How do I set my Circular Saw square?

[kevinr]

I have real problems getting my saw to make a 0% bevel cut. I always end up with a leaning cut. Its only an old B&D Proline which has had light use over about 15 years.

Basically the 0% setting is a lie, and my attempts to set the blade by eye or with a square do not seem to improve things. The body of the saw can be locked and adjusted at both ends.

Other than lots of trial an error is there a good method to set it up.
Thanks

 

[OLD]

I would check the table is straight and flat then check for end float on the saw and make sure blade is flat and clean and distortion free when fitted so the only thing left is the tilt mech. check for slackness in pivots and fixings .
Use engineers square between flat part of blade and table adjust and mark.

 

[engineer one]

as old says use an engineers square, but.

lift the base up to its maximum height, so that you have as much blade below the base as possible.

loosen mitre gauge. get the base and blade square, front and rear,
tighten gauge, and then see if it has distorted at all. if it is still square,
then you can mark the gauge with a permanent marker type pen.

check that the baseplate is flat front to rear as well as side to side.

then move the blade by hand through at least one complete revolution,
keep checking with the square to ensure the blade is running
square. hopefully then, it will stay cutting square.

if you do not have an engineers square, you could use a level if you set the base over the edge of your bench, and know the bench is flat and level,
then set the level upside the blade, and move the mitre gauge to get it
square.
hope that makes it clearer and helps

paul :wink:

 

[Niki]

I think that this problem exists on most of the cheap (and also some expensive) CS's.

I have 3 CS's including Makita and all of them had the same problem.

The problems are;
1. The iron floppy base, and
2. The floppy height (or depth) adjustment slotted rail.

Just put the CS on a flat area (or on two wooden blocks), press on the handle and you will see how the saw angle is changing in reference to the base.

You can adjust your blade to super 90* to the base but once you press on the handle to make the cut, the angle changes.

I solved the problem by adding longer auxiliary base, adding a spacer under the motor body, so the motor is pressed against the base (and even if I press on it, it will not move in reference to the base), adjust it to 90*, lock is at that position and use it only for 90* cuts with "full blade" and without any guard (my CS has a brake and stops in a second).

With all due respect to the EU safety laws, maybe the lawmakers have to push on the companies to make rigid base and height adjustment rail.

niki