Help sourcing T mitre/cross cut bar

[JonnyW]

Sorry moderators if this is the wrong place for this thread.

I seek help. I recently bought a Scheppach Precisa 4 table saw. I've been saving my pennies for a proper table saw for a long time now, and with the optional expandable groove cutter, it ticked all the boxes. It's a fantastic machine and very well built. A good solid machine with an accurate micro adjustable fence.

However, I bought a tenon jig from Rutlands (sorry Steve, couldn't be bothered to make my own!) and realised that the saw doesn't have the standard 3/4 x 3/8 track for taking the mitre/cross cut gauge etc. It has a bizarre T track system (like an upside down T).

I can see the logic as the mitre/cross cut gauge stays put - and can move off the saw if need be without popping out the track. But damn it's annoying, because I'm having no luck finding aftermarket T track that can fit the groove in the saw.

I've emailed Scheppach and an agent to see if they sell lengths of the T bar, so I can modify the jig (yes I know Steve, I should've made my own!). It'll also be used on a cross cut sled I was going to make for the thing.

If any of you have a Scheppach saw and have sourced the correct sized T bar, then please let me know. If I have no luck from Scheppach, then I think soldering or tapping two lengths of aluminium flat bar together (bottom bar measures 20mm x 5mm and the top bar 10mm x 3mm) will do the job.

Thanks in advance for any advice.

Jonny

 

[bucephalus]

Exactly the same situation with my Scheppach 2500CI... any suggestions gratefully received. I'm thinking I might have to go to a local small engineering firm and have them fabricate me a suitable bar..?

 

[Fitzroy]

I know virtually nothing about this subject but I love an internet search challenge. Thought if I could find out the t-slot channel size I could see if I could find a suitable hack. However what I found is that it seems to be a bit of a palaver, and one that has existed for many a year. Thread below has some conversation on possible solutions, hate it when the internet comes up blank!

scheppach-ts2500-t9291.html

F.

 

[MattRoberts]

You can buy t slot router cutters - might be worth a look to see http://www.wealdentool.com/acatalog/Onl ... ot_trim_21

 

[bucephalus]

You can buy t slot router cutters - might be worth a look to see http://www.wealdentool.com/acatalog/Onl ... ot_trim_21

Thanks for the suggestion - but I'm not sure I understand how this would help? :roll:

The table has T-slots in it already, what we need is some sort of T-bar to fit in them..?

 

[JonnyW]

Thanks for the responses.

I received an email back from a UK Scheppach agent, who said they can supply the bar used on the mitre fences (that comes as standard with the saw).

The part number is 53206209 and their number is 01484 400 488 (NMA Agencies Ltd).

Unfortunately the small bar is priced at £28.67 excluding VAT. So the thing is half the price of the jig!

I'm going to attempt at soldering two aluminium flat bars together using low heat solder. I've never done it before, so it might be a complete disaster, but a £4 - £6 for 2 metres and a fiver/ish for the solder, it's the least expensive option and will give me more track bars to use on jigs.

Jonny

 

[JonnyW]

Hmm. Just read up on aluminium brazing and it looks complicated.

It might just be the self-tapper route!

Jonny

 

[MattRoberts]

Thanks for the suggestion - but I'm not sure I understand how this would help? :roll:

The table has T-slots in it already, what we need is some sort of T-bar to fit in them..?

Oh I see - sorry, I misunderstood.

However, do you need a t shape? Surely if you make runners that slide in the thinner channel, that will provide sufficient support to eliminate lateral play?

 

[bucephalus]

However, do you need a t shape? Surely if you make runners that slide in the thinner channel, that will provide sufficient support to eliminate lateral play?

Cheers Matt - to me at least (as a non-engineer) that sounds like a good plan... a piece of 9.5mm x 3.2mm flat aluminium bar (from here as an example: https://www.metals4u.co.uk/aluminium/flat/9.5mm-x-3.2mm-(-38-x-18-)/p244 ) might work? That would just sit in the top part of the slot wouldn't it, like Matt suggests?

Or as another thought, would it be possible to 'stack' two pieces together to form the profile required (which is not an ordinary T shape)? EDIT: Just realised that was what JonnyW meant earlier...

