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sawdustjon

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manchester united kingdom
Hi! fellow woodturners, here is my perfect opportunity to gain a little info and help to a couple of problems I am having. I am a hobby woodturner (mostly spindle turning), self taught, this is where the problem lies. Not having a teacher to guide me through the basics from the beginning I get stuck when things don't go to plan.
Recently I have been turning slender spindles and when I get half-way to the tailstock the work vibrates and no matter how gentle I am with the skew I cannot turn it to smooth.
I have tried to turn a pepper grinder and I am having a little difficulty drilling the centre hole. Should I drill a pilot hole through first, should I drill from both ends or should I just pop to the local shop and buy one and present it to my wife after removing the label?
really any help would be gratefully received,
John
 
the slender spindle will basically require you to support it with your spare hand - you may not think you have one but fingers for the piece and thumb for the skew works for me :)

you have a lot of choices re the pepper mill
 
Thanks Colin, I do own a couple of woodturning books (however, not the one you recomended) but it would be nice to have some-one to advise you on how to avoid the mistakes before they happen.
I am thinking of joining a woodwork club, but at the moment I have no transport (just waiting to get over a hip replacement before I can get another car) and the closest clubs a difficult to get to on public transport. Plus they wont let you take a big lathe on the bus round here.
Thanks jumps I shall give it a go, I will try and practice this feat of slight of hand magic you speak of.
John
 
This could be a good place to start for your pepper mill? There are several episodes to it and the little bit I have watched looks quite good.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2e1NPhAegrE

The support fr thin spindles isn't difficult. Once the spindle is round all you need to do is to support the skew with your thumb as said and just support the turning wood by laying your fingers over the spindle so as to dampen any vibration. Make sure that your finger tips are WELL past the top of the spindle and can't be caught into the gap between the spindle and tool rest. Otherwise it will either break the spindle or give you the best manicure you have ever had :shock: :shock:

Not at all dangerous if you are a bit careful. Don't apply too much pressure or it will warm yer hand quite quickly. If it does vibrate it will give you a spiral pattern. You can get rid of that very easily by sanding it out. Bin ther, done that! :?

Good luck and remember, the only stupid question is the one you don't ask. We all had to start at the beginning knowing nuffin!
 
I am only a "being self taught" beginner but I have found using the following method works best for me:-

When turning a slender spindle object (such as a lace bobbin) I turn an inch at a time starting at the tailstock end. I completely finish that peice before moving further back towards the headstock. That means I never have to touch it with a gouge again and I am always working near to the thicker stock.

This video by James Santhon shows the idea starting from the 9th minute:-

http://www.youtube.com/user/wnwoodworks ... 91qCI27Aq0
 
Hi John,

When making peppermills I rough it to a regular cylinder first, then bore the hole (from both ends if it's a long mill or a short drill).

Once you've got a hole at both ends then you can turn a wooden "bush" to plug each end. Mark the centre of each bush with a bradawl before removing them from the lathe so you can recentre them exactly. At this stage I finish one or both ends of the mill depending on design and mechanism as once it's mounted between centres for turning you obviously can't get to the ends. Then mount the spindle held by the bushes between centres to turn the outside shape.

I actually made up a steel mandrel to do this with nylon bushes, it works in exactly the same way as a pen mandrel.

If you turn the outside then remount to bore the hole you can guarantee that the hole will be off-centre, usually more at the far end as the drill will tend to wander as it goes deeper.
 
Hi

I'm self taught too and an avid spindle turner - ways I have discovered of addressing the 'barley twist' caused by the work vibrating are to: support the work with my 'other' hand, revese the direction of the cut, adjust the lathe speed and take very light cuts - not necessarily at the same time :wink:
Hope this helps.

Mick
 
Thanks guys, I am really pleased that I signed up to this site, it is a mine of useful information. The videos that were recommended are very good and yes I will try the hand support when turning spindles and working back from the tailstock, something that I had not thought of. Thanks for the tutorial mick, most helpful. I have found a local woodturning club not too far away. I have mist this months meeting but will go next month.
I hope to be using this forum for more of my problem solving in the near future, thanks again guys.
john
 
You'll never regret signing up for this forum. The people are so helpful, and nothing is too much trouble to explain and help with. Welcome to the slippery slope.
 
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