Zeddedhed
Established Member
I've got a Bosch glide arm chop sliding mitre saw (GCM 12 GDL) which is about 1 year old, maybe a bit more.
It's bolted down to a stand and never leaves the workshop. It makes the vast majority (99.9%) of it's cuts at 90 degrees with the odd mitre here and there.
It's well looked after, hoovered out every night and has a dedicated extractor. It's never been dropped.
Now that I've set the scene, here's the thing....
When crosscutting a lump of Oak 80 x 50 that's been trued up I'm getting a non-square cut. The lack of squareness is top to bottom of the cut (the Bevel). The cut starts off on the line or mark (obviously) but then undercuts by a shad.
I know the photo shows the cut hollow rather than undercut but thats just the 'photo.
Is this me being ultra fussy or is this the best I can expect from what is essentially a builders tool?
EDIT: By the way, I've adjusted the tilt/bevel to spot on 90 degrees using a digital angle finder, so I guess I reckon the blade is deviating mid cut.
It's bolted down to a stand and never leaves the workshop. It makes the vast majority (99.9%) of it's cuts at 90 degrees with the odd mitre here and there.
It's well looked after, hoovered out every night and has a dedicated extractor. It's never been dropped.
Now that I've set the scene, here's the thing....
When crosscutting a lump of Oak 80 x 50 that's been trued up I'm getting a non-square cut. The lack of squareness is top to bottom of the cut (the Bevel). The cut starts off on the line or mark (obviously) but then undercuts by a shad.
I know the photo shows the cut hollow rather than undercut but thats just the 'photo.
Is this me being ultra fussy or is this the best I can expect from what is essentially a builders tool?
EDIT: By the way, I've adjusted the tilt/bevel to spot on 90 degrees using a digital angle finder, so I guess I reckon the blade is deviating mid cut.