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Help completing some Garage Doors

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ossieosborne

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I am making a pair of 2m x 1m wooden doors for a friend. I’ve built the 2 frames (2 stiles, 3 rails and 2 braces each) using M & T joints. All fairly straightforward up to this point.

I have T & G panelling to fix to the frames, but don’t know what to attach it with. I don’t want some opportunist tea leaf to come along and have an easy time taking off the panelling.

Question:

Do I nail the T & G panelling on?
Using galvanised ring shank nails, punched just below the surface, filling the holes with suitable filler and paint over the top.
Using galvanised ring shank nails flush with the surface and paint over the top.

Or, do I screw it on with some sort of security type fastenings? :?

The next problem is regarding the surface finish. It is to be opaque paint and from a trawl of the forum and Google I have narrowed it down to Butinox 3. I have applied knotting to the bare wood (frames and panelling) but I’m unsure as to which primer to use under the topcoat. The T & G will be primed and given 1 topcoat prior to attachment.

2nd Question:

What is a suitable oil based primer to use with Butinox 3?

Cheers

Oz
 

Noel

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What thickness is the T & G sheeting?
 

ossieosborne

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It's only to stop the oportunist. If someone was determined, it wouldn't matter how thick it was. I take your point though phil.

I'm just looking for the best method of fixing what i've got.

Oz
 

Oryxdesign

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you could screw some ply to the backs of the doors, this would help them stay square and stop the opportunist thief.
 

Doug B

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Hi Oz,

I like to house the paneling into the frame like this





Though I like to make my own paneling as I`ve found shop bought T&G can shrink more than the length of the tongue & so lead to gaps. A simple half lap about 15mm as in the photos works well for me
I nail the paneling to the mid & bottom rails & braces with ring shank stainless nails.

HTH.

Cheers.

Doug
 

Noel

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ossieosborne":2310yg77 said:
14mm Noel

Oz
As said, 14 mm will do little from a security POV but as you say, it's a deterrent. With that in mind it makes little difference how the boards are secured. I prefer screwed and filled. As Oryx has suggested, ply secured to the inside would be an additional security feature, just make sure your hinges are up the additional weight.
 

dickm

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Traditionally, wouldn't such boarding be fixed with nails 1/2" or so longer than the combined thickness of rails and boarding, with the protruding points then clenched over? Slightly more secure than ring shank, and pretty easy to do. Doesn't look that pretty on the clenched side, but it's effective.
 

ossieosborne

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Thanks to all for your responses.

I have some good ideas to work with now.

I still need some pointers toward a good oil based primer to use under the Butinox 3 though.

Oz
 

Bradshaw Joinery

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i use brads from a pin gun on the skew. pin at the side of the boards at 45 degrees out, never had a problem with the boards pulling away. especially 14mm boards.

opaque primer bestoff ringing up the campany who manufacture the topcoat to get a sugestion, or a finishings company,

i use abbots of fleckney, they offer advice on all there products, could be worth a phone call.
 

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