help, auto switching of extractor

[stevel]

Can anyone help. I want to get my extractor (SIP) to switch on with my table saw. Sheppach do a switch for £115 but as I have seen, many workshop vacs have auto switching and cost from £20 pounds. Are there any switches available for reasonable money or is it possible to buy the components and make one? Hopefully someone can advice me and save me a bundle!

steve

 

[9fingers]

There are a number of ways of achieving this.
The simplest would be a current operated relay which senses the current in the supply to all your machines. When a particular current is exceeded (ie by one of your machines being switched on) the relay contacts close and switch on the dust extractor.

The downside of this method is that you would have to wind a suitable coil for a voltage operated relay as current operated relays are not widely available to the amateur market. Minimal wiring but needs a modified relay

The other way is to use a voltage operated relay on each machine and wire them up in parallel to operate the dust extractor. More relays, more wire but standard parts.

Neither are rocket science and the choice is up to you.

hth

Bob

 

[CHJ]

Can anyone help. I want to get my extractor (SIP) to switch on with my table saw. ...snip..
steve

Steve, the first thing you will have to do is remove (bypass) the No-Volt safety switch in the SIP.

I have done this with my extractor which sits outside the workshop in its own little shed.

Check the rating of your No-Volt switch unit on the saw, It MAY be rated high enough to supply both units, If so a suitable socket mounted on the saw frame and wired into it's output would do the trick, Worst case change the Saw No-Volt unit to a higher current rated unit.

 

[stevel]

Thanks for the advice guys. I want the extractor to work with my P/T as well, but it sits next to this in the workshop so turning on and of is no problem. Ideally I would like a\double socket on a lead that I can plug the extractor and a power tool into to facititate switching. Bob, can you send me a circuit diagram to produce a switch, I think I can follow one and it should be interesting to see how it works. I assume I can get the relay from RS or equivalent.

Thanks

Steve

 

[9fingers]

Steve,

Looking at RS prices, the current relay 349-800 is £46.99, associated current transformer, 351-106 is £24.84 and a socket for the relay is £3.62.
All plus vat of course.
I suspect this might be a bit more than you were expecting.

I have another solution.
Fit each of your machines with a 13 amp socket wired directly to the motor side of the power switch such that the socket is only live when the motor is running.
Put a long lead on your dust extractorand plug it into the machine you are currently using. It will then switch on and off with the machine.
Should cost you lessthan a fiver per machine.

Hope this helps

Bob


PS I've just read an earlier reply from CHJ which is offering the same solution - I'll crawl back under my stone

 

[stevel]

Thanks Bob, I will give it a go.

Cheers

Steve

 

[Shadowfax]

I know this has been mentioned before but before you get too technical you could try my solution.
I have wired a 16 amp pull cord switch into the circuit for the extractor. The pull cord is near enough to most of the machines that use extraction because the workshop is not too big. If yours is biggger you could always install more than one pull cord switch. It's simple and if you need to move the switch, you can.

Cheers.

SF

 

[ivan]

I used to have the cord pull switch fixed high on the wall, with the cord running round the machines, just under the ceiling. (use a few screw eyes)

A better method, I think, is my Lidl radio controlled switching! These sets cost about 10 quid, and you get 4 13A radio (switch) controlled socket adaptors (1 may be a dimmer) and a remote control, which I keep in my pocket. The extractor's starter is wired up to one of the radio switches, so that when I press the button on the remote, the starter coil pulls in, switching on the extractor. The vac is also supplied from a radio switch, for use with router or router table, etc. This set up has been going for about 4 years, and I'm very happy with it.

 

[AndyBoyd]

I've just found a supplier for these Master Slave Units here in the Netherlands, as 17 Euros each a bargain.
http://www.kemo-electronic.de/en/module/m103/index.htm

Maplin used to do them, but no more might be worth Googling and see who supplies them in the UK.

 

[MickCheese]

Would this work?

http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?Tab ... &criteria=

Or would it just melt under the load?

 

[stevel]

Mick, I think they would melt under the load unfortunately.

Andy, thanks for the info. I have found a catalogue in germany (westfalia) who have them at 15.50 euros so have ordered 2. I'll let you know how they perform.

Steve

 

[tiler99]

Have you got the link to the site?

 

[stevel]

Here is the link. I have gotten a friend who speaks german to order them for me.

http://www1.westfalia.de/shops/technica ... 0_v_ac.htm

 

[Les1693]

Axminster do a master/slave multi socket, it's not cheap at £49 though.

Here's the link -
http://www.axminster.co.uk/product-Brennenstuhl-Slave-and-Master-Multi-Socket-22756.htm

 

[Shultzy]

Westfalia have a uk site, although I can't find the master slave module, you could email them to see if they can get it for you.
http://www2.westfalia.net

This site is for home automation which has all items for switching on appliances remotely
http://www.letsautomate.com

 

[mrbmcg]

Just a quick warning to everyone using these kemo master slave units. If you are using any equipment which has a blade brake they can get a bit noisy. The blade brake on my Felder saw causes the relay inside the unit to chatter very badly and I already blew the unit once and had to replace it. (I bought two).