Home made router table questions.

[JJ1]

I've just got a Triton TRA001 router and would like to build my first router table. I have a couple of questions that I'm hoping someone could help me with please.

1) Is 12mm thick MDF likely to be strong enough as the table insert? Unfortunately 18mm looks like it would be a little too thick and would prevent me changing bits above the table.

2) I'm planning on making the router table top out of two sheets of 18mm MDF glued together. Is it crucial/important that the top be laminated? I have a couple of old off-cuts of white formica knocking around that I could use if I had too, but I'd obviously prefer to skip that step if it isn't essential. I would be happy to oil/wax/varnish,etc the top instead if that's a good option.

Any advice would be appreciated, thanks.

 

[Reggie]

No idea on the lamination but whatever you use for the table insert should be strong enough that it won't sag on you. You can always brace it with something.

 

[Bale]

Two thicknesses of 18mm mdf will be fine. Mine is made like this and finished with Liberon finishing oil. It has lasted for years, as have several benchtops which I finished the same way, although I'm not a commercial workshop. It may not be suitable if you are giving it very heavy use. I've put a hardwood lipping around the edges to reduce any possible damage.

1/2" mdf would probably do for an insert - just don't make it too big. I have a polycarbonate (I think) insert which I got from Axminster years ago. It is only 6 or 8mm thick, but even that has been a pain as some cutters with bearing guides will not extend far enough out of the table. I have just bitten the bullet and ordered a collet extension. Not cheap at £56, but it's worth it for me.

Pete

 

[barkwindjammer]

This is a steal (IMHO)
http://www.rutlands.co.uk/sp+deluxe-ful ... ble+DK2009

 

[Steve Maskery]

If you are going to the trouble of making your own router table, don't stint - you'll only end up doing it all over again.
I have had a plain aluminium insert, a phenolic insert, and now an anodised aluminium one from Tilgear. It's very good. My RT is in store and I'm not sure what state it will be in when it comes out, but if I need to remake the top, as I suspect I will, I will splash out and get the Woodpecker insert from Woodworkers Workshop. Yes, it's expensive, but it is excellent. The inserts are easier to change than the Tilgear one.

The phenolic ones (with the red and grey inserts) are not flat. The manufacturers claim it is to increase the accuracy, but I'm sure that that is bovine colonic waste. It's because it is too difficult to make a flat one from that material.

I volunteer at a community workshop and we have a Routerlift. I would not swap my Tilgear one for that, although I might consider it if I did not have a RouterRaiser and Xtreme Xtension fitted to my router.

The definitive design for the RT itself is Norm's. It is very good and you can buy the plans (in inches only, unfortunately) from Brimarc or one of its distributors. Worth every penny.

S

 

[JJ1]

Thanks for the advice. Food for thought over the next couple of days.