Hand Plane Tuning - How far?

[Bluekingfisher]

Having recently had my interest in hand tools, specifically planes and chisels rekindled during the process of building my wall tool cabinet I have, as any hobby/enthusiast woodworker taken to investigating various methods of sharpening and tuning my tools. I have read and viewed what seems like countless video and blogs on the subject of tuning and sharpening. as a result I have come to the conclusion the level and degree of advice from the contributors falls into two categories. That is 1. The Professionals craftsmen/woodworkers and 2. The eager enthusiasts. No great discovery that i hear you say but as someone who is always time challenged I was looking for the most efficient, effective and economic means of tuning my tools.

The Pro approach appears to be, to me at least, effecting a precision tool in the least amount of time possible. I guess their philosophy being, time is money, whereby time fiddling with tools is unproductive and unnecessary. While the amateur approach seems to be fiddle and tinker, experiment and then tinker a little bit more. I am not criticising this approach as it seems to suit the contributor while gaining a great deal of pleasure from their activities. In addition, I found a lot of what they had to say and offer valuable. I am also not disputing the fact the tool becomes any less efficient as any plane in a pro workshop. Although it just seems to take a lot more unnecessary time effort and money spent to get there.

I believe it fair to state, few if any plane straight from the factory is ready to go to work, some of course are nearer that grade then others although some degree of tuning is ultimately still required. I recently watched a video where the pro craftsman took a plane (Stanley #4) new from the box, tuned it and was and taking waffer thin shavings within 20 minutes. This included flattening the sole, adjusting/tuning the frog, lapping and sharpening the blade and mating the chip breaker with the iron. All achieved with tools and accessories most of us would have in our workshops. Contrast this with the advice given by the "expert" hobbyist where they would let you believe the plane is not functional until every flat surface is gleaming and lapped like the Royal silver by use of lapping fluids, grinding pastes, thicker blades and very expensive jigs.

I only mention this as being relatively inexperienced with tuning hand tools ( I am sure there are many like me out there) I was initially a daunted by the thought having to spend days on end bringing my tools to a useable state. I take comfort from the fact if a craftsman can have a highly tuned tool within 20 minutes maybe I can achieve the same result in a similar time, with little in the way of expense.

Just my observation.

Good luck

David

 

[bugbear]

I only mention this as being relatively inexperienced with tuning hand tools .... I take comfort from the fact if a craftsman can have a highly tuned tool within 20 minutes maybe I can achieve the same result in a similar time, with little in the way of expense.

I merely point out the contradiction there.

More generally, I actively enjoy the process (and achievement) of tuning a plane
to its maximum potential, as opposed to only tuning it as far as needed
for a given task.

My workshop, for me, is a retreat and a solace, not a place of work.

BugBear

 

[wizard]

:shock: here we go

 

[Bluekingfisher]

I only mention this as being relatively inexperienced with tuning hand tools .... I take comfort from the fact if a craftsman can have a highly tuned tool within 20 minutes maybe I can achieve the same result in a similar time, with little in the way of expense.

I merely point out the contradiction there.

BugBear

Not at all, the fact that the process was made simple by the craftsman is exactly the point i was trying to get across, apologies if that wasn't clear to you?

Ok, so perhaps a little more time, maybe 30mins :wink:

 

[bugbear]

I only mention this as being relatively inexperienced with tuning hand tools .... I take comfort from the fact if a craftsman can have a highly tuned tool within 20 minutes maybe I can achieve the same result in a similar time, with little in the way of expense.

I merely point out the contradiction there.

BugBear

Not at all, the fact that the process was made simple by the craftsman is exactly the point i was trying to get across, apologies if that wasn't clear to you?

Ok, so perhaps a little more time, maybe 30mins :wink:

The latter is the (trivial, hopefully uncontroversial) point I was making.

BugBear

 

[wizard]

If you have nothing to do all day then spend hours sharpening and fiddling with it, then put it on the shelf with all your other shiny tool, when you get bored go on the computer and talk about it. this is good for you as we all need an interest in life. If it’s to earn money just a quick sharpen and get on with the job.

