Help required with long mitres

[Good Surname or what ?]

I posted the question in my tool cabinet project thread- but felt I'd probably get more answers from a post here.

 

[SeanG]

How about hand sawing and then fine tuning on a shooting board?

(Not that I've tried it myself )

 

[Pete W]

Hi Phil,

There'll be someone along shortly with more experience/expertise than me but my advice would be to change the design. Without a tilting table saw the only way I can think of to get accurate tight mitres of the size you need would be a 3ft-long mitre shooting board.

It'd be inclined to go for a drawer/box design, replacing your frame and panel door with a simple plywood panel let into a groove (or rabbet). Then you only need to cut the short corner mitres.

 

[mr]

Donkeys Ear
http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/ ... x?id=28150
Down towards the bottom of the page.

Cheers Mike

 

[Paul Chapman]

Donkeys Ear
http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/ ... x?id=28150
Down towards the bottom of the page.

That would be my preferred method as well. Very accurate and easy to see what you are doing and make corrections if necessary.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

PS Just noticed Chris' suggestion on the Projects thread about Robert Wearing's variation of the donkey's ear shooting board. That would be even better as you don't have to hold the wood at an angle. I saw Robert's one at a show many years ago where he had a small stand - it's a very good design.

 

[Scrit]

Do you have an overhand planer (jointer)? If so the obvious approach is to cant the fence back to 45 degrees and plane the edge - gives a much better finish than sawing, but you have to watch out that you mark off the joint and plabne very, very carefully

Scrit

 

[Alf]

Or you could put a fence on a plane and take the tool to the work. Like the bottom of the page here - 'cept you may not have a Stanley 386 or similar handy so might have to bodge-up a wooden alternative.

Cheers, Alf

 

[Good Surname or what ?]

thanks for all the responses.

I do have a Scheppach 260 p/t. I guess I could do as Scrit suggests and get close to the marked lines. Then switch to a verrryyy looongg shooting board (yet to be made - why is it all projects involve sub-projects?) along the Wearing design.

I promise WIPS - eventually :roll:

 

[motownmartin]

I am not an experienced woodworker but i'd say this is where a router table becomes a god send, thats how I would do it anyway.

Good luck

Martin

 

[Pete W]

Donkeys Ear
http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/ ... x?id=28150
Down towards the bottom of the page.

That would be my preferred method as well. Very accurate and easy to see what you are doing and make corrections if necessary.

Um... am I alone in spotting the Catch 22 here? I quote from the referenced Taunton website:
"Making this board may look somewhat daunting, but it is simple. The important element is to rip the ledge at a perfect 45°."

If one had the ability to rip a long board at "a perfect 45°", why would one need a donkey's ear shooting board?

Pete (and genuinely perplexed)

 

[Paul Chapman]

Um... am I alone in spotting the Catch 22 here? I quote from the referenced Taunton website:
"Making this board may look somewhat daunting, but it is simple. The important element is to rip the ledge at a perfect 45°."

If one had the ability to rip a long board at "a perfect 45°", why would one need a donkey's ear shooting board?

Pete (and genuinely perplexed)

While I agree that this does seem a bit contradictory, I think you would find that, once you had made up a shooting board, mitres shot on it (both long grain and short grain) would be better than those produced by other methods (see also the Bob Wearing-style shooting board on the similar thread in the projects section).

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[Good Surname or what ?]

Pete,

The catch-22 was not lost on me either. But the challenge of making the shooting board is great but probably less than that of producing 4 mitres each 1000mm long and 4 each 550mm long without one.

 

[Lord Nibbo]

why bother making special jigs or shooting boards? If you got a router and clamp you could do it like this

Just use a large chamfer bit.

 

[woodbutcher]

why not cut it roughly at the 45 and with a router and 45 cutter finish it of with a straight edge.




woodbutcher.

 

[Pete W]

While I agree that this does seem a bit contradictory, I think you would find that, once you had made up a shooting board, mitres shot on it (both long grain and short grain) would be better than those produced by other methods

Agreed - I'm a big fan of shooting boards.

@Phil - hope you keep us updated with your progress.