how long is my bandsaw blade ?

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big soft moose

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I bought a little two wheel rexon bandsaw (from blister) last year, and until fairly recently it has had only light use ( cutting turning blanks round) so ive not had to change the blade.

however recently ive started building furniture and have been resawing a load of oak and i think the blade is getting a bit dull so i need to change it.

so questions

a) how long is the blade , and is there an easy way to tell short of physically measuring it - i dont know what model of bandsaw it is as theres not a label on it , it looks like it might be this one - but i wouldnt swear to it http://www.toolsave.co.uk/product.php?p ... cat_id=143

and b) how do i get the blade off to change it - i understand about releasing the tension but i cant see an inteligent way of getting it out of the blade guard (the thing that slides up and down to set blade depth)

and c) is there any milleage in resharping the existing blade or is that not likely to be economic ?
 
BSM
A DVD is on its way to being produced even as we speak :)

OK. Blade length.
There should be plate on the machine indicating blade length. If there is not, simply wrap a tape measure around the wheels and measure it. You'll have a couple of mm play so it's not to a thou.

Removing the blade

Isolate the machine

Release the tension. This is usually a knob on the top of the machine, or, on taller machines, a wheel under the upper bandwheel.
Next, slacken off the upper tracking knob and gently, by hand, rotate the upper wheel. The blade will move forward and come free. You'll have to weave it out of the upper and lower blade guides.

Only you can decide if the blade is worth resharpening. If it's a good blade, then Yes, it should be; if it's a budget blade, spend the re-sharpening money on a good new one.

HTH
Steve
 
BSM.Here are the model numbers with the blade lengths,Just in case you fine the number.
Also be careful when you uncoil a new blade.Where gloves,part unfold it and just throw it on the floor.Stand well back.
 
BSM,

I don't know your machine, but typically to extricate the blade from the guard you lower it to its absolute maximum (ie to the top of the table), and this releases the guard to pivot open.

Mike
 
I have one of those left set up with a narrow blade for rounding blanks. Saves changing blades on the bigger machine which I try to leave set up for deep ripping.

I believe it takes 72.5" blades judging by an old invoice I kept to remind me!

You need to take the blade guard off by lowering to the table and then undoing, from memory, two allen head bolts that hold the guard to the guides post. After that and releasing the tension with the knob on the top, the blade should come easily off of the wheels.

Cheers, Paul :D
 
There is a simple formula for working out the length of blade you need.
The measurements you need are wheel diameter and distance between wheel centres.
Formula: 2 x pi x r + 2 x l

where
pi = 3.14
r = wheel radius
l = distance between centres

My old Welmac band saw has 12" dia wheels and 20" between centres, so my formula is (2 x 3.14 x 6) + ( 2 x 20) = 77.7"

A 78" blade does the job perfectly.
 
paulm":1qtjz4nf said:
I have one of those left set up with a narrow blade for rounding blanks. Saves changing blades on the bigger machine which I try to leave set up for deep ripping.

I believe it takes 72.5" blades judging by an old invoice I kept to remind me!

You need to take the blade guard off by lowering to the table and then undoing, from memory, two allen head bolts that hold the guard to the guides post. After that and releasing the tension with the knob on the top, the blade should come easily off of the wheels.

Cheers, Paul :D

cheers paul - another problem is that the plastic insert in the table (arround the blade) appears to be at right angles to the slot in the table. - does this loosen off and tun somehow ? or does it pop out upwards and detatch from the blade seperately.

I'm seriously considering getting a bigger bandsaw and doing as you do - but space (and money) is a bit of an issue.
 
Pete, I'm not familiar with your model but, with most 'cheap' bandsaws, the inserts around the blade can rotate and, yes, should quite simply pop out.

Is there a tensioning guide on your machine? If so and you're looking to cut anything thicker than 3", it usually pays to set it to the next blade width up - these scales are rarely accurate. For example, set it to 5/8" if you've fitted a 1/2" blade.

Maximum blade width can be determined by the width of your tyres - 3/4" wide tyres could suggest up to 5/8" blade width but, this is also dependant on the strength of the frame on your saw... 1/2" blades are usually fine for ripping anyway.
 
big soft moose":2z1a23ss said:
cheers paul - another problem is that the plastic insert in the table (arround the blade) appears to be at right angles to the slot in the table. - does this loosen off and tun somehow ? or does it pop out upwards and detatch from the blade seperately.

Yes, as Olly says, the plastic insert just pops in and out and should turn also once in position.

Cheers, Paul :D
 
Hello BSM,

Instructions for this are exactly as Paulm states. He is spot on, I also have one which I use for cutting carving blanks, when I'm able.. I however do not have any plastic insert in mine and have never had one.
Good luck.
Trev
 
cheers guys - 'nother question i notice axminster dont sell 72.5 ins blades - can i fit a 73 ins blade and just compensate with the tensioner ? if not where would people suggest i get blades , now that dragon are out of buisness
 
I've used Trucut Moose and the chap on the phone will make what ever you want and even advise on suitable TPI and form etc.

Roy.
 
thanks fellas thats great i'll give them a bell tommorow - however i might need a blade urgently - mine was making some funny noises earlier , so is there any milleage in putting a 73 ins blade on in the meantime ( I'm going to axminster at wycombe tommorow anyway) - it would only be 1/4 inch or less differece on either side and the blade tensioner has more travel than that so it looks like it ought to work - or am i missing something ?
 
The tensioner only has to cope with half the length difference so should be fine, that is with the caveat that your machine does indeed require a 72.5" blade.

I personally would check before purchase.
 
CHJ":3n7le4mb said:
The tensioner only has to cope with half the length difference so should be fine, that is with the caveat that your machine does indeed require a 72.5" blade.

I personally would check before purchase.

i'm increasinly sure that it does chas , but good point none the less - however we have a bandsaw at work that definitely takes 73" so if it doesnt fit mine i can just claim it on exes
 
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