Help! Untreated Exterior Oak door suggested treatment?

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Thanks and I have nothing against yacht varnish on yachts (yes I do own a sable brush or three) but am hoping for this job to achieve a more natural finish.
 
Danish oil is not very durable on exterior oak in my experience - I made a garden chair a few years ago and put Danish oil on it. It's ok-ish on the vertical surfaces but on anywhere that stays at all wet the finish has all disappeared.

There's a much more expensive anti-UV exterior oil in the Osmo range that has been recommended on here since; that could be worth a search for.
 
I was going to (and still am) going to suggest Protim preservative followed a 48 hour drying cycle and the finish of your choice, it's intended for exterior joinery up to exposure class 3b (exposed, no surface coating), so I imagine it would do the trick here... However you'd actually have to take it to someone who's operating a protimisation tank to get it done.

I've been trying to find who your nearest operator would be, but it's not something that's widely advertised; if you wanted to pursue it as an option, I think you'd need to ask Osmose UK (the treatment manufacturer) to put you on to one of their customers.
 
For an oiled finish I've either used Varnol made by Gjoco or Deks Olje D1.

My philosophy has always been if it lasts for a year or 2 on a boat then it'll last for 5- 10 years on a house......... so far I've not been wrong
 
I think this depends on the degree of exposure - aspect (north, south) weather protection from direct water etc.
It also depends a bit what you started with - kiln dried will certainly expand no matter what.
I agree generally, Danish oil has failed me in these applications, but I have been pleasantly surprised by Tung Oil - hardens off quite quickly and enough goes in to promote stability of the woods.
I have felt that coating will be wrong - I mean varnishes (no matter how good) because you have a moving wood, and an immovable coat. My approach has been to use penetrative oil-based finishes, so the 2 can move as one. I don't have an external door in need just now, but consider Tru-Oil - a polymerised blend of oils used for many years on gunstocks (think rain, etc).
If I was about to do a hardwood external door just now, I would go for that I think... nice natural finish too [but can build to a shine with more coats].

Actually, another proven favourite is Sadolins Classic (green tin, stay away from Extra, nasty high-build clag) - if oak go for 'natural' colour - I have it on workshop doors and windows... really very good indeed, a quick wipe once every 2 years, job done.
I have used Deck Olje before too but not outside... the name implies it might be fine though :lol:
 
condeesteso":3pnw455g said:
I have felt that coating will be wrong - I mean varnishes (no matter how good) because you have a moving wood, and an immovable coat.

A good quality varnish (even a high gloss one) isn't an immovable coat, I've varnished many boats new and old built with kiln dried and air dried timber without any issue.
 
Thanks guys, as ever very useful.

I'm with Douglas as I've always preferred oil finishes but the posts so far have certainly introduced a few products new to me. I especially like the look of the Deks Olje and for simplicity of application from a trusted source a couple of coats of the Osmo Exterior Oil looks good too.

Thanks again and if there is any more please keep them coming.
 
condeesteso":21yn5y0r said:
Actually, another proven favourite is Sadolins Classic (green tin, stay away from Extra, nasty high-build clag) - if oak go for 'natural' colour - I have it on workshop doors and windows... really very good indeed, a quick wipe once every 2 years, job done.

I also use Sadolin Classic for exterior woodwork. Very easy to apply and maintain.

Cheers :wink:

Paul
 
My doors and windows are about 20 yrs old.
I found that on the south side Sadolin only lasted about 2yrs whereas when I switched to Sikkens it lasts 3 to 4 yrs before retreatment?
They do build up layers though and I think that soon I might have to burn off and start again?
The treatment on the north side seems to last forever - proving that the sun is the killer?

Rod
 
The joiner who made my oak porch used and recommended a mixture of linseed oil thinned with turpentine.

It has provided only poor protection (despite annual renewal) and the golden oak is now silver-gray in many places.

So don't do that, unless you're targetting a "medieval church" look.

It looked like this when new:

porch.JPG


BugBear
 
Harbo":22wt56mx said:
I found that on the south side Sadolin only lasted about 2yrs whereas when I switched to Sikkens it lasts 3 to 4 yrs before retreatment?
They do build up layers though and I think that soon I might have to burn off and start again?
The treatment on the north side seems to last forever - proving that the sun is the killer?

Yes, it's all about the weather. My front door gets little sun or rain and hardly ever need re-treating. My back door gets all the weather but Sadolin Classic is so easy to re-apply I do it every couple of years. Just a very light rub down and a couple of coats. Do all my garden furniture with it as well.

Cheers :wink:

Paul
 
Morrells Omina coatings or the external osmo oil

Are you spraying or applying by hand?
 
bugbear":cz9llbos said:
The joiner who made my oak porch used and recommended a mixture of linseed oil thinned with turpentine.

It has provided only poor protection (despite annual renewal) and the golden oak is now silver-gray in many places.

So don't do that, unless you're targetting a "medieval church" look.

It looked like this when new:

porch.JPG


BugBear

Thats rather nice. How much did it set you back if you don't mind me asking?
 
Come on BB - tell me you made it ??! [edit, sorry, just noticed you refer to the joiner].
I haven't heard of Morrells Omina coatings or the external osmo oil - will research, but I'm with Paul - the Classic Sadolins is mighty fine, very low build and really stable. Agree a quick wipe with wire wool (in my case) once every 2 years, and a very thin (almost scrub it on) coat - very fast to do and really effective.
 
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