How do I?

[SteveF]

I am making a cutlery box (not tray)
this requires me to cut slots in variable widths & spacings in 50mm x 10mm stock to sit the eating weapons in
I will need to adjust this after 12 cuts to a different width \ spacing \ weapon
some of these cuts also need to be at an angle, but I can change plan if not possible
I tried on my test piece of mdf with careful marking and trench cuts on mitre saw
i just ended up with a visual mess I would not be happy with
I wish I had stuck to a cutlery tray design, but too late once SWMBO gets involved
I can see the router table being easier to get clean cuts but does not solve the issue
I would rather spend the time making something to do this than have the frustration of imperfect cuts

Steve

 

[profchris]

Probably no help to you, but I'd cut them with a good backsaw (I have a Pax from last year's birthday). But I make ukuleles, so am used to cutting to within around 0.1 mm accuracy by hand (OK, maybe 0.2 mm). But with a good saw it doesn't take many practice cuts. It would take longer to mark out the cuts than to cut them I reckon. Knife them and cut exactly on the knife score.

 

[LancsRick]

I assume from the way you're phrasing the first post that you're after making this from a single piece rather than assembling it from components. If so I'd use a freehand router against a straight edge clamped as a reference. For a nice finish I'd probably use a bowl cutter or similar.

 

[ED65]

No reason you couldn't do this with your router, just not in a table. So router on top with suitable straightedges or other guides clamped in place to help achieve your perfectly straight grooves.

A fair amount of tedious setup required, but afterwards the cutting of the grooves will go smoothly and by the numbers.

 

[custard]

I assume from the way you're phrasing the first post that you're after making this from a single piece rather than assembling it from components.

I'm confused about this too, especially as Steve says,

"this requires me to cut slots in variable widths & spacings in 50mm x 10mm stock"

The solution will be different for single cuts in 50x10mm components versus multiple cuts across the entire base, or for that matter for through cuts versus stopped cuts.

 

[SteveF]

I have changed the plan now for this
but the original idea was to cut dental mouldings through the 10mm thick x 50mm tall x 350 length stock, but with varying size slots and spacing
interesting to hear ideas, it may help someone else out
I have to say a handsaw \ bandsaw and chisel may have been the best approach
I also thought about using a stop block on my mitre station fence and suitable amounts of spacers
Steve

 

[custard]

I think I get it now, and you're wise to have ditched that plan. The short grain on the dividers would have meant they would have inevitably snapped off before long. The traditional compartments (with lateral dividers jointed into the sides) is a tried and tested solution, or for something more contemporary you could have vertical dowels to separate different cutlery items, although to do that you'd probably need a slightly thicker base.

Incidentally, to cut the slots for the "dentil" idea, a mitre saw with fence stops would do the job. I use something similar to cut the angled halving joints for the curved stretchers on these side tables,

You need zero clearance sub fences, accurate fence stops, and a lot of patience; but that set up can do a very clean and precise job.

 

[SteveF]

Stunning Table
so much to think about for such a small item that will get shoved in a corner :-(
and if it is not approved at least I can go back to pen turning and make use as a storage box
its a big learning curve from my usual throw it together projects
making test pieces from mdf has helped a lot
I may even make a drawing next time rather than visualise the item in my head only to find it won't work

Steve