Help Bob!!!??

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Froggy

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Hi All,

This is a plea to Bob 9 Fingers specifically but I would be grateful for anyones help. My table (a Wadkin 12" ags ) is not responding. When I try to switch it on there is nothing. It's a 3hp single phase motor and in the past I have blown a couple of fuses when the motor has struggled with a cut. The fuse then was a 16A, but I upped it to a 20A and have had no problem since. A couple of days ago I made a cut of very thick oak that the saw struggled a little bit with, but after the cut the saw was still running fine and I switched off. Last night when I tried to turn the saw on there was nothing. I have changed the fuse but still nothing. I am not great when it comes to mechanics and electrics, so any help or advice would be welcome.

Cheers Froggy.
 
i think his website is on the bottom of his posts which should have a contact email address on it.
 
Depends on how handy you are with a multimeter (and if you have one).

Firstly have you plugged something that you KNOW works into the same socket? Does it power up?

Next you need to test the voltage at the fuse/check the fuse. If you can't check it then change it for a brand new one/one that is known to be good.

After that we get into multimeter land.
 
mbartlett99":9lw700fk said:
Depends on how handy you are with a multimeter (and if you have one).

Firstly have you plugged something that you KNOW works into the same socket? Does it power up?

Next you need to test the voltage at the fuse/check the fuse. If you can't check it then change it for a brand new one/one that is known to be good.

After that we get into multimeter land.

I've already tried the fuses, not them. I can't test the plug socket with something else because I don't have anything else with the same type of plug. It's not your standard 3 pin plug, it's a 2 pin that is designed (I think) for a higher voltage or ampage!

I don't have a multimeter and if we're going there I guess I have to get hold of an electrican.

Thank you Froggy.
 
Ok.

2 pin plug sounds like a Schuko (used in Germany/Netherlands) you could post a pic or it may well have 240V on it. Amperage is irrelevant.

I take it that your saw is 240V single phase (is it a standard UK plug or standard French plug?). If your saw has a big red plug it'll be 400V - but it'll also say on the motor name plate.

You could also just have a quick look at the breakers and see if ones tripped.
 
OK I've established that I have power to the socket and I have taken photo's of the plug and the switch box below. The motor is definatelt single phase as that's all I have, but there is (suprisingly) no information plate on the motor, or at least that I can see. Does this help any? Do I need an electrican and his multimeter?

PA120037.jpg


PA120039.jpg
 
Ok, for future reference thats a schuko plug, which you can get at Leroi Merlin/Castorama if you ever need another (or an extension cord etc). Its 240V single phase.

As someone said next would be to look for an overload trip - see that thing next to the MTE logo? I can't make out if its a switch or not. Unplug the machine and press it (or look for some other little button to press). Just make sure its all unplugged when you do any of this.

Otherwise I'm afraid its multimeter time.
 
Wallace I don't know what an overload on the starter is but I've taken a photo of the box attached to the motor which is the next stop after the switch box.

PA120044.jpg


mbarlett I've tried all the buttons switches in there (including the one next to the MTB logo) in as many combinations as possible and got no joy!
 
Couple of possibilities.

I've got a 3HP single phase Lutz jumbo. It's got a thermal sensor inside the motor. When it gets too hot it releases the NVR, and it wont run again till it's cooled enough. The sensor failed completely a while back and the saw wouldn't start. The NVR wouldn't 'hold in'.

If you've got the same type sensor in the motor, it will probably be indicated by the motor supply cable having 4 wires instead of three i.e. .....LIVE, NEUTRAL, EARTH + SENSOR RETURN. Can't tell on your pic.


If the NVR is 'holding in', the next possibility is the CAPACITOR. This test is to be done with extreme caution. Spin the saw blade in the direction of normal travel USING A LENGTH OF WOOD (NOT YOU FINGERS). Immediately hit the NVR to start the saw. If the saw kicks into life then the cap is almost certainly the problem.

HTH,

Roy
 
Yesterday I arranged an electrican friend to come this morning but in bed last night I wandered if I had tried all combinations of button pressing in the switch box. Not wanting egg on my face this morning I've been in the workshop to try it again and hey presto I've got it working. You can see on the photo a small white switch above the red stop button in the bottom right hand corner. In the picture it is down, yesterday I tried it in the up and down positions and this morning when I went in it was up. I put it down and then pressed the black button next to the MTE logo and it started. I can't be 100% certain that I did this yesterday but I feel pretty sure that I did, which is a little puzzling but eh it's working and for now that's all that matters.

Thank you everyone for help Froggy.
 
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