Half decent router table please?

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matt scarlett

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I've been to a couple of tool shops and most of them say that you're average router table really isn't to much. I'm looking for a router table to use with a TREND C191X1/2TC bit in particular. Or do you think i could do this with a Router?

I've looked at the likes of Festool and Incra table routers, but are there any recommendations for those who haven't won the lottery?
 
Wuffles":30hr6e94 said:
http://www.rutlands.co.uk/sp+price-crash-xact-deluxe-router-table+RTX2000 or get the one with the feather set.

Cheap, cheerful and pretty solid.

OK. sounds good and under my budget. Thanks.
 
Some of the best router tables are homemade. You end up with a table that's exactly what you want in terms of size, height and features, and the price is right :)

You can do a heck of a lot with the simplest setup and some of the busiest routing operations use the most basic tables you can imagine, literally just some type of sheet goods with a hole for the bit to poke through. Some don't even have a permanent fence. If you're mostly going to be routing profiles that's pretty much all you need, add a mount for a pin and you're in business. You can elaborate on it later as and when needed, adding an adjustable split fence, parallel mitre slots or whatever.
 
manufacturers spec sheet says that cutter is for stationary routers. That means a table. Do NOT play fast and loose with a router. If anything slips it does not take prisoners.

If you want a table only for a short while and or very limited use. A 2 ft square off cut of kitchen worktop and a couple of trestles is all you need.

If you want to continue with routers, You can add or improve on the worktop. I'm on my third rebuild in 18 months. None of them have cost me more than 30 quid in offcuts and ply. My table looks like a blue peter project, but it is fully functional and has features that incra want hundreds of pounds for.

One more time, DO NOT take chances with a router. You have been warned.
 
Trend Craft Pro Mk III is pretty good for the money. No volt on/off switch, metal insert is thick and doesn't flex, fences and shields are pretty good, dust extraction is OK. Comes with various accessories inc. the all important push stick. Numerous routers mount to it fine including Hitach, Elu, Trned, DeWalt. East to modify if yours doesn't fit.
 
I'm going to be using this Bit http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Trend-C191X1- ... 6016.l4276 it won't be used all the time, however as someone on the forum pointed out, it's to be used with a router table.... and i really don;t want to chance it with a plunge router

c191_nd.jpg
 
Just to say that the bench recommended by Wuffles is very decent, sure its dearer than knocking something up out of scrap... but it comes with a nice pre installed plate and fitted t bars / fence, I'm using mine with a Triton JOF001
 
That router bit definitely needs a table. A temporary one as described would do.

If you want to buy or build a better one, here's my experience for selection of system or design, based on an older Axminster table thatI've had for many years.

1. A router lift is extremely convenient. On the Axminster one, get some drinking straws too, to blow dust out of the vertical adjuster Allen socket!

2. The inset T tracks for the fence are handy but not essential.

3. The split fence, however, is very useful. It means you can set it up either for routing profiles like a spindle moulder, or for jointing edges by recessing the input side by the depth of the cut and setting the output side flush with the bit.

4. Mine does not have an enclosed box for the router itself. I would like one, with dust extraction built in. Mine gets shavings everywhere and is a pain to clean up.


5. Mine has shelves but no built-in cupboards or drawers. This would have been useful, as there is a large number of bits, tools and accessories that you need to store with the router.

The new Axminster one, http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-pr ... GwodhugH6Q looks pretty good though I can't see if they have sorted all of these issues.

Keith
 
I'd second making your own from something nice and flat. My particular bugbear is the phenolic insert plate; the bow on mine (a Trend) was sufficient that with my only having two hands, workpieces rocked up and down enought that grooves were never straight and rebates and housings were of varying depths.
 
plus 1 on the plate being metal. if youre starting from scratch, DONT buy a phenolic resin plate.
My kreg warped, and most other makes that I know of also warp under the weight of big routers.

Kreg sent a replacement without fuss, but its still resin. So I've fitted a 4mm alloy palte underneath the resin to stop this one sagging.

If I was starting from new now, I have seen for sale a stainless steel one that I would pay the extra for.
 
Matt

Please do not follow his example on lack of dust extraction, anyone that has that kind of diss-regard for his own lungs and those around him, can not be a good example to follow.

Back to your table, with that size of bit you will almost certainly need a fence to enable gradual forming of the profile in stages, trying to form the profile in one parse will lead to chatter marks at best and the piece flying across the room at worse, this can be done by height adjustment, but without a lift that is a long and laborious task.

Mike
 
Hi guys. Was thinking about buying a table also. Mostly because I can't be bothered to make one. However I'm feeling like I need to mix and match the tables out there to get the kind of table/accessories I want.

I love the Record RPMS-R-MK2 with the sliding table, but want the UJK type router lift (very pricey though). I think having to open up the table to adjust the router height, would annoy the pants off me. Also, I would like a table I can move about.

So I'm leaning towards making one.

Has anyone tried the Record?

Jonny
 
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