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Help !!!!! Unable to get chuck and arbor out of drill press

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kinsella

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I have a Scheppach rab t 13x radial arm drill press for a good few years now, my problem is i cannot for the life of me get the arbor or chuck of our the shaft. Normally on drill presses you get the slot (key hole) for the key to strike out the arbor. This model has no slot. Another way on other models would be to put a long bar down the shaft to strike it out from the top. You guessed it, this model doesnt allow that without total dismantling, or when i done it last the top was solid.

i've used vise grips, i've strapped wood to it. Save me destroying the existing chuck, i'm at a loss of how to get the thing out. Any ideas?? save brute force and ignorance? (which i have in abundance)

Some suggestions put to me so far, use a blow torch to heat up the shank. But i suggest that will be extremely distructive too.


PS. its my own fault, it kept falling out at the wrong time and i gave it a whack with a hammer!!! that was 5 years ago!
 

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9fingers

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Are you sure there is an arbour to remove?????

Many of this type of drill have a short male taper (possibly JT6) on the end of the spindle which fits into the back of the chuck.
A special pair of folding wedges are normally needed to release the chuck (and no brute force or heat!)
I have also seen them with a threaded stub but not usually with a keyless chuck.

HTH

Bob
 

kinsella

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Bob,
Thanks for prompt reply, i'm a newbie to the forum. Yes, it has a tapered arbor with the chuck on the end. Bless them, the manual says place the key in the key hole to get the arbor out, but there were three models, 2 free standing and a bench model. I have the bench model, which in their wisdom doesn't have a key hole. Seems mental now in hindsight.

I used to remove it previously, using a metal wedge between the side of the chuck and the bottom of the shaft. This no longer works as its in good and tight. I used to mount a morticing attachment and then put it back to drill mode. Its currently stuck in the morticing mode. I can't put the drill dept stop gauge back on as a result, which is obviously a handy feature to lose on a drill press.

The manufacture has never returned my queries. Going to try the supplier again to see what they say. I got used to it in this mode for years, but now getting fed up with it and lump hammer mode coming shortly.

i suppose i could try see if the chuck comes off the arbor and then try pull the arber out on its own.
 

9fingers

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Never heard of a taper arbour drill that does not either have an ejector slot or a hole down the middle of the quill to eject the taper,

NMA are the scheppach experts and there is a member here menatnma who works there

member233.html

He is very helpful. You might not be able to send PMs yet but after 4 posts, you should be able to (2 more to go) just do a couple of replies to this and you should be sorted.

hth

Bob
 

kinsella

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Thats exactly where i got it from. Caught them at a show once and mentioned it, they didnt have any suggestions, but i'll try your advice. i must admit i just assumed it would have one. I recall standing their one day going, "wheres the key slot" scratching my head, ok, it must be from the top down, scratching my head again. I'm still scratching!!!!

I would only love them to give me the typical computing answer like "have you tried turning it on mate?????". But i regret, i havent lost all my brain cells yet and it doesnt have one.

Thank you very much Bob.
 

hamburglar

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Spray the shaft with some penetrating oil and allow it to soak into the taper overnight. Get a piece of steel which will sit just above the chuck when it is drawn down - say 25mm by 4mm and foot long. Draw the chuck down a couple of inches and fix the shaft. Then a series of gentle sustained taps on the steel with a lump hammer. It eventually drops off. Had the same problem with the same drill and this was how I managed!
 

kinsella

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Ok, will give that a try. i assume you mean something like WD40?

Make you wonder why they didnt put a key slot in it.
 

9fingers

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WD40 is not a penetrating oil.
WD stands for water displacement and wd40 is for removing the dampness from car ignition systems.
It does make a tolerable cutting lubricant for aluminium and its alloys
Plus Gas and other graphite based fluids are penetrating oils. if you don't have any of them to hand then paraffin or diesel fuel is good.

Bob
 

kinsella

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that explains why the WD40 was no use before. Thats my new fact for the day sorted.

PS. is it good practice to post the solutions when and if i get it sorted next week?
 

CHJ

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kinsella":215qjq99 said:
...PS. is it good practice to post the solutions when and if i get it sorted next week?
Most certainly it is, most would say it is invaluable use to others who may have similar problems, others might just admit to being nosey.
 

9fingers

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Definately! Thats how we all learn. There is a huge searchable archive here and looking at the header of this page - approaching 650 thousand posts.

Bob

OK Chas can type faster than I do! :lol:
 

kinsella

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Chaps
I have to say a very big thank you to you all. I think i might become addicted to this forum. i take it the informal house rules are "no such thing as a stupid question, if you don't know, just ask".

PS i love asking highly paid professionals stupid questions, i'm amazed at the amount of times they don't know!!!!!
 

9fingers

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I think the only thing I would add is that if you think a future question might well have been answered before, then have a look in the archive first.
The worst class of question in my book are the ones that we can't possibly know the answer to such as " I'm just starting out in woodworking. What tools do I need?" without telling us what they are trying to make etc.

I tend to get lots of questions about motors which is absolutely fine but I do get a bit hacked off when the questioner has not read my paper on the subject first. It is a sticky at the head of this forum and written based on all the questions I've had over the years.

Bob
 

kinsella

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Bob
I should have clarified I trawl the net first before I ask, your right though, there is a lot of info in the archive. Nearly replied to an old post earlier. So a look through the archive is a must and actually a dam good read as it goes.
 

chipmunk

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Hi,
I had the same problem but finally managed when I got the right tool...

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Chucks/Wedges-Drifts

A set of wedges aren't expensive and you may need to make a sacrificial wooden collar to provide a surface for one side to bear on but they do work. The problem with other methods is that the force isn't directly in-line with the shaft unless you're lucky enough to have a knock-out hole all of the way through or a keyhole in the shaft.

Good luck
HTH
Jon
 

9fingers

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kinsella":3c90ww17 said:
Jon
They look perfect, necessity the mother of invention in action. Will buy and give them a try.
Yes they are the folding wedges I referred to in my first post. Arc Euro are very good normally get stuff in 1 to 2 days.

Bob
 

kinsella

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Mixed results. Bought the wedges etc suggested by Jon, and the drift was sucessful in part. As you can see from the photos, i got the chuck off. But the arbor is still in place and i think i will be in the grave before that ever comes out!!! Why the hell they decided not to include a key slot is beyond me. I damaged the chuck trying to get it off, it still works, but its not a very healthy way to do it, but its the only way left from the design of the drill press!. Shame on you Scheppach!!!!!!!
 

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doorframe

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kinsella":3vw04636 said:
Shame on you Scheppach!!!!!!!
I'm no fan of Scheppach, but I wouldn't necessarily blame them. I've got the same machine badged as Ferm, and I've seen it under many other names.

My Scheppach Capas 3 mitre saw (sounds impressive, doesn't it... Capas 3) is a Rexon, and an Einhell, and a Ryobi, and a Profiline. And probably others.

The name on the front rarely means much.

Roy
 
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