Half Glazed Iroko Door

Senator · 30 Dec 2014

Hi y'all I'm going to be making a half glazed Iroko back door, now I know it's traditional to loose bead dg units from inside
but what do you all think is best for fail safe glazing as don't want any water getting through.
And if external glazing vented or not?
What is best glazing method?

blackrodd · 30 Dec 2014

A nice mould to help throw water off the woodwork outside
Proper glazing mastic would probably be the best route, apply the first coat of finish,to the door, then it's sealed.
Then the glazing unit, equally spacing the glass unit(s), and Cut the excess mastic after it has cured.
Iroko makes good external joinery, be careful of the dust and as you may be aware, its related to the teak family, very abrasive and soon dulls the keenest blades.

Regards Rodders

ColeyS1 · 31 Dec 2014

Have the beads on the outside. For good measure have atleast 15degree angle on your beads for the water to run off. Dont mitre the beads. Have the top and bottom ones going full width with the vertical ones cut in between

Mar_mite · 31 Dec 2014

I made an iroko half glazed door for my last place. I had a 45 degree bevel on the outside and beads on the inside. Fitted with silicone. Never a problem in the 4 years I lived there. And it took a lot of weather. I put a tiny bead of silicone around the panel at the bottom when I assembled it.

Senator · 31 Dec 2014

Thanks for responses great to discuss with other tradesman. Yes my gut feeling says beads outside and bottom bead rebated over glazing ledge hockey stick style and right across with sides beveled onto it.
Regarding glazing method it's either glazing tape both sides with neutral silicone in gap around unit or all bedded into silicone and outside beads pushed into the silicone also. Trouble with silicone is cutting any excess off after plus finishing stain or oil will not be compatable.
What are other opinions on this. The door will be in the weather.

RogerM · 31 Dec 2014

I've never had any trouble with 2mm double sided glazing tape. I set the edge of the tape just below the edge of the timber bead and then run a bead of either low modulus clear silicon, or clear CT1, along the top of the bead to form a perfect seal with the glass. I stand the sealed unit on 5mm plastic packers to keep it off the wood, and these are arranged in a "heel and toe" format so that the weight of the sealed unit is close to the hinge line rather than the other end, to minimise racking forces.