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

you two aren't married are you by any chance?

 

[Bluekingfisher]

Not in the slightest controversial, I was merely attempting to reiterate the simplicity of my initial point.

Perhaps I should have followed up by stating, inexperienced with hand plane tuning, not incapable.

David

 

[Bluekingfisher]

If you have nothing to do all day then spend hours sharpening and fiddling with it, then put it on the shelf with all your other shiny tool, when you get bored go on the computer and talk about it. this is good for you as we all need an interest in life. If it’s to earn money just a quick sharpen and get on with the job.

Exactly the point I was trying to make.

 

[Cheshirechappie]

Bluekingfisher - I think you make a perceptive point. After thirty years or so of amateur wood-butchery, I've been through the phases of 'why won't this plane do what the old craftsmens' planes do?', to reading up about plane tuning and spending hours lapping and fiddling, to the point now where if it does what it's supposed to, it's good enough.

My procedure with a new plane (or plane new to me, anyway) is as follows. Step 1 - take it apart and see that it's all there, and the adjustments work as they should. Clean it if needs be. Step 2 - sharpen the iron, bed the capiron to it. Step 3 - put it all back together, make sure the bits bed tight to each other and screws bed down true, and then test it out on some bits of scrap wood. If it does what it's supposed to, that's it. If it doesn't, identify and rectify faults.

Different planes need different levels of prissiness. A try plane will need to be flat enough to edge-joint two longish boards so that you can't see a gap between them. If it'll do that, it's flat enough - it doesn't need lapping. A smoothing plane needs to be set fine enough to take whispy-thin shavings and leave a polished surface, and if it will, it's flat enough. A jack plane doesn't need to be so prissy, since it's job is to hog off thickish shavings anyway. A shoulder plane needs the sole square to the sides and straight enough to leave a neat rebate. If a block plane will true up the end of a board and leave a smooth finish, it's good enough. These things can be determined by using the plane.

(There's absolutely nothing wrong with fettling, faffing, fitting customised handles, go-faster stripes and all the bells and whistles if that's your thing. But if you just want a plane to work wood, keep it simple.)

 

[Bluekingfisher]

Bluekingfisher - I think you make a perceptive point. After thirty years or so of amateur wood-butchery, I've been through the phases of 'why won't this plane do what the old craftsmens' planes do?', to reading up about plane tuning and spending hours lapping and fiddling, to the point now where if it does what it's supposed to, it's good enough.

My procedure with a new plane (or plane new to me, anyway) is as follows. Step 1 - take it apart and see that it's all there, and the adjustments work as they should. Clean it if needs be. Step 2 - sharpen the iron, bed the capiron to it. Step 3 - put it all back together, make sure the bits bed tight to each other and screws bed down true, and then test it out on some bits of scrap wood. If it does what it's supposed to, that's it. If it doesn't, identify and rectify faults.

Different planes need different levels of prissiness. A try plane will need to be flat enough to edge-joint two longish boards so that you can't see a gap between them. If it'll do that, it's flat enough - it doesn't need lapping. A smoothing plane needs to be set fine enough to take whispy-thin shavings and leave a polished surface, and if it will, it's flat enough. A jack plane doesn't need to be so prissy, since it's job is to hog off thickish shavings anyway. A shoulder plane needs the sole square to the sides and straight enough to leave a neat rebate. If a block plane will true up the end of a board and leave a smooth finish, it's good enough. These things can be determined by using the plane.

(There's absolutely nothing wrong with fettling, faffing, fitting customised handles, go-faster stripes and all the bells and whistles if that's your thing. But if you just want a plane to work wood, keep it simple.)

Very valid points you make, to me at least. The simple adage of keeping it simple works for me. One article I looked at recommended you lap the base of the frog and adjacent sole parts with valve grinding compound? I wondered why it needed to be so slick? a quick couple of strokes with a mill file was the method use by the pro.