E.g. a piece of 9.5mm x 3.2mm on top of a piece of 19.05mm x 4.76mm

Could they be epoxied together? This site indicates that it is possible with some preparation: http://www.epotek.com/site/files/Techtips/pdfs/Tech_Tip_24_-_Bonding_to_AL.pdf

Its not like they are going to have massive loads exerted on them? Any thoughts?

 

[JonnyW]

You're probably right guys.

The top opening in the T is 10mm wide by 3mm deep, then opens up to 20mm wide by 5mm deep. I could easily make a hardwood rail I suppose or a piece of aluminium that is the width of the top opening as you say - you could have it 8mm deep.

I considered buying a flat bar 20mm wide by 8mm high (need to double check that sizes), and using a Trend router bit and milling it to size using my hand router https://www.trenddirectuk.com/55-3x3-8hss?gclid=CO39hpj5984CFRQz0wodz88CTA

We are only talking a 3mm deep cut by 5mm wide, so I think the Trend bit would do the trick. Using the appropriate cooling wax stick on the bit https://www.trenddirectuk.com/trendiwax?gclid=CMbX8NX5984CFRBmGwodcaQCKg

However that's a bit of work and as you guys have mentioned, just sticking a piece of aluminium the thickness of the top opening seems a logical and easy solution.

Jonny

 

[JonnyW]

just googled flat bar. Trying to find a 10mm wide piece that's 8mm thick!!!!

Jonny

 

[bucephalus]

just googled flat bar. Trying to find a 10mm wide piece that's 8mm thick!!!!

Jonny

Found this guy on eBay selling 10mm x 8mm x 1000mm:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Aluminium...hash=item3ab901c088:m:mJ8DPA31vHsD3WtgBEX6mHw

Less than a tenner delivered...

Gavin

 

[JonnyW]

That's excellent Gavin, thanks for that.

I'm going to go for that.

I was worried about the rail projecting out past the tenon jig and how strong it would be, but having a closer look, it doesn't project out more than 2 or 3 inch, so would be strong enough. And as mentioned, there's not a lot of strain going on it. It after all, just keeps traveling in a straight line.

My cross cut sled will not have the runner projecting past the base, so it'll work a treat.

Thanks again.

Jonny

 

[bucephalus]

I'm going to go for that.

Me too.

Can't believe that nobody came up with Matt's idea before (I've read all these sort of threads on here) - thanks again Matt! =D>

Let's hope it works!

Cheers

Gavin

 

[MattRoberts]

All in a day's work! Hope it works out ok

 

[JonnyW]

Dito for me Gavin.

I'll double check the upper measurement and the exact depth, but that 10x8 bar will do the trick. Stuff paying £34.40 (and £4.5 p&p!!!) for the Scheppach bar that's pretty sloppy.

Jonny

 

[JonnyW]

Gavin. I've ordered 12mm x 8mm from that flea-bay site you copied.

I measured the table saw and it's an 11mm groove. The mitre fence rail measures 10mm, so it's no wonder it's a tad sloppy in the groove.

So I'm going to cut the bar to length and file a mil off the length to get it snug.

I thought about giving the edge of the 10mm bar a punch using a metal centre punch, to increase the width a little, but as you know due to the shape of the inverted T, you could only do this on the upper 3mm of the bar. So it could get messy. I could've tried squashing it in a vice to increase the size a little, but I thought filing a millimetre off the bar wouldn't be too taxing and will allow me to fit the thing like a finger up the proverbial.

Jonny

 

[JonnyW]

Gavin. Tried the 12mm x 8mm and filed it to size. Works a treat.

For a matter of interest, I also ordered the 10mm x 8mm.

A bit sloppy like the mitre gauge, but I gave it a dunt with a centre punch in a couple of places on the upper edge of the aluminium bar, and it tightened up a beauty.

So to save having to file the length of the bar, I'm going to use the 10mm wide bar and a centre punch.

Cheers

Jonny

 

[Steve Maskery]

And by the time you have faffed about getting this bar thingy sorted, you could have made a much better jig that works faster, takes a lot less setup and keeps your fingers safe. But hey, .....

 

[bucephalus]

Glad to hear it worked Jonny.

I solved my problem another way - I bought a sliding table for mine...

Steve - I've got your WE complete bandsaw, keep meaning to getting around to the complete tablesaw...