Hardpoint saws can you

[momo]

remove the teeth and sharpen as if an older type saw when the teeth break ? or is it pointless.

 

[OLD]

They are to hard to sharpen, induction hardening i think.

 

[momo]

Thanks OLD, guess its time to turn it into scrapers then.

 

[tnimble]

It can be done to get a resharpened same size saw however not easy if you have not got the right kit to unharden the teeth section without getting into trouble with the tention released unevenly. However just as you can make scrapers you can make small saw(s) from it if you wanted.

 

[pedder]

remove the teeth and sharpen as if an older type saw when the teeth break ? Or is it pointless.

Hi Momo,

Yes, this could be done. But you do live in the old saw heaven. 8) Why do you want to buy new saws, cut the teeth (wich means to me destroy at least one hacksaw blade) and retooth it, if you can buy an semi-old Spear & Jackson for the same price and have a better saw:

- The old backsaws are better because their backs are heavier.
- The old handsaws are better, because they're bigger then the saws they sell today.

:wink:

Cheers Pedder


PS: sorry for the router gag i could not resist.

 

[momo]

Hi Pedder, erm I'm not going to wreck a new saw, I have 2 old ones that are hardpoint, one is a stanley panel that came with a B&Q stanley workbox the other is a Jetsaw, both have broken teeth.

I love old saws though, I have to admit, you can at least re sharpen them and use them for donkeys years, so much for progress huh. I got myself another tenon saw (crownshaw) on fleabay the other day so its definately "the slope" for me, mind you I still havent got my brass backed one so who knows how many I will get!!. Or planes for that matter. :lol:

Thank god I dont collect nails or screws

 

[pedder]

Ahhh

in this case, I would do some testfilling on the "backs" of the saws

Brass backs? Don't Know if they are better than steel. More cuves in them but they're easier to straighten. Best thing about brass: no rust.

Cheers Pedder

 

[Jake]

I am not sure the steel will be suitable - the point, as I understand it, of hard-point saws is that the teeth are ground, and then (just the teeth) are induction hardened. Other than the teeth, the blade probably isn't hard enough to use as a saw (or a scraper) as is (without hardening and tempering), unlike a trad saw. But, metalwork is not my thing, so I may just be way out of my depth.

 

[Benchwayze]

I tend to like my old panel saws, but when I boarded out my loft, which is poky, there wasn't room to blunder around up there, wielding my big 'Disston'. So I bought a hardpoint just for that one task. Cost a fiver!

I was impressed with how well it cut so I decided I would try to wear the thing out. Well, it's still as sharp as when I got it and it isn't fussy about ripping, cross-cutting or even heavy pruning. So, why ruin my good saws on plywood, chipboard and mdf?

When this thing dies, I will leave it for the scrappie and buy another to keep for those rough jobs!
As for broken saw-teeth, I use a Gents' saw for dovetailing. My favourite has a tooth missing. I just got rid of the tiny bit of set and carried on using it. Can't say it has upset the performance all that much, but maybe it depends on individual standards!



Regards
John