Hardwax oil on furniture

[Leif]

I applied Fiddes hardwax oil to an elm chest of drawers which I had spent ages stripping back to the bare wood. The draws came out beautifully, including the wooden handles which were inset into the draw fronts. However, the frame is not good. I applied the finish with a rag, rubbing it in as per Danish Oil, so as to get a thin coatings. What I found is that the second coat is uneven, there are areas that are darker, and in places dark lines. In short it looks naff. So, what went wrong, and how do I correct this? Why did the draws come out so well, but the frame didn't? I have a suspicion it is because the oil dries fairly quickly, and the oil on the rag dried, making it useless for applying a thin layer, but I am not sure. Or perhaps I should not have rubbed the finish so much, and it just needs to be applied, and smoothed quickly, and then left.

I intend to give the frame a light sand with grade 400 abrasive, until the finish is even. Hopefully I will not have to strip it again. I will then apply a top coat. I could use Danish Oil, which I know will go on easily and look good, but it is not as tough as hardwax oil. I would rather use the hardwax oil, but I am concerned that I will fluff it again. What if I thin it with white spirits? If so, what proportion?

 

[Charlie Woody]

I find it easier and quicker to brush the oil on, and wipe off excess with a cloth. Do small area at a time and keep using a clean part of the cloth or use a fresh one. Don't know about thinning, but I would phone Fiddes to check.

 

[MrYorke]

First and last time I used the Fiddes hard wax oil, they told me to brush it on then wipe off with a clean cloth (t-shirt perhaps) and that was from the guys at the factory in Cardiff

Perhaps the application was wrong but wouldn't have thought it would make too much of a difference

 

[RogerP]

I've found Chestnut hard wax oil better than Fiddes. It goes on more evenly and dries much quicker.

 

[nev]

I've found Chestnut hard wax oil better than Fiddes. It goes on more evenly and dries much quicker.

But it does go 'off' in the can within 12 months (dont know if its the same with all brands)

 

[RogerP]

Mine has never lasted that long for me to know

 

[Leif]

Thanks all. Yes, they do say to paint on, then wipe off. It is almost as if you have to keep a wet edge. I tested on a 60cm square piece of elm (a shelf from a cupboard) and the result was lovely, very impressive. I think I will email them and see what they say. This must be user error, but I'm not sure what!

I'm rather pee'd off because the first coat (I used the American stained one) was gorgeous, really really nice. The chest is now almost stripped back to bare wood, but the damned corners are a pain (where a wide board meets a frame slat).

 

[Woodfinish Man]

I find it easier and quicker to brush the oil on, and wipe off excess with a cloth. Do small area at a time and keep using a clean part of the cloth or use a fresh one. Don't know about thinning, but I would phone Fiddes to check.

White Spirit will be the thinner.

 

[Leif]

Thanks all.

Just in case anyone is interested, having completely stripped the chest (but not the drawers) for a second time, I applied the hardwax oil using the manufacturers instructions and as described above i.e. with a brush, and a supply of small clean cloths. I thinned the oil with 5-10% white spirit. That seems to have done the trick. It looks like this finish does not soak in as much as Danish Oil, and dries much more rapidly, so wiping off the excess with a clean cloth is essential to ensure a very thin coat.

So, user error. I assumed it would be like Danish Oil, it ain't.

 

[marcros]

I would agree that it doesn't seem to soak in much. Less so as the bottle ages and it thickens a bit. It seems almost like a tin of varnish in consistency. I do like the effect it gives though.