How I made my wooden peg's

[Anonymous]

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[Paul Chapman]

Great series of pictures, Mr G =D> I particularly like the ones about holding the wood with another piece as a safety measure and to aid the accuracy of the cut - all very helpful.

Thanks :wink:

Paul

 

[Anonymous]

Oh sorry jacob calling your bench a chopping block [-o< a thousand pardons :lol: :lol: Whatever was I thinking

If you use your metal peg to draw up the joint as you say, how does that work where you just have 1 peg hole in the joint (which most frameing joints do have)? they cant both goe in the same hole at the same time-can they?

Mind that stick guage idea is good, you could even have a steel point or 2 to spike into the wood. I like these simple low tech/low cock up methods
Cheers Jonathan

 

[Anonymous]

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[Alf]

Tsk. You use everyone else's slack terminology and get not one, but two fellas telling you what you already know. :roll: I call them pegs for pegging and dowels when I'm dowelling. I don't use dowels or dowelling for pegging purposes but I might use pegs for dowelling purposes... I don't think you can make lengths of dowelling with a dowel plate but about 90% of people who bought a LN one seem to have thought so and been disappointed. Unfortunately other people aren't as jolly well educated at wot I am. :wink:

Readers of the excellent "Woodworking Magazine" will no doubt be thumbing back to find the stuff Chris Schwarz wrote on the subject of drawboring. His DVD is pretty good too, and includes a PDF of the article iirc. (Bits of it get shown on the Woodworking Channel I believe - Google for the url, I can't be bothered ) Stick "drawbore" in the blog search to get yourself a flavour. Although I confidently expect Jacob to disagree with at least something and point out it's American and thus not relevant... :wink:

Cheers, Alf

 

[Anonymous]

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[Lord Nibbo]

90% of people who bought a LN one seem to have thought so and been disappointed.
Cheers, Alf

Dunno where I bought mine but it was a lot cheaper than the LN one.

Umm... As to the correct terminology quoted in other posts i.e. Pegs, dowels, bits of scrap..... if it's called a dowel plate does it not make dowels?

Mines not screwed down, I don't use it often enough to warrant that, but surely the length and quality of finnish is down to type of wood used not whether it's bolted down or not. I just bang the hell out of mine with it on the table of my drill press. :lol:

 

[Alf]

No couldn't find anything wrong but I'll have a much closer look!

:lol:

 

[Jake]

I just bang the hell out of mine with it on the table of my drill press. :lol:

Cast iron, presumably? Take care if so - it is reasonably easy to shatter cast iron, as it is quite brittle stuff.

 

[Anonymous]

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[Colin C]

I have found if you are making smaller dowelling, it is much better to have smaller spacing between your sizes.

My plate has holes from 1/2" - 1/8" in 1/6 steps, I dont always need to use all the steps but if I need a better finish then I do.

I will post a pic if any one want me to

 

[Anonymous]

I'd like to see that Colin

I would just re-itterate I use pegs to assembl LARGE framed structues, I have no use (at present at least) for fine precision "dowels". My pics were to show how I made taper'd pegs for framing. It wasnt my intention to start arguments or bickering :roll: :lol: There are undoubtedly plenty of ways to make decent dowels for cabinets. Colins sudgestion of taking smaller shaves makes sense.

Another thought, I've seen older pics of a length of steel pipe sharpened like a wad punch on the upper end and welded to a square plate with a hole through the same diam as the pipe and bolted to a special heavuy bench. The peg blanks are tapped down one after another. This makes sense as the wood is kept vertical being suported inside the pipe. I think they used this for doing rake tines??

 

[Lord Nibbo]

I just bang the hell out of mine with it on the table of my drill press. :lol:

Cast iron, presumably? Take care if so - it is reasonably easy to shatter cast iron, as it is quite brittle stuff.

I'm pretty sure it can take up to lump hammer size, I would even take bets you couldn't do much to it with a sledge, well perhaps I shouldn't try it though :lol:

 

[Colin C]

Hi Mr S,

Here are the pic's of my dowel plate and as you can see I have missed the dowel a few times :roll: :wink:

 

[Anonymous]

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[Colin C]

Hi Jacob,

The sizes like 27/64's are more for getting to the size that I need and you right about not hitting it with a hammer but I can get a better finish on them if I turn the plate a round ( no hammer marks on that side )