Help with my Kity 636 p/t

[Matt_S]

I posted a wanted for a benchtop planer/thicknesser... but ended up getting something a little larger!

This was taken when I first got it... hence no outfeed table. I've spent a day setting up and adjusting and having a go with it but do have a couple of questions/problems. Both tables need some adjustment as they both dip towards the cutting block. The infeed tables move up and down on these bars;

So the only way I can see to adjust is to shim. I seem to remember someone used coke can as a shim as it's thin, seems a good idea unless anyone has a better idea?

I've also not been able to get the hood on I know it's going to be simple! I presume that on this model I should be able to seeing it round from planer to thicknessing mode? Can someone confirm?

Finally, the worst thing I've found. It seems to have had something dropped on the infeed table and so one corner is WELL off the other three. Short of a new table I thought it could be built up with epoxy resin? With a straight edge and feelers is it ambitious to think I can get it flat enough for hobby use myself rather than having it milled?

 

[Steve Maskery]

A nice little project for you there, Matt.
I had 636 before my 637. Not bad machines, once you have them set up.
You can shim, as you suggest, or you can take a file to those round bars, or the V-ways that run on them. It's a painstaking job, but you only have to do it once.
The table that has been dropped on - how bad is it? Is it simply mounted out of true or is it out of flat itself? If the latter I think you are screwed. I can't see how epoxy is going to solve anything. How far out is WELL out?

The hood should have a wire cradle on which it swings. There are two holes on the inside of the machine into which the ends clip. You will only be able to operate the hood when the thicknessing table is right at its lowest position.

HTH
Steve

 

[Matt_S]

Brilliant Steve thanks for the help.

The hood should have a wire cradle on which it swings. There are two holes on the inside of the machine into which the ends clip. You will only be able to operate the hood when the thicknessing table is right at its lowest position.

It has the wire cradle I wasn't sure what to do with this will have to have another look now.

how bad is it? Is it simply mounted out of true or is it out of flat itself?

It's really bad! I borrowed a straight edge from Oryxdesign, and used it will feeler guages. But you didn't need feeler guages to see the approx 1mm gap on one corner of the table! Using the straight edge parallel to the table length one front corner is low and then it gets better as you go across the table width. Currenlty using it with the fence as far forward as the piece of wood will allow to avoid this corner.

 

[Steve Maskery]

OK, well if it is reasonably flat and planar in the vicinity of the cutter you may be able to use it OK. Remember the only really reliable surface is the outfeed table. So once you are onto that, that should be what you are referencing to. At least your infeed table doesn't kick the workpiece up in the air. That would have a greater effect, I think (although potentially more fixable).

If you want to chat, give me a call. I'll not post my number here, but it is on the Contact page of my website.

Cheers
Steve
(Edited for several appalling and embarrassing lapses in English - humble apologies for letting the side down. There is still a sentence ending in a preposition.)

 

[Rob Platt]

I went out and checked mine trying to spot if there was any way I could see to adjust it. figure Steve`s given you all the advice. would be interested to know how its happened. Mines had some rough use and some traumatic moves over the last couple of years and is still solid and true. Maybe I`ve been lucky. Hope you are too.
All the best
Rob