 

[bugbear]

I recently watched a video where the pro craftsman took a plane (Stanley #4) new from the box, tuned it and was and taking waffer thin shavings within 20 minutes. This included flattening the sole, adjusting/tuning the frog, lapping and sharpening the blade and mating the chip breaker with the iron. All achieved with tools and accessories most of us would have in our workshops.

Since this thread is continuing, (and if the video is online) a link would be helpful. It sounds interesting.

BugBear

 

[Racers]

I like to make things perform the very best that they can, so frog lapping flattening etc are what I do, it's fun and passes the time.
On old planes these things can make a world of difference as the machining was very poor, would the same chap have the same results in the same time from a 1970's car boot Record/Stanley? I would think not.

Pete

 

[Bluekingfisher]

I recently watched a video where the pro craftsman took a plane (Stanley #4) new from the box, tuned it and was and taking waffer thin shavings within 20 minutes. This included flattening the sole, adjusting/tuning the frog, lapping and sharpening the blade and mating the chip breaker with the iron. All achieved with tools and accessories most of us would have in our workshops.

Since this thread is continuing, (and if the video is online) a link would be helpful. It sounds interesting.

BugBear

Sorry BB. unable to help with that one, The craftsman in question was Mario Rodriguez, presenting on a Taunton Books DVD, Hand Planes in the Workshop. (£7 Amazon)

Pete, I am sure you get immense amounts of pleasure from fine tuning planes etc, that of course is your prerogative. I was making the inquiry regards the necessity and benefits of taking the tuning to such levels.

If I had the time I too could find it relaxing, any time spent in the shop is pleasurable. Unfortunately for me I don't have the luxury of 'passing the time'. Perhaps one day.

 

[Racers]

And as I pointed out some old planes need lots more work then new ones.

Pete

 

[bugbear]

Sorry BB. unable to help with that one, The craftsman in question was Mario Rodriguez, presenting on a Taunton Books DVD, Hand Planes in the Workshop. (£7 Amazon)

Thanks for that; I was lucky enough to meet him at an Axminster show, long ago. Nice guy, and very skilled.

BugBear

 

[Bluekingfisher]

Sorry BB. unable to help with that one, The craftsman in question was Mario Rodriguez, presenting on a Taunton Books DVD, Hand Planes in the Workshop. (£7 Amazon)

Thanks for that; I was lucky enough to meet him at an Axminster show, long ago. Nice guy, and very skilled.

BugBear

I have to say it was my first introduction to him or his work. I did like his no nonsense approach to his work, made it appear simple for the layman. His workshop seemed a simple affair, at least by US standards, it appeared to be an addition to his house??

As a matter of interest, what was he detailing at the Axi show? or was he just a visitor?

 

[Bluekingfisher]

And as I pointed out some old planes need lots more work then new ones.

Pete

I don't doubt that for a minute Pete, some are likely to be in a sorry state and may need that kind of work done on them but would they need to lapped and ground to engine valve tolerances?

On another link I noted the contributor had polished the whole bottom half of the rear of the iron to a mirror finish, so not only was the blade sharp enough to shave with you could see yourself doing it. The professional approach was just to flatten and lightly strop a half inch or so from the base of the blade, the rest of it in his view was hidden behind the chip breaker anyway.

 

[Racers]

And as I pointed out some old planes need lots more work then new ones.

Pete

I don't doubt that for a minute Pete, some are likely to be in a sorry state and may need that kind of work done on them but would they need to lapped and ground to engine valve tolerances?

Go as far as you want to go is the answer, I guess.

Pete

 

[Bluekingfisher]

And as I pointed out some old planes need lots more work then new ones.

Pete

I don't doubt that for a minute Pete, some are likely to be in a sorry state and may need that kind of work done on them but would they need to lapped and ground to engine valve tolerances?

Go as far as you want to go is the answer, I guess.

Pete

Agreed.