Horizontal Router

[asealion]

All,
Finally getting round to start making this style of fence. http://www.adiamondandson.co.uk/pics/big_1140116793.jpg
The laminations for the top are no problem as I have laminated before in building boats, and I have built loads of fences. The curved tops(after laminating) are going to be done using a horizontal router(I think).Does anyone have any thoughts on the matter.
George

 

[J D Architectural Joinery]

horizontal routering :? :?

what do you class as horizontal routering

 

[asealion]

Where the router is at 90 deg to the work.Couple of links below.
The idea is that I will be able to get the laminated curves close to the bit at all times.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ww7SnmoIONM

http://www.mclswoodworking.com/shopsite ... bl1_04.jpg

 

[Slim]

I may be missing something, but I can't see how you can do curves with a horizontal router table. :?:

 

[Smudger]

You mean 180 degrees? The normal arrangement is 90.

 

[Smudger]

I may be missing something, but I can't see how you can do curves with a horizontal router table. :?:

I would have thought that using the router in the normal manner and following a template would work - but would be very wasteful of material. How does the manufacturer do it? Is the timber steamed and bent?

 

[asealion]

Ok,
90 deg from the natural position. Or as you said 180 to the work.

 

[asealion]

Dick,
All the tops are laminated.And I assumed that the "U" section top would have been laminated full and then machined out.The thin sides of the "U" would be difficult to hold whilst laminating and possibly split.

 

[Smudger]

I still don't see how that would help you machine the curved sections, as you would have to be moving the bit up and down relative to the bed. Using the router normally would work, though.

Another method would be to use a jigsaw and sand back to the line, but a lot more effort.

 

[wizer]

I've always fancied a H-Router... seems like a good way to do M&T's

 

[asealion]

Dick,
The idea is to use it similar to morticing as in the tube video. The narrow back would allow the work to pass by the bit.

 

[J D Architectural Joinery]

I think its bad enough a router bit snapping in a vertical position far less a horizontal position
I wouldn't do it.

 

[asealion]

David,
Agreed on the bit breaking, but what's the difference between that and a tip coming off a saw blade, or a planer blade letting go.

 

[J D Architectural Joinery]

David,
Agreed on the bit breaking, but what's the difference between that and a tip coming off a saw blade, or a planer blade letting go.

Only because I have never seen a saw tip or planer blade letting go, but I have seen a cutter snap on an overhead router.

 

[Slim]

I still don't understand what it is you want to do. You are going to laminate the curves, what do you want to use the horiz. router table for?

 

[Smudger]

Ah! The scales fall from my eyes!
You don't mean shaping the curved sections, you mean routing a trench for the trellis to be mounted in?

I see!

Then yes, that would work OK, but so would a standard table with a guided slotting bit and a pin to work against.

 

[Mr T]

If you are not laminating the curve I would suggest shaping it using a template and bearing guided cutter on a conventional router table. Then, whether you have laminated or shaped the curve, create the groove using a grooving cutter and an improvised ring fence arrangement, again on the usual router table.

 

[J D Architectural Joinery]

If you are not laminating the curve I would suggest shaping it using a template and bearing guided cutter on a conventional router table. Then, whether you have laminated or shaped the curve, create the groove using a grooving cutter and an improvised ring fence arrangement, again on the usual router table.

I would totally agree with that one, if you go horizontally you will be using striaght cutter, and probably putting more pressure on the cutter doing it that way than using say a rebate or grooving cutter the convensional way

 

[Slim]

Ah! The scales fall from my eyes!
You don't mean shaping the curved sections, you mean routing a trench for the trellis to be mounted in?

I see!

Then yes, that would work OK, but so would a standard table with a guided slotting bit and a pin to work against.

Ah! I see!

In that case... IMO this would be better acomlished on a normal router table with a bearing guided slot/groove cutter and a lead pin (as Dick says). I cannot see how you would control the depth of cut using a horizontal router.

 

[mailee]

Yes I too would agree with the router table and the lead on pin. Using a rebate cutter would be the perfect way to do it. :wink: