Help - I've been given a job to do

[newbieblyth]

My wife's cousin has asked me to make something like these for her beauty salon
a towel holder:

and something like this:
a nail station:

For her beauty salon.

Has anyone got any advice on materials, I would like to build both from the same material for the sake of looks. I suspect probably the best bet is going to be veneered mdf, but I then have the problems of edging - I may not go with the fancy curve on the nail station. Also the nail station needs to be able to be wiped down.

My first thoughts for the towel holder was to replace the metal shelves with plywood and then investing in a biscuit jointer to construct. I personally hate flat pack style construction with press on screw covers etc.

Oh well its not quite what I had in mind when I was assembling my tool wish list. But she is willing to pay for them- so perhaps I can have a table saw too

 

[LyNx]

towel holder:
18mm veneered mdf with iron on edging. Shelves in 6mm MDF sprayed to RAL9006. You can get spraycans made up at most good paint shops.

Nail Station:
30mm MDF cut to shape, then laminated both sides with a grey laminate. The edges can then be stained to match the laminate colour and then apply a few coats of sealer to the edges. Or you could edge with the laminate first, trim flush and then face both sides.

Pole leg from hafele, approx 900mm height in either 60 or 80mm diameter (i think) - i do have one of these spare if you want.

Hope these ideas help.

 

[newbieblyth]

LynX thanks for that. I probably wasn't too clear in my original post (spent too long getting the images and links in!). I'm not neccessarily going for an exact replica of these in terms of finish. So for the nail station I probably would want a wood effect or laminate to match that of the towel rail, rather than the nasty black effect they have there.

Also I'm not sure I'm going to be up to doing my own laminates yet, and I haven't had very happy experiences with Iron on edging in the past. I was probably more thinking on the lines of some kind of wood lipping for the faces. I have read postings before on the lines of just add some lipping. But where do you get it from, or do you have to make your own from think stock - if so I'm not too sure I have the machinery.

 

[LyNx]

i would say iron on edging is your best bet. Trying to machine 3mm lippings isn't easy if you don't know how. I would get some, and have a practice. It's really easy once you know how.

I think black or dark grey is going to be a better colour for the top as it's also to show off the nails (not that i know)

Where abouts in the counrty are you? Someone may be able to help you out for a small fee

 

[newbieblyth]

Thanks, again.

I hadn't thought about the colour- I will have to discuss exactly what is wanted with the client.

I'm in the West Midlands- Bewdley to be specific.

I'll have to experiment I guess.

I think my problems in the past were largely around trimming - I was trying to do it with a knife, I think perhaps a router may be a better path...

Cheers

 

[LyNx]

I was trying to do it with a knife, I think perhaps a router may be a better path...

Router :shock: :shock:

Try a sharp chisel or a stanley knife blade.

 

[Paul Chapman]

I haven't had very happy experiences with Iron on edging in the past.

Hi newbieblyth,

As Lynx says, iron-on edging is quite easy to apply. Here's what I do (this applies to both the plastic and wood types). I cut the board with a router to get a nice square edge. To ensure the cut edge is really smooth, I go over it with a well-worn Cintride hand sander (piece of fine sandpaper on a block of wood would do just as well). Ensure all sanding dust is cleaned off. Cut the edging slightly over length. Go over the edge of the cut board with the iron to warm it. Place the edging on the board, making sure to centralise it. Cover the edging with paper and run the iron very slowly along it. Using a smooth block of wood, go over the edging, pressing hard to ensure it is fully stuck down. Put aside to cool. When cool, trim edging flush with very sharp, finely set block plane.

Hope this helps :wink:

Paul

 

[jasonB]

For tehtowel holder I would agree with lynx, veneered MDf for the carcase and 6mm MDF for the shelves set into routed grooves. The shelves can be painted with Plasticote sprays from your local shed and finished with acrylic lacquer, I did this CD rack in the same way.

The top for the nail counter could be from a solid timber worktop, Ikea do them in short lengths or from the same veneer as the towel unit doubled up for extra thickness and edged with iron on edging (you van get it upto 50mm wide) and it will bend to those curves.

Hafale legs can be a bit hard to get hold of try Ironmongery Direct or even B&Q do quite a range.

Trying to balance a router on the edge of a board is asking for trouble, try taking the blade out of your blockplane or a wide chisel.

Jason

 

[engineer one]

of course you could also go made, and buy one of the vitrex
trimmers which i find quite useful, not least because it cuts both sides.

paul :wink:

 

[Scrit]

As Lynx says, iron-on edging is quite easy to apply.....

Unless it's round a curved edge like that nail station top. In the absence of a profile edge bander the suggested low tech method: large diameter polished screwdriver and heat gun - use with care to warm the edging and melt the glue then press on with the side of the screwdriver shaft - do 6 inches or so at a time. An iron wont work on inside radii..... We used to di this on PoS stands with a 15mm inside corner radius where no machine would go so I know it works.

For triming use a block plane, like Jason says, or if it's melamine-faced stuff (probably harder wearing for the station) use a Stanley glass scraper held at an angle angled inwards slightly.

30mm MDF? Probably easier to glue/screw two pieces of 15mm together - and much easier to obtain I'd say, although I like Jason's worktop offcut idea, too

Scrit