Help with hollowing out

[Phill joiner]

I had a log off cut given to me about two years ago which has sat in my extractor shed gathering dust. I decided to turn it today and I'm having problems hollowing out the centre. Is there any short cuts to make life easier? What's the best chisel to use?
What ever tool I throw at it, it just snatches or burns :evil: . I've been using my parting tool to run three grooves down about 10mm and then scraping it out. Very slow going tbh :roll: . I was thinking of drilling a load of holes around it and then cleaning it out with a chisel.
This is my first solid bowl. I tend to do segmented which don't need to be hollowed out as such. Please help......

 

[Spindle]

Hi

At the risk of sounding flippant, a bowl gouge. If you're experiencing catches the gouge is either blunt or you technique is flawed.

Do you have a round nose scraper or carbide scraper? - if so you will probably find these easier to master in the beginning.

What degree of research / reading have you done?

Regards Mick

 

[Paul Hannaby]

It looks like your bowl is mounted end grain so you should be cutting from centre to edge to get the best cut.

If your tools are burning then I would look again at sharpening. The burning is a symptom of too much pressure being applied to the tool against the wood to make it cut when it's blunt. So make sure which ever tool you use is razor sharp and check it every few minutes, resharpening as necessary. If you are having to push harder, the tool is becoming blunt.
Also, with a sharp tool, you will find that progress is somewhat faster!

The usual method of mounting is to use a chuck or faceplate but if you are turning this between centres, it can be done but it does make access more difficult. If you are just using the tailstock for additional support, you need to weigh up the benefits of that against the problems with reduced access.

The best tool for this would be one of the many hollowing tools (scraper type, ring tool type or guarded cutter type - all will work) because the presence of the tailstock will make it virtually impossible to present a bowl gouge at the correct angle and the use of a bowl gouge would result in cutting the wrong way against the grain.

 

[Phill joiner]

Thanks for the replies both. I must admit I am very new to this and I am very gun Ho. I like to learn on the job or hands on as to speak. Or learn by my mistakes. Lol.
I did screw a face plate on and turned the base for a chuck which its mounted in...sorry for the rubbish picture. I see what you mean about poor access for my bowl gauge as I think this is the issue I was having. Cannot get the correct angle with the tail stock there. What I didn't mention is that it's ash. I was worried that without the tail stock in place it would fly out but I suppose this will come with more practice.
I found working from the centre out worked well but access is a nightmare. I've got about another 25mm to go so I think I'll remove the tail stock tomorrow and see how that goes.
The only scrapers I have are a round nose and an angled pointed tool....sorry for the new bee explanation.
Thanks again for the help I really appreciate it.

 

[Phill joiner]

Well after going blind over the holidays watching videos. I have invested in a Jet wet stone grinder and gouge jig. What a difference that has made. Wish I'd invested in one ages ago. Also bought a round nose scraper. The ash bowl above is something I'm going to leave and go back to when I'm more confident as it's a lot deeper than anything I've worked before.

 

[Spindle]

Hi

Glad to hear things are coming together - when you go back to the ash bowl try to minimise the overhang of your tools by angling the tool rest into the cavity of the bowl - you'll get less issues with chatter etc. that way.

Regards Mick

 

[Phill joiner]

Thanks for the tip Mick. I had a close call today with the tool rest. The top section is screwed to the downward shaft. As I got to the end it swung into the bottom of the bowl. Luckely I had taken the sharp edges off the bowl rim. I thought the top of the tool rest would have a pin or screw in it so this couldn't happen. I'm now wondering if this has been happening in small increments without me knowing and causing the catches. After emptying my pants I took the rest next door to a welding fabricators to get it sorted once and for all.

