Help please

[tony]

Hi folks , what is the easiest way to turn something 130mm long x 25mm dia with a 12mm hole running the length , ps I don't have a four jaw chuck just in case this is required , thanks for looking , Tony

 

[bellringer]

pre drill the piece with and extra long 6mm drill then plug one end with a round dowel and the the plug end put the 4 prong drive and then the live center i the other turn to size then drill out the plug and trim the other end as it will be over size from the center job done

 

[bogmonster]

Assuming you have some kind of chuck, screw will do, or a faceplate at a push....

Drill stock in drill press. Mount scrap to screwchuck / faceplate. Turn a short round cylinder about 20mm in diameter with a spigot just under 12mm to center stock. Use this as a friction drive. Use tail stock with live center at the other end. Could use some glue if you can cut the cylinder down to length a bit when finished but should not be required. You can turn pen barrels this way as well

I think that is what I would do but to be honest I hardly ever spindle turn so there may be a much easier way.

BM

 

[bellringer]

Assuming you have some kind of chuck, screw will do, or a faceplate at a push....

Drill stock in drill press. Mount scrap to screwchuck / faceplate. Turn a short round cylinder about 20mm in diameter with a spigot just under 12mm to center stock. Use this as a friction drive. Use tail stock with live center at the other end. Could use some glue if you can cut the cylinder down to length a bit when finished but should not be required. You can turn pen barrels this way as well

I think that is what I would do but to be honest I hardly ever spindle turn so there may be a much easier way.

BM

That sound like hard work

 

[tony]

It does sound like hard work compared to the other option but thanks for giving it thought & replying , cheers Tony

 

[CHJ]

Rough turn your cylinder about 1/3 oversize in diameter and 20mm or so longer than required between centres.
Ideally use a hollow tailstock and long auger to drill a pilot hole down the centre, alternate is to do likewise with a long series drill off the lathe and open up to 12mm.

Turn a short stepped spindle between centres with a nominal 12mm shaft with a slight taper to say 13mm diam.

Remount your spindle between centres using the stepped spindle as the drive centre and the tailstock centre in the 12mm bore.

Turn spindle to size and part to length within a few mm of bore hole and finish ends by hand.

 

[bogmonster]

Oh well, I tried. Appears I make hard work of everything I do on the lathe. Glad This is just a hobby for me. Chas, your approach is practically the same except your friction drive is turned with drive centre, not screw chuck.

BM

 

[CHJ]

Chas, your approach is practically the same except your friction drive is turned with drive centre, not screw chuck.

That's because:-

.. ps I don't have a four jaw chuck just in case this is required , thanks for looking , Tony

and screwing blanks to a face plate and mounting a screw centre would be just as long a task as basic spindle turning.


And Tony:-not everything in turning is an easy option, but with a little lathe practise the method most likely to give you a true running spindle is often the quickest.
Always bore holes first and use them to align the piece, rarely can you bore a hole true to centre in a piece of wood.

 

[bogmonster]

I do agree my approach is a bit overkill. Used it when I made some largish cylinders(8x8 inches) for an apple mill. Not 100% convinced by the headstock prong drive used to drive the friction drive. Sounds like it might be easy to get out of line. I guess it depends on the accuracy required. On re-thinking I might try turning a morse taper on the friction drive so that it is guaranteed to be aligned properly with the headstock. This is of course re-inventing the wheel because that is exactly what the axminster light pull mandrel does. Of course there is a bit of work getting the taper dimensioned properly but nothing an average turner should not be able to handle in a few of minutes surely? Now I remember why I only faceplate bowl turn - much easier in my simple brain and never any need to measure anything.

 

[chipmunk]

I think there may be a much easier way if the 12mm hole doesn't need to be perfectly concentric all the way through. After all at that length drilling in from both ends only requires a little over 65mm from each side which is well within the capabilities of an ordinary 12mm jobber bit and the distances are short enough that the offset will be minimal because a 12mm drill will not flex and follow the grain to any great extent.

In this case it'd probably be just fine to turn the cylinder first and drill afterwards.

If you create a shallow pilot hole in each end with a smaller drill bit, say 5mm by trapping the turned piece between head and tailstocks with a Jacob's chuck and drill bit in the headstock and a 60 degree centre in the tailstock cranking in from the tailstock end and holding the blank still with your other hand. Then follow through with your 12mm jobber from both ends it should meet pretty well in the middle with minimal offset.

It'd be well worth making sure your drill bit and tailstock will pass the kiss-test before you start this though. If you use a bullet point drill like the one in the picture you could avoid the pilot hole step.

HTH
Jon

 

[Spindle]

Hi

I'd go about it in a similar fashion to Chas but I'd spindle turn plugs to fit both ends like this:

Easier to part the final item to exact length if you use two plugs

If you err on the slightly small side you can always take up the slack with a layer of tissue.

Regards Mick

 

[Dalboy]

Hi

I'd go about it in a similar fashion to Chas but I'd spindle turn plugs to fit both ends like this:



Easier to part the final item to exact length if you use two plugs

If you err on the slightly small side you can always take up the slack with a layer of tissue.

Regards Mick

That is how I would do it. Especially if you don't own a revolving centre.

 

[tony]

Thanks to everyone who suggested something , im sure it wont be a problem now that ive got all that info & apologies for not getting back sooner , cheers Tony

 

[Robbo3]

Oh well, I tried. Appears I make hard work of everything I do on the lathe. Glad This is just a hobby for me. Chas, your approach is practically the same except your friction drive is turned with drive centre, not screw chuck.BM

One man in his shed comes across a problem & solves it. Because he has a solution he is happy & doesn't go looking for other options.

Woodturning used to be a dark art with closely guarded secrets. Fortunately, times have changed & those who make a living out of woodturning now share their expertise & knowledge with us. Time is money to them, so they have probably found the fastest solutions & we benefit by having a selection to choose from.