covered all this on the first two days of the wood machining course with several samples of window making, what a shame you only came for the third day

Cheers Peter

Thanks Peter,
I got your hand plane DVD the other day and I enjoyed your timber selection DVD.

 

[geoffshep]

Haven't worked out what you are trying to do window-wise, but as someone said about about skinning cats, I made this taper jig which works pretty well:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H7QWLfcEsz4

 

[ColeyS1]

If you look hard enough you'll probably find a commercial jig/tool for every job. It's where to stop though. Most of the time wooden equivalents can be made for pence with a little patience.
Coley

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

 

[pollys13]

If you look hard enough you'll probably find a commercial jig/tool for every job. It's where to stop though. Most of the time wooden equivalents can be made for pence with a little patience.
Coley

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

Too right Coley if an aspiring woodworker, should make your own wooden jigs up rather than buying ready up plastic ones, defeats the object a bit.