 

[Phill joiner]

I'm back trying to fight this bowl again and need some help please. I have had to lengthen my rest so I can get into this one. What ever I try and do with the bowl gouge it just wants to do its own thing tbh. Can you guide me into how you would present the gouge to this please.
Another question is when you get to the bottom of the bowl and start to move into the centre would a shallower angle on the bowl gouge be better? as the opening in the bowl wont let you swing the handle enough to keep the bevel rubbing.
Also if I was to use a round nosed scraper in there would the grind angle need to be shallow?

I am going to join a club but I'm moving house soon and wanted to join a local club.

Thanks
Phill

 

[Stiggy]

I found this video helpful by Mike Waldt...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nlSd7ZXAVoM

 

[Phill joiner]

Thanks stiggy yes I have seen that about six times. Lol. It did answer the question about the grind angle 60 degrees for getting to the bottom angle. But this bowl is end grain and like concrete at the bottom.

 

[Stiggy]

You can get a kango for about £140 off screwfix.

 

[KimG]

Once I get to that sort of stage I find a negative rake scraper ground to a rounded pattern is the best tool for tidying up a bowl interior. I made mine from a secondhand 40mm wide skew, I ground a bullnose on it and then sharpened it as you would a skew. You can use it to take very fine cuts and it is very good for smoothing out small ripples etc.

Recently though I bought a heavier proper scraper and I will be grinding that to a negative rake soon.

Google the scraper type, I am sure there must be some videos out there that will give you some idea of how it works.

 

[Spindle]

Hi

I would agree with Kim

As a relatively new turner on a fairly deep narrow cavity, a round nose scraper will be much easier to handle.

When presenting the bowl gouge you need to maintain the bevel 'rubbing' - with the lathe switched off try to present the bevel so as it rubs as you traverse the bowl - if you can't do this because of interference, this is your problem. Fixes are different grind angles or shorter handles, (or a scraper :wink: )

If your lathe has a swivelling headstock this can also be used to eliminate interference.

Regards Mick

 

[NickWelford]

I would be concerned that your rest extension doesn't appear to be very substantial. It's important that there is no flexing or movement in it.

 

[Phill joiner]

Once I get to that sort of stage I find a negative rake scraper ground to a rounded pattern is the best tool for tidying up a bowl interior. I made mine from a secondhand 40mm wide skew, I ground a bullnose on it and then sharpened it as you would a skew. You can use it to take very fine cuts and it is very good for smoothing out small ripples etc.

Recently though I bought a heavier proper scraper and I will be grinding that to a negative rake soon.

Google the scraper type, I am sure there must be some videos out there that will give you some idea of how it works.

Very interesting.... I'll try grinding my scraper tomorrow and give it a go. I think my scrapper angle is to sharp an angle and snatches badly so I'm hoping the negative grind should sort it.

The rest isn't ideal but it is very strong. It's U shaped aluminium which fits perfectly over the rest.

Thanks again for the help. I'm getting there slowly and loving the challenge woodturning brings.

 

[Paul Hannaby]

You would be better off ignoring the bowl turning video Stiggy posted a link to. There are so many things in it that are misguided, misleading or just wrong it isn't something I would suggest as a learning aid. I appreciate people have different ways of working but that couldn't justify the errors in that one.

The scraper bevel angle isn't causing the catches, it's the angle you are presenting the tool to the wood. If it catches, raise the rest slightly (but still cut at centre height or just above) so the tool is trailing against the wood more.

 

[Mark Hancock]

I'd have to agree with Paul regarding that video link. It is not a good example of how to turn a bowl. In fact it was painful to watch

 

[chipmunk]

+1
I only got as far as the pull-cut, or should I say pull-scrape, and gave up!

Jon

 

[Phill joiner]

Can you suggest a video or someone who is worth watching please.

Thanks

Phill

 

[chipmunk]

Richard Raffan is worth watching here...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TIvROyV2n6w

...and Glenn Lucas here...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lIxpzuv1Cxw

The best videos from the best turners will cost money though.

The key is to have sharp tools so that shavings are produced.

Are you a member of a club? Seeing turners up close and personal is the best way to learn IMHO.

HTH
